1974 Starcraft 21’ Holiday

[Crankerbait]

I made mounting plates from thin sheet aluminum that I mounted the bilge pump bases to. I then riveted the plates to the rear most rib. I attached the pic that shows these best.

I like it. I was imagining something similar. I want to get them as low as possible but also want to have access to the drain hole at the base of the rib.

 

[Crankerbait]

Supports are in! Got one section of floor fitted as well hopefully get the rest of the floor fitted this weekend.

 

[Watermann]

That will for sure help with deck mounting and should keep rib end cracks from forming.

On the bilge pump I did this in my SS.

 

[classiccat]

Nice chine supports & patches...a hull after my own heart !!

 

[Crankerbait]

Both bilge pumps are mounted. Floor is cut and fitted. We are getting the first coat of old timers sealer on them today. How many coats of sealer do I realistically need? We will be wrapping each piece in Vinyl we picked up from Defender.

 

[SHSU]

We are getting the first coat of old timers sealer on them today. How many coats of sealer do I realistically need?

2-4 coats depending on how thick you want it.

Which vinyl did you go for? Nautolex Shark?

SHSU

 

[Crankerbait]

2-4 coats depending on how thick you want it.

Which vinyl did you go for? Nautolex Shark?

SHSU

Yep, we went with Nautolex, storm grey.

 

[Watermann]

2 good coats of OTF should be good.

Double pumps, I find the bilge pump to be the least used device in my trailered boat. Only time mine runs is when I check it before heading to the water.

 

[Crankerbait]

2 good coats of OTF should be good.

Double pumps, I find the bilge pump to be the least used device in my trailered boat. Only time mine runs is when I check it before heading to the water.

I tend to agree. We plan to have this boat out on the ocean doing some near shore fishing. Plus we’ll occasionally moor the boat when we camp in the summer. I knew I wanted one on a float switch and I figured a second pump is cheap insurance especially because we won’t be adding foam floatation.

 

[Crankerbait]

Don’t have a lot of progress but a small update. It been cold and wet here (usually in the 40s). I was afraid paint and glue would not cure properly at those temperatures. I snagged a wood stove from my dad’s basement and installed it in my shop. My shop is uninsulated but the stove seems to keep things at a workable level.


I was able to get some of the floors wrapped and installed.


I got the transom in place and bent some aluminum to cap the transom. The pieces are not perfect and not attached. I’m still trying to figure out how or if I want to attach them together and to the boat.

 

[BWR1953]

When I added the transom cap to my Kingfisher, I slathered the transom with 3M 5200 and glued it down. Then, I drilled small holes through the aluminum and about 1/2" into the wood. Next, I filled those holes with 5200 using a syringe and then used stainless finishing nails to secure the cap. Worked for me.

 

[BWR1953]

When I added the transom cap to my Kingfisher, I slathered the transom with 3M 5200 and glued it down. Then, I drilled small holes through the aluminum and about 1/2" into the wood. Next, I filled those holes with 5200 using a syringe and then used stainless finishing nails to secure the cap. Worked for me.

Duh. I forgot something. I hadn't had my coffee when I made this post earlier.

I used the finishing nails on the sides of the aluminum cap, as well as along the top. Plus, at the end of the cap, where the transom cap meets the sides of the hull, I used long stainless wood screws.

I hope I didn't forget anything else.

 

[SHSU]

If the cap is welded as one piece, then glueing it down and keep the ends under the end caps should be enough. Remember that you will have a engine mounted over it. That is all I did for mine and still holding strong.

SHSU