1974 reinell cuddy restore

[kcassells]

Most just foamed the tank in for it was the thing to do at the time. Typically not structural, just easier to fill the crap voids they made at a production level.
Lots of ways to do it without foam contacting the aluminum.

 

[Woodonglass]

I am not a proponent of Foaming in fuel cells. Temp changes Will cause condensation and therefore oxidation of the aluminum. The foam CAN be structural but that's NOT always the case. It's primary function id flotation for the hull in case of a catastrophic failure. Here's some great info on tank installation..

​​​​​​​Fuel Tank Installation

 

[froggy1150]

So now I am undecided again. Was going to epoxy sealcoat tank and foam In. It did last since 1974 with not much protection this way. Also on a side note.... why would someone have drilled two holes thru transom just above bunk. One each side. Went thru to foam. Just dumb

 

[alldodge]

Think someone wanted to know if there was water soaked foam in there

 

[kcassells]

So now I am undecided again. Was going to epoxy sealcoat tank and foam In. It did last since 1974 with not much protection this way. Also on a side note.... why would someone have drilled two holes thru transom just above bunk. One each side. Went thru to foam. Just dumb

Those holes are probably for eqt. like fish tracker etc...But you are right if installed inproperly they can be destructive.
Here's another discussion on install. Tried to pm with no luck,
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm

 

[mickyryan]

when i redid my stringers and deck i pre coated all stringers, bulkheads completely then i wrapped them and tabbed them inside boat, for decking i did same completely wrapped it with fiberglass both sides then i used 1 layer of 1708 over the entire top, yes will make boat heaver however none of us are under 200 who get on the boat so i felt it needed to be strong because once floor glass cracks the floor will go bad quickly. most the boat floors needing replacement is because the wood was thin flexed and the glass cracked and allowed moisture , also screws from seats, as far as foaming tank , if tank is sealed with epoxy, line x or some type of like product , then foaming would be fine.

 

[froggy1150]

As far as deck glass goes I was throwing the idea of 2 Oz csm (thats what I have) then 1708 with the mat side up and maybe finishing cloth on top of that. I have read the article a few times and kinda was going that route but after thought and research I think that boat was designed with foam as structure. There are the motor stringers that are just over 2 feet. Those are beefy. Then the rest of the sub structure really just looks like a fuel tank frame to support the floor. The bulkheads don' tie into the sides of the hull. And those little holes are getting filled!

 

[froggy1150]

So I have still been stripping the old wood out and got to the part I was dreading...... the drill..... good part is motor mounts stringers are good. Transom not so much but that' not a big deal because it' an omc stringer mount it won' be to bad to fix. When I did the test hole in the stringers the resin "powder" looked grayish white and very hard and I think the last repair was done with epoxy but not positive how to tell for sure. If it is epoxy to get back to poly for the deck has anyone ever made a poly encased stringer,let it cure and use epoxy to glue it to the existing structure and then glass to the poly part of that.i think these transitions will be a little tricky going back and forth between the 2 resins

 

[alldodge]

Use epoxy on poly but not the other way. Think the epoxy is just to hard to bond well but WOG should know

 

[kcassells]

bump

 

[Woodonglass]

If in doubt you'll need to use epoxy cuz the other way will not work. Wondering what your plan is for the transom

 

[froggy1150]

Transom.... new woodnglass :laugh:
yes I am replacing it. I already have poly for the deck. All of the other baby stringers are getting changed too with poly. I can grind back to the original poly everywhere else except the one side of each motor stringer. The top of these stringers are about 2 inches below deck. What I am attempting to do is coat a taller deck stringer with poly,let it cure and then use epoxy to glue this to the shorter motor stringers. Then I can tab all of the poly-poly tabbing. Then I can tab all the epoxy epoxy and epoxy to poly connections. (I know not to put poly to epoxy but can go other way) I think with a bit of creativity I can get all this in and end up isolating the epoxy and end up with a 2 inch poly coated stringer above the motor mounts to be able to connect the deck to. This was a point of failure on the last repair. The last shop did poly to epoxy here and I was able to peel it right up with my hands. I can sketch up a draft if wanted.

? For wood..... I am about 615 pages back and stumbled on a fuel line post around Aug 2010 and you say "gotta read this post" and I hit link and I am not allowed...... just curious

 

[froggy1150]

Started grinding deck lip last weekend. Hope to finish and start cutting out transom and deck stringers. The question..... how to really tell if the last repair has epoxy. I read something that said it' kinda hard to tell unless you have good experience with both

 

[froggy1150]

Any resources I can look

 

[alldodge]

Put some MEK on a small area and see if it starts to soften. If it softens then its Poly, if not its epoxy

 

[froggy1150]

Straight mek not mekp catalyst
and thanks to all

 

[alldodge]

Yes mekp

 

[Woodonglass]

? For wood..... I am about 615 pages back and stumbled on a fuel line post around Aug 2010 and you say "gotta read this post" and I hit link and I am not allowed...... just curious

Not sure I know what you're referencing??

 

[froggy1150]

This link. Not a big deal. Just part of my insane quest for knowledge:frusty:

 

[froggy1150]

So I was getting the last bit of demolition done and was ready to start glassing transom and knocked off the bulkhead in front of the engine stringers and they were slightly wet and black. I had done some test holes that came out dry and solid before. So I mancried then accepted the fact I was doing these stringers too. Got out there tonight to start removing stuff and gave a corner a good whack and other than very shallow discoloration on the end they are dry and solid. Could I just cut off 1 inch to remove the black fungus