1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

gm280

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Okay here is todays efforts. While it really doesn't seems like much effort, it took a few cuts and tries to get it all worked out. And I am very pleased with the floor I ended up with. And NO it is not installed but merely laying there until I get other things worked out. Then it gets PBed in place...soon I hope! Plywood floor-1.JPG

Now I know what everybody is going to say, so let me preempt it by saying YES the front section is running the opposite direction to the other sections. And while it seem to go against what would be the strongest grain, this piece of plywood in four ply. The two outer plies run with the long length of the wood while the two inter plies run cross grain to the length of the sheet. So in this case either way is the exact same strength. OKAY, I didn't see it until I cut it out...sorry! :sorry: :( You have no idea how ill that made me. What I stated is true, but it doesn't follow my original pattern. As OCD as I can be, I may buy another sheet and change it...IDK :noidea:

Okay with that dispensed, Look at how I was able to make one long totally flat floor without a casting platform. That was what I was shooting for. Now the front platform will be merely a place to mount the trolling motor and make a nice dry storage area underneath. It is only about 20 inches or so from the end of the floor t the very front of the hull. I can easily live with that.
Plywood floor-2.JPG

Slightly different angle. Plywood floor-3.JPG

A shot from the transom to the front. Again a nice flat long floor...

I used a method of cutting the floor sections that seems to work very nicely. The very first piece I cut I actually made a cardboard pattern first. And while that is a great way to do things, It still took a few trimmings and tries and belt-sandings and more ties to get it like I wanted it. So for the second section I tried something a little different. I took a marker pen (Sharpies) and marked every six inches along the side of the hull. Then I measured the width at each six inch section and divided that reading in two and plotted that on the plywood from a center line. So both sides of the center line received the exact same width measurement mark. And after finishing that effort, I simply connected the marks and cut it out and in one trial fit, it was perfect. So much for cardboard templates for me now... Of course there are tons of way to accomplish things, this is just what I did.

Okay there is todays efforts. Oh! I also cut out the two seat bases but haven't sanded them or assembly them yet. That is tomorrow's starting work. As I contemplate changing that last piece of plywood, you all have a wonderful evening... :thumb:
 
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Woodonglass

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As I stated before, With your "SubStructure Grid" and the foam going underneath, I really don't think it's gunna matter which direction the plywood lays. It'll be a TANK!!!! Don't Take it out!!!! It's GOOD!!!!
 

sphelps

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I'm with Woody ! with all the stringers it ain't going nowhere ! The beginnings of a nice dance floor !!
 

gm280

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Today I finished cutting out the two seat bases (inside dimensions are 16" by 16") and sanded them and glued some of the sections together. I cut the base heights at 18", and with 1" for the actual seat swivel and 3 more inches for the actual seats themselves, that bring to total height to 22" inches. Now I know for fact that 22" is too high for both my wife and myself, but I did that on purpose. Once I have them preliminarily assembled, I can actually sit on them and then make the determination as to what real height I want them. And since they will be solid at that time but not installed yet, I can take them and with my table saw, cut them to the correct height easily by cutting one side and rolling it over for the next side and so on. Or I can cut a little off and sit in them again to see what I l like. Then after getting the correct seating height, I will router all the edges over with a 3/4" round over bit, do a final sanding and cover them inside and out with poly and 1708/CSM. Then it will be a snap to cut open the top sections for the piano hinges as well. I also made the backer plates to install on the inside where the four 1/4" X 20 bolts will come through. In order to break these seats and/or bases, you'd have to break the backer plates through the 3/4" top plates covered both sides with 1708 and poly. In other words, that isn't going to happen. I'll post pictures as I get them assembled so you all can see... I also cut out two side hull ends for the flooring section. As little as they are, they will stop any water intrusion into the foamed areas. I like this stage of this project because it seem to be going a lot faster now... Well that's all for today...

You all have a great evening :thumb:
 

gm280

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Okay I have some pictures and a little more update. I now have all the seat bases and tops cut out. And I started gluing the parts together as well. I am using Tite Bond III being how it worked so well on the main stringers. Here are some pictures; Seat-1.JPG

I setup my table saw to cut exactly 16" width. The I cut the 3/4" plywood lengthwise and turned it and cut it crosswise. That guarantees me a perfectly square 16" top. And while I had the table saw setup. I cut out both seat tops. Any time you are cutting many parts, always setup your equipment and make all the cuts you can from that setup. It saves time and you are guaranteed exact duplicate parts every time. I also cut the base sides. Seat-3.JPG

Here are the parts of one seat base waiting their turn to be sanded. I cut the side out of 1/2" plywood. Seat-4.JPG

I used 60 grit. Yea I know that seems pretty aggressive, but in an orbital sander not so much. Seat-5.JPG

Here are some sections glued and curing with clamps to keep them square. Seat-6.JPG

I have lots and lots on clamps. Seat-8.JPG

And while I was at it, I took the stainless steel swivels and drilled all the holes to attach them before any glue up. And that is because I can use my drill press and get straight through holes that will fit perfectly. I actually drew diagonal lines from one corner to the far counter. And when I positioned the swivels on top. the holes aligned with the lines with the factory slots in the swivels. That way I know the swivels are perfectly centered from every side. I verified that with measuring just to be sure. Then I took some ~ 1/8" inch tempered aluminum and drilled some backer plates to fit under the wood tops to kind of sandwich the wood between the swivel and the backer plate. That makes for a extremely strong seat that will not break out. I also rounded the corners so it doesn't try to cut into the wood and keeps anybody from cutting themselves if they run the hands across it for some reason. Seat-10.JPG

This is how it will look from the underside before the bolts and lock nuts are secured. Of course after all the wood parts are assembled, I will poly and CSM all sides with extra 1708 tabbing in all the corners and stress areas. They will be rock solid but with storage inside and being water tight as well... :thumb:
More to come...
 

gm280

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(continued)

I also cut out all the front supports to seal off the two outer sides of the floor and a support for the center section. Those will be PBed and tabbed as well. I also took a couple pictures of a few things I found helpful using polyester.
Items-1.JPG
This picture show a few things I use mixing polyester resin. You can see a very helpful MEKP bottle with a measuring top tube. If you are ever doing a lot of poly mixing, I highly suggest you buy one of these. There are about $10 dollars or so and it makes measuring MEKP a snap. The tube has measurements for MEKP on the tube. So when you pour out your resin, you simply squeeze the bottle and the MEKP fills up the tube until you stop squeezing it. Then you simply pour that into the resin. I love it... so quick and easy! Next is a little white stick looking thingy. Well you have to mix the poly with something. And I had a lot of these solid plastic trim sticks from rescreening our back porch. These are solid plastic trim for going over the screen seams. They come in ~1 1/2" widths. And all these cut of trim pieces, I took and cut them down the center. They make perfect mixing sticks... Use what you have! I also use them for mixing paint for spraying things. And of course the 3M 6700 series respirator. A must have to live through boat building if you are doing it inside a building. Don't short cut your lungs and go without. $20 dollars with vapor filters is a small amount to pay to protect your lungs! Next is an old coffee plastic containers. Yes I used all types of those things. I do have some marked measuring cups, but there are great for mixing poly as well. And if you keep them until the poly is cured, you can basically pull out the harden resin and reuse them again.
Items-2.JPG
If you look closely in this picture, you will see a yellow arrow pointing to a black line drawn on the side of the coffee container. That line was marked on there after I took 700millileters from a mixing cup and poured it in and marked these container. So now I can fill them up to that mark knowing I have 700ml of resin. So use things around your house and it will work and save a few dollars as well. Some will say that is being cheap. I say that is using your brain and being frugal. And amazingly enough these type of coffee containers will allow a 4" poly roller to fit inside with any problem. A win win in my book. And lastly, you see a standard set of safety glasses. I wear them religiously knowing how your eyes are a one time offering. You don't regrow them if you loose them... Enough said.

So until next update, you all have a wonderful day! :thumb:
 

gm280

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Today it rained so I worked on the seat bases, And even a seasoned woodworker can still learn things. As most anybody knows that has ever routered an y piece of wood, that the end grain is the touchiest areas to router because of tear-out. So you usually router those end grain sections first so any tear-out can be cleaned up with straight grain cuts. And you always run the router from left to right (facing the wood with the router) so the cutting bit doesn't walk on top of the wood like it will cutting right to left. Well when you build your boat seat boxes out of plywood, there is no such thing as end grain first because end grain it included in plywood. So I did the first route cuts left to right and saw pretty quickly that routering plywood is an animal. I did get a lot of tear-out! But all is not lost because I can and have cleaned it up pretty well. But that goes to show you that you can learn new things daily... Here are a few pictures of todays progress and hope the rain ends so I can get more work done.
Seat base (7).JPG
Well here are the two seat base/boxes one still in the clamps. Yes there are basically cubes with one area opened. Nothing fancy or unique.
Seat base (8).JPG
Between the belt sander and the orbital sander I cleaned them up. All the overflow glue and such are now gone and nice squared of sections to work with.
Seat base (9).JPG
Next comes the router and I routered all the edges (but the bottom) so there are nice and smooth and won't be sharpe corners to cut anybody. I used a 3/4" round-over bit.
Seat base 10.jpg
Here is one rounded over and one the hasn't been rounded over yet. Notice the tear-out along the top area on the right hand side towards the back on the rounded over one. :eek:
Seat base (5).JPG
I set them in the boat to get an idea how everything will setup. I also mixed up some PB and filled in any and all divots and tear-outs and whatever voids I found. When that cures they will get another good sanding and then be ready for poly and CSM and 1708. They look a bit large, but the seats will fit on top without and overhang of the bases to cause any leg interference, and they are still are too high. I purposely made then too high so I can cut them down for personal height for both my wife and I.

Until next time, everybody have a great evening... :thumb:
 

Woodonglass

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Next time you want to route plywood try this...Either Paint the edges with 50/50 water and glue mix and let dry overnite or tape em off with the old cheap Blonde masking tape. It has the strongest bond adhesive and will stick the strongest. Use a paint roller to roll it down hard and firm and then route the edge. I think you'll like the results with either method. The tape gets you there a bit faster.;)
 

gm280

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Next time you want to route plywood try this...Either Paint the edges with 50/50 water and glue mix and let dry overnite or tape em off with the old cheap Blonde masking tape. It has the strongest bond adhesive and will stick the strongest. Use a paint roller to roll it down hard and firm and then route the edge. I think you'll like the results with either method. The tape gets you there a bit faster.;)

Actually Wood, I routed the second seat base right to left. I know that is not the usual way to use a router, but it worked perfectly without any tear-out. You just have to work with it a bit slower because it does try to walk on you, but a few passes and it's clean without any tear-out. I was going to put that info in my latest post, but forget too. But thanks also with the tape idea option. I'll have to try that as well if I ever route plywood again.
 

gm280

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Nice work ! Are they gunna double as storage ?

Yes they are and that is the reason for them being so large. I'm trying to squeeze in as much storage as possible without interfering with a person's leg room. However I have yet to determine whether they will hinge on the tops or sides. The actual width of these bases are just a little narrower then the actual seats going on top. And so as a person turns their seat the edges will not interfere with them as well... At least that is my initial plan...we'll see when I get the seats installed on top. Either way I will be using stainless steel piano type hinges. But it will be a while yet before these get installed. I have lots of other things to still work out before that installation takes place.
 

gm280

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Although I haven't posted any updates in a while, there has been things being done. However, I had to take a few days to work on my neighbor's RV Onan Emerald Plus 4000 watt generator. Being how he is not in very good medical condition, I get to do all his fix and repairs for him. And I was tasked to replace the belts on his lawn mower and fix the generator that consumed at least two days of work. The mower was interesting changing the belts (all by myself) and fighting the huge tension springs to accomplish that. Now the mower runs so he got his son to mower the grass... YEA! The Onan generator is its own beast that I now know more about then I every in my wildest days ever wanted too. And the carb still needs worked over and I yet to do that. But it is come and real soon. He only has one lung because cancer took the other one and now he is on oxygen 24/7 and not doing real good at that. But he wants to RV and his wife drives it around. So I have to get the generator fixed so his oxygen accumulator will work where ever they go. So work on the boat has taken a little break.

However, I did get the two seat bases for the boat seat near finished with cutting them to the correct height and coated them in poly and the inside with poly and 1708 thus far. I will try to finish covering them tomorrow and then they need to be cut for the piano hinges to go on next. I also coated the center section of the stringer/bulkhead area to give it more waterproofing capability. So once I lay out the last of the wire tubing for the seat bases and live well wires, I can close the floor up for final and mix and pour the foam. And I am working on the front platform for the trolling motor section and storage section. No pictures because they look like the last ones I posted. But I will get more as soon as there is some different to see. Just wanted to let you know I am still working the project...

You all have a great day! :thumb:
 

sphelps

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That's a very kind gesture helping your neighbor out . I'm sure he is very grateful ...
Looking forward to see how your gunna start putting things together .. Been running ideas through my head for the Manatee . So many ways to do things it's kinda hard to make up my mind to run with it ...
 

gm280

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That's a very kind gesture helping your neighbor out . I'm sure he is very grateful ...
Looking forward to see how your gunna start putting things together .. Been running ideas through my head for the Manatee . So many ways to do things it's kinda hard to make up my mind to run with it ...

Yea Sam, everything is laying out nicely and today I actually cut out the face section for the platform and storage section on the front of the hull where the trolling motor will attach. Boats are so different then any usual woodwork project because there is not a straight flat boxy section on them. Seems everything has to be custom cut with interesting angles and multiple trial fittings and sanding and shaping until it works. But it is getting closer daily. I am now at a point to layout the gauge section to insert in that face panel I just cut out... I'll post pictures later... I fully understand your thought patterns with your boat as well. Seem we all do that as we custom build out boat projects. Heck, if you didn't day dream about how you are going to do things, it wouldn't be interesting. That's all part of the fun...

Hoping you all have a fantastic day! :thumb:
 

Woodonglass

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Good on ya fer helpin yer neighbor!!! That's what it's all about!!! Sounds like your also making progress on the boat. It's ALL good!!!
 

gm280

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Well a little verbal update. I bought a 52 quart Igloo cooler yesterday in hopes of turning it into my live well. I wanted something bigger then the standard 40 quart but not so big that it consumed the entire hull floor space and carry around so much water weight. The 40 quarts cooler was a bit short in length, like my fish are really that long anyways! :facepalm: Then I saw the Igloo 52 quart cooler and measured it and it seem about perfect for the conversion. But oddly enough the prices for such cooler varied from $25 dollars from at Academy Sports to $158.81 from some vender on Ebay. But of course that was with shipping also... SMH! So many places offering that exact same Igloo cooler (same product number even) and the cost varied so widely. Makes one really think! Most places were asking around $45 for the same thing. So anyway, now I have the base for the live well conversion and I need to built the sides and even a comfortable top to match the seats. And install a drain, a sprayer bar at the top and an overflow drain as well. So that is my next sub-project towards this boat project. I'll post some pictures of how I accomplish this conversion as I go. I also ordered three 6' stainless steel piano hinges for the different rod boxes and seat storages and front storage openings. When they come in, I can cut the seat bases and install them. Everything is look up now...

You all have a wonderful day...you deserve it! :thumb:
 

kcassells

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GM,
Looking Great! One day at a time is how I see it. Also Thank you for your support! I'll be looking forward to your Live Well set up.
KC or as some say KFC lol! :joyous:
 

gm280

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GM,
Looking Great! One day at a time is how I see it. Also Thank you for your support! I'll be looking forward to your Live Well set up.
KC or as some say KFC lol! :joyous:

Ha thanks KC. Yes some times things go fast and other times it like nothing gets done.

Well here are a few pictures to prove I am still working on the boat project. Between weekly yard work and the neighbor's repairs (and I still have to rebuild his carb too yet), I do get things done...some times! :facepalm: Odd it doesn't seem like very long ago I was waiting for warmer weather to arrive so the poly mixes would kick correctly. Now the heat is amazing already this spring. We've had a few 90 plus degree days already and the humidity is there with it too... :eek: I actually like a little cooler weather but I have to take what I get. Well I have a few pictures to show the seat bases setup in the boat with the live well cooler I bought to convert. Looks like there will be plenty of foot space for both the captain and the first mate. SO that is a good thing. I also polyed the underside of the floor sections with poly and CSM. After I get some more parts in, I hope to get this floor installed and the seat bases as well. Always seem like I'm waiting on parts! I also bought a roll of 1/2" polyethylene tubing. Reason? So I can use it to run the wires to both seat bases, the live well, front storage and the rod boxes. That way if there ever is a need to change wires, it will be so easy to pull wires through a smooth continuous tubing like that. No wires laying loose to get messed up, cut and/or broken. I know from owning other boats how totally messy their wiring was. I'm trying to make sure this hull is done better. Yea a little over kill, but certainly worth it if you ever need too.

IMG_0001.JPG
Here is a shot looking from the transom towards the bow. You can see that roll of 1/2" smooth tubing there as well. At this time the seat bases have been covered in poly and 1708 on the inside and 1708 only on the very top on the outside.
IMG_0002.JPG
Second shot with the cooler lid closed to show the room I will have.
IMG_0003.JPG
A side shot to see the possible layout. I may move it back from the front seat just a little more. But I want the back seat to have ample room without any obstructions for your feet.
IMG_0004.JPG

This is the mid-section of the floor with the poly and CSM just applied. Notice all those knots on the bottom. Yea really great plywood. But I did mix up some PB and filled in every imperfection even though it will never ever be seen when installed.
IMG_0005.JPG
This is the transom area floor section. Not as many knots to fill in this section. You can see the cut out for the bilge area. Amazing how much poly it took. I think for those two floor sections I used about 1500 ml... The first 5 gallons of resin seemed to last a really long time. But the second 5 gallon is going really quickly now. I only have one more 5 gallon container left. Hope I bought enough... :nevreness:

Well I posted this to show I am still working on the boat. Yes other real life things come into play, but I am still pushing this project along as well...

Until next time, everybody have a great day... :thumb:
 
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