1975 StarCraft Mariner build "The Unicorn"

[The John]

There you go, that stuff is a powerful rot deterrent. Remember the flats will only take so much as the glue layer is a barrier to any sealant, the edges are key.

Yep, I have more coats on the edges than the flat parts. Currently one side is drying with Varnish on it. Once its cured Ill flip it and do the other side.

Yesterday was fun, ran and picked up a new to me 1990 100hp Mariner (oil injected). Now to find new cables and procure a new steering system (old cables are shot).

Any recommendation on where to look to confirm what cables are needed for the control cables? I have been looking around but havent ran into anything that points to a specific cable. (currently looking at a

Teleflex CCX179.​

 

[Watermann]

Yep, I have more coats on the edges than the flat parts. Currently one side is drying with Varnish on it. Once its cured Ill flip it and do the other side.

Yesterday was fun, ran and picked up a new to me 1990 100hp Mariner (oil injected). Now to find new cables and procure a new steering system (old cables are shot).

Any recommendation on where to look to confirm what cables are needed for the control cables? I have been looking around but havent ran into anything that points to a specific cable. (currently looking at a

Teleflex CCX179.​

There are 2 different types of control cables depending on which set of controls you have. The connection on the controls are different between Gen 1 and Gen 2 but the motor connection is the same. Gen 1 is what you posted above, they have a barrel on the control end same as motor end where the Gen 2 has no barrel, the cable has a raised section that is captured in a slot on the controls.

 

[The John]

There are 2 different types of control cables depending on which set of controls you have. The connection on the controls are different between Gen 1 and Gen 2 but the motor connection is the same. Gen 1 is what you posted above, they have a barrel on the control end same as motor end where the Gen 2 has no barrel, the cable has a raised section that is captured in a slot on the controls.

awesome, thanks for the info!

 

[The John]

awesome, thanks for the info!

Adding some bracing and replacing some missing rivets using my M12 riveter. Super easy and smooth.
And since y’all like pictures

 

[SHSU]

I love the excuse to get new tools for projects

SHSU

 

[The John]

New (to me) outboard ready to hang.

 

[SHSU]

What kind of merc?

SHSU

 

[The John]

Transom is in, JB Weld is curing over the major corrosion areas. I’m going to put a plate of aluminum over the non-painted area using a copious amount of 5200 (that is after marking and drilling the required holes to mount the main and the splash-well drains).

 

[The John]

What kind of merc?

SHSU

100hp mariner.

 

[Watermann]

100hp mariner.

Looks like a 90s model, be sure to do all the needed maintenance on it. On my 95 115 I replaced all the fuel / oil lines, fuel pump and accelerator pump kits, carb cleaning with new gaskets, link n sync procedure, complete water pump kit and last year the shift shaft seal started leaking so it got replaced. Great motors if maintained and kept in working order.

 

[BOYS & TOYS]

When I bought my Starcraft it came with a 1999 125hp that didn't work well. I purchased a factory manual and went through all the settings and cleaned the carbs. Best book purchase ever The 2+2 mercury design is a strange idea. I mostly like the engine but find the point when the other 2 cylinders engage is often around cruising speed in rough water. This makes it hard to maintain the optimal speed.
Full throttle and idle are usually fine.

 

[The John]

Looks like a 90s model, be sure to do all the needed maintenance on it. On my 95 115 I replaced all the fuel / oil lines, fuel pump and accelerator pump kits, carb cleaning with new gaskets, link n sync procedure, complete water pump kit and last year the shift shaft seal started leaking so it got replaced. Great motors if maintained and kept in working order.

have a recommendation on a shop manual?

 

[BOYS & TOYS]

have a recommendation on a shop manual?

I picked mine from the local Mercury dealer. Expensive but worth it.
Cheap aftermarket manuals aren't as detailed.

 

[SHSU]

Here is the link to what Iboats have. I got a SELCO for my 1974/1974 70 HP Evinrude. It did the trick for me, but I did wonder if there were more detailed like @BOYS & TOYS mentioned

http://ww2.iboats.com/Boat-Motor-Repair-Manuals/dm/view_id.1

SHSU

 

[The John]

also side question, anyone have an idea on replacing the nails that used to hold the splash well cap on (the aluminum U around the transom/splashwell)? Looking at using some stainless nails, but dont know if there is a better option for something so small.

 

[The John]

@SHSU and @BOYS & TOYS thank you! ill pick up the seloc and go from there.

 

[Moserkr]

Hmmm... my splashwell cap U piece had stainless screws that looked pretty original. Not sure whos is right now lol. Nails do not seem right to me though.

 

[The John]

Hmmm... my splashwell cap U piece had stainless screws that looked pretty original. Not sure whos is right now lol. Nails do not seem right to me though.

Mine we’re definitely s’nails, but not sure that was original. I’m not stuck on original but want to make sure it looks good.

 

[Watermann]

have a recommendation on a shop manual?

I downloaded the Merc shop manual in PDF, much easier to search and print off the pages you need. The pages always get some kind of oil or grease on them so with the print outs you can just toss when done if not needed.

 

[SHSU]

Mine we’re definitely s’nails, but not sure that was original. I’m not stuck on original but want to make sure it looks good.

Mine had nails as well. Because of my new design of my cap, I decided not to use any nails or screws. The motor holds down the cap and the end caps do it as well. Plus a liberal amount of 5200 along the entire top

SHSU