Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Jul 18, 2011
Nice and clean under those ribs now!
Been running the roads again today, so no boat work.Just add up the layers and then allow for a proper bucktail for the solids. I can't remember right now the exact amount needed but .125 min is ringing a bell for a proper bucktail.
Personally I would only do a .080 outside patch rather than adding thinner inside and outside, especially if your thinking about putting anything under a rib. In that case it would be .080 + .090 + .090 for patch, hull and rib with .125 for buck tail = .385.
Yes on 7/16" solids, they are .437 which gives you some fudge room for 5200 and gaps that ribs can create.
I like to have a couple different lengths of rivets, just in case. It depends how much you want to spend. It just stinks reordering and waiting. I think they are about $15 for a bag of 100 from jay-cee.I really need to order rivets.
The boy only has 2 days of school left and we'll soon be working hard on the Chief to get it going. I have to allow for delivery times in my planning.
I have a couple of questions that I need to have answered before I can begin ordering rivets and then patching.
QUESTION 1: What thickness should I use for the aluminum patches? I was thinking that .060 should be plenty, because the original sheet is still in place other than where the little holes are. And that original sheet will be "sandwiched" between two new patch sheets and buttered with 3M 5200, plus the little holes will be filled with JB MarineWeld.
What say y'all? Or am I being too "thick" headed? Nyuk, nyuk. My neighbor buddy says I'm overthinking... again!
From Watermann's Rivets section:
Hull sides .080
Bottom and Ribs: .090
Gunnels and bow cover .065
QUESTION 2: Before I order rivets, I'd like to know if I can use the 7/16" length for 2-layer sections as well as the 3-layer sections. Or would that be too long? And I'll have some places where it's 4 layers thick.
Hahaha! That's it exactly!Ah yeah the aroma of corrosion as it hits the air, sorta like a combination of dirty gym socks and stinky cheese.
Yeah, I started out that way, then things changed. Right now I'm not sure I'll be able to order any from the original vendor. I got a reply asking me to "take a picture of my original battery" so that a decision could be made. Uhhh.. I ordered rivets, not batteries. I sent a correction to the seller but no reply yet. Again.I like to have a couple different lengths of rivets, just in case. It depends how much you want to spend. It just stinks reordering and waiting. I think they are about $15 for a bag of 100 from jay-cee.
Thanks WM!That sanding is my worst nightmare. for some reason it's nothing but dread for me. Ahh to be young and able to sit like him and run a power tool without the hands becoming numb.
Moving forward, the clean up and repairs always take the longest, looking good!
Yow! I totally missed that safety violation! I'm normally very strict about safety. Thanks for the alert!I love that you are doing this as a father/son project! Not really my business, but you should consider some safety glasses at the least. My dad got a piece of wire wheel in his eye once. +1 for the hearing protection. Eyes, ears, and respiratory are the big 3. I cringe at the sandals, and no cut proof gloves, but stitches aren't that big of deal.
Yes, I'd read that the Coat-it is thicker. I plan on using Gluvit as the primary for getting down deep into the hull crevices. The Coat-it will be used for shallower stuff.Having used both epoxy sealers I can say that the slightly thicker Coat-it did NOT completely seal the keel section of the Seafarer. I can only surmise that it just wasn't thin enough to get down in the narrow gaps. It did work well on the seams because of the lip allowing it to fill in the seam completely. I taped them off so the run mess could be just be peeled off while still tacky.