1974 Starcraft 21’ Holiday

[SHSU]

JB water weld works good, or JB weld with a backing plate for the holes. As for Fiberglass on the transom, usually 2 or three is all you need. Just make sure to account for the extra thickness of the fiberglass build up when cutting your transom.

SHSU

 

[MNhunter1]

JB water weld works good, or JB weld with a backing plate for the holes.

I've used the JB water weld and it works good. When I have a lot of holes to cover over flat surfaces, I tend to lean towards MarineTex and tape up the topside/visible side of the hole with some wax paper to reduce the amount of sanding needed. The JB you can grab and use as "kneaded" (see what I did there) whereas the MT is typically mixed in a larger batch for multiple holes and spread on with a putty knife or similar. And yes, use a backing plate on any of the larger holes as mentioned b SHSU.

Either way, depending on the paint and how good you are at finish sanding/prep, I always seem to still be able to see where the holes were on the large, flat panels like the bow cover. I used the epihanes beads(credit to Watermann) mixed in with the paint for the final coat on my current boat for the gunnels and bow cap and it really helped to hide any imperfections and gave it some texture/non-skid. My last boat I covered the same with Nautolex and didn't even bother patching the smaller holes.

 

[BWR1953]

...The JB you can grab and use as "kneaded" (see what I did there) ...

 

[Crankerbait]

More progress, we got the transom skin on, most of the interior hull cleaned up and made a new Z channel for the base of the transom. The old Z channel was cracked and corroded. We ended up using 1 1/2”x 1/8” angled, T6 aluminum. We cut two lengths and riveted them together in opposing directions to recreate the Z channel. The bottom section of the transom feels like it will be solid. I still feel we will need additional support where the 115 motor mounts at the top of the transom. Thoughts on this? We plan to repair and reuse the original splash well, but that only seems to provide additional support about half way between the bottom and top of the transom. Will that be sufficient? I thought about using a piece of aluminum C-channel on the inside of the transoms, having the upper mounting bolts of the motor going through the C-channel to hold it the transom. The C-channel would be horizontal across the transom at the level of the top bolts. Is that unnecessary? Is it possible to make the transom too rigid which would put too much stress on the seems where the sides and transoms meet?

 

[Watermann]

More progress, we got the transom skin on, most of the interior hull cleaned up and made a new Z channel for the base of the transom. The old Z channel was cracked and corroded. We ended up using 1 1/2”x 1/8” angled, T6 aluminum. We cut two lengths and riveted them together in opposing directions to recreate the Z channel. The bottom section of the transom feels like it will be solid. I still feel we will need additional support where the 115 motor mounts at the top of the transom. Thoughts on this? We plan to repair and reuse the original splash well, but that only seems to provide additional support about half way between the bottom and top of the transom. Will that be sufficient? I thought about using a piece of aluminum C-channel on the inside of the transoms, having the upper mounting bolts of the motor going through the C-channel to hold it the transom. The C-channel would be horizontal across the transom at the level of the top bolts. Is that unnecessary? Is it possible to make the transom too rigid which would put too much stress on the seems where the sides and transoms meet?

I added brackets to strengthen the stern corners of my SS, they bolt through the transom and are solid riveted on the sides. The V5 models don't have the channel for the transom to rest in or side brackets, the transom wood is merely bolted flat to the skin.

 

[Crankerbait]

Figured out how to upload some pictures, here are a few for reference.

I’m planning to get the two pieces of transom together this afternoon, should I apply a thin layer of epoxy to both pieces of plywood prior to applying the thickened epoxy?

 

[Watermann]

Oh nice looking new skin she's sporting!

 

[SHSU]

So pretty!!!!! Like the skin and remember all the 5200 with every rivet. lol

For its 2 cents... Internet suggests adding epoxy to prevent the wood from absorbing it all prior to glue up, but then I would want to apply my thickened epoxy when its still tacky so you get the chemical bond.

I just used Titebond III and worked fine for me with no pre soak of glue. Just make sure you have a lot of clamps/weight/or screws when you stick it together.

SHSU

 

[Crankerbait]

Did a leak test and found very few leaks. Got the boat moved in the shop and flipped. Went to work on several rib ends that that needed some patches.

We then got the boat out of the shop and sanded it down, gave it a wash, and we are prepped for paint. We will hopefully get our first coat of primer on the bottom tomorrow.

 

[SHSU]

Nothing like a Turtled hull. You going to use Gluvit/Coat it on the rivets/seams to help seal it?

SHSU

 

[Crankerbait]

Nothing like a Turtled hull. You going to use Gluvit/Coat it on the rivets/seams to help seal it?

SHSU

Yep, just got it ordered. Plan to do that when we get it right side up.