1975 StarCraft Mariner build "The Unicorn"

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The John

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good evening,
It’s been a bit as I had a bear hunt and Memorial Day plus a two week vacation and starting a new job. I am not sure why I am tired… 😉.

happy early Father’s Day especially to those who aren’t fathers but excel at that role.

Got the transom painted and getting ready to start the decking process. I’m going to make the initial cuts based off the old decking. I know I will need to modify it as I will have all the hull supports in. Can I get a few tips on cutting out the decking? I’m using 3/4 exterior rated. I plan on cutting the soles out and then fitting them to the hull. Then I will glue and staple the vinyl to each piece. I don’t want to do one piece as I want to be able to take these up if needed
(using stainless screws and cut washers to hold the sole down).
I also got my nav light painted up, waiting for the chrome to cure before adding some clear.
Did a bunch of other random stuff were all aware of

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SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
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Suggestions per your request:

Just double checking that exterior rated is not pressure treated for you. BCX will do the job. Pressure treated will eat your boat.

Don't use screws to secure the deck. You need to use rivets. Screws have a tendency to back out and loosen over time.

Even though you may have the previous boards still, double check the width. I found the boards were about an inch short. Not sure if that was by design or not, but I adjusted and haven't had an issue.

SHSU
 

The John

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Transom is in despite 100* temps. Forward progress. It’s going to be 114* today so we’ll see what gets done 75BB4D98-CCF9-4A6B-BC19-1EDBA86DB907.jpeg
 

SHSU

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You going to use Gluvit/Coat It as added insurance?

SHSU
 

SHSU

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How you going to secure the decking?

SHSU
 

The John

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How you going to secure the decking?

SHSU
I am going to use cut washers/screws, I put a lot of thought into which way to go. I know a lot (if not most) of you prefer to use rivets but most of my experience is with screws and cut washers on boats and I am going to stick with that.
I am going to use SS #14 self drilling screws. I will report back on how it works out using this method (and how many times I have to retighten).
 

Moserkr

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Im wondering if you could get some blue loctite on those screws in hopes that you do not have to retighten. Also may help avoid the potential future rust issue by sealing the bond too, since Id guess those are steel screws.
 

The John

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Im wondering if you could get some blue loctite on those screws in hopes that you do not have to retighten. Also may help avoid the potential future rust issue by sealing the bond too, since Id guess those are steel screws.
I was planning on using some loctite on them, a friend did that to his and has had minimal movement on his welded boat.

The screws are stainless steel so no rust (hopefully), but this boat will be used in the ocean/bays/Columbia river.
 

The John

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Floor is in, splash well is almost complete. Wiring and fit out are underway. B2965620-A294-4291-A4C5-C92A1885D995.jpeg
 

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SHSU

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How did the screws work out for you? Any issues with the install of the floor?

SHSU
 

The John

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How did the screws work out for you? Any issues with the install of the floor?

SHSU
No issues, in fact it saved my butt as I forgot to run the transducer cable.
I like it so far but don’t have it fully screwed down yet, I will once the electrical is done.
 

Alumarine

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Did you use pan head screws with the lock washers and did you use a flat countersink bit beforehand or just run them in?

I like that idea for areas that might need to be accessed.
 

The John

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Did you use pan head screws with the lock washers and did you use a flat countersink bit beforehand or just run them in?

I like that idea for areas that might need to be accessed.
I used cut washers and self drilling flat head screws (see the below snip). I drilled a pilot hole to ensure I got through to aluminum, then ran the bolt through.

For the moment they don't have threadlocker on them, but they will once things get finalized.

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dingbat

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The screws are stainless steel so no rust (hopefully), but this boat will be used in the ocean/bays/Columbia river.
The only "stainless" steel when used in saltwater is 316 Stainless steel.
304 stainless will "rust" in short order in a marine (saltwater) environment.
 

The John

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The only "stainless" steel when used in saltwater is 316 Stainless steel.
304 stainless will "rust" in short order in a marine (saltwater) environment.
Yep, my boat will be used in the ocean/bays but will be washed down afterward. 80% of its use will be in fresh. I appreciate you pointing that out regardless as not everyone knows that.
 

dingbat

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Yep, my boat will be used in the ocean/bays but will be washed down afterward. 80% of its use will be in fresh. I appreciate you pointing that out regardless as not everyone knows that.
Unfortunately, washing doesn't prevent staining. I was religious about washing my first boat after use. Didn't take long for rust stains to begin appearing out from under rail stanchions, joints in the hand rail, heads of screws, etc. Anywhere moisture was trapped for any length of time.

My current boat is 316 SS top to bottom. Some of the bedding under the rail stanchions needs to be replaced. Starting to see a bit of staining around the base of the railing even with 316 hardware
 

The John

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Unfortunately, washing doesn't prevent staining. I was religious about washing my first boat after use. Didn't take long for rust stains to begin appearing out from under rail stanchions, joints in the hand rail, heads of screws, etc. Anywhere moisture was trapped for any length of time.

My current boat is 316 SS top to bottom. Some of the bedding under the rail stanchions needs to be replaced. Starting to see a bit of staining around the base of the railing even with 316 hardware
I have had great luck with neutralizers in the past, but time will tell.
 
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