Stripping paint is a drag man. It always gets me guessing if the expense of soda blasting is worth it ya know...
It still looks like you are hours ahead using that stripper instead of other means, and got to bare aluminum on most of it......
Did ya mix with flour? It allows you to put a WAAAAY thicker coat on... made a huge difference for me... also don't know what the temp in your garage is, but about 60F or greater seems to be the magic number. I have noticed a difference if it is cooler.
Try a section without the plastic, but with the flour and goop it on thicker than you would think necessary --- think icing on cake! If you can't see the boat hull, it's good.
Just some thoughts for you to experiment with that worked well for me.
Jim
The spot near the stern cleaned up nice, for a couple of feet anyway. Hope round two does the trick on the rest.
Do you have a chemical dependency? The water crud theory will be proved/disproved when you get to the sides.
Nice work Glen. You sure make that look easy from here.
Breakin' out the big guns! Lookin' good glen!
Thanks Guys, CJ I got a fridge full of cold beer and an extra scrapper if you want to come up and have a go at it.:lol:
Looks like you are down to some serious business!! Yes, beer is mandatory but I'm not sure I can relate to the scraper Not sure which is the worse of the 2 evils, stripping or sanding. Neither one is too appealing. I guess the real question is cost vs time ...... ?cheaper to hand sand, spot prime then paint ? (time consuming) or ?strip, total prime, then paint? (more cost) ?? I opted for the hand sand and man that took a lot of time, even with an orbital for the larger areas.
Hey JB, I just ordered some rivets and a couple of sets from the U.S. can't find a decent supplier of solid ones up here!! Should a guy be using the hard or soft ones?
Per RivetsOnline (which is Jay-Cee sales & rivet inc) the soft alloy will give me the best results (easy to drive) and be strong enough to do what I need them to on a vintage aluminum boat. At RivetsOnline, that's the 1100F alloy. Their tech also told me if I want to dress the shank instead of mushrooming it over, I need to watch online videos & learn how to make it look similar to how the original rivets did, not an easy task.
If I can find a bucking bar w/ a cupped indention, it might help to start the rivet rounding over instead of looking like a flattened out mushroom...
Looks like I need to start practicing....................
In case you miss it, since you asked:
Glen, maybe you need to contact Interlux or Pettit about selling em that lake goop for use in formulating their bottom paints?
spherical grinding points are cheap and easy to find, and would make creating a cupped end for the bar a piece of cake