1974 Ebbtide Restoration - SPLASHED

[Woodonglass]

No problems with that

 

[Corjen1]

Yup, I would thin it but only about 1/2 as much as if you were spraying it. TIP: If you use the MAJIC paint and when to first open it and start to stick stir it, if you notice a Lot of Solids in the bottom of the can...especially with the primer, TAKE IT BACK!!! It's been on the shelf too long and it's gone bad!!! Make them give you another can and open it in the store and check it! It's notorious for that!!! Good paint but...It's gotta be Fresh.!!!!

That is exactly what mine was like....then I spent days sanding it off!!!!

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah, Decker, taught me that when he had issues with their primer. I spent an Hour on the phone with MAJIC paints Lead Tech. He gave me the Low Down on their paint. He even sent me a Free quart of the primer to test. Needless to say it was FRESH. Worked Great. A month later I went to my local Tractor supply and told the manager about my conversation and asked him to pop the top on a can of the primer and stir it for me. Guess what...All the solids were in the bottom of the can. He opened 2 more with the same results. On the thirds one he put it on the shaker for 10 mins and then reopened it and I will admit they were all re-mixed. I took it home and shot it and it seemed to work fine. Sooo. What I do now is.. I use the Rustoleum Primer and the Majic Paint, Hardener and reducer. Seems to work GREAT!!!

 

[mercurymang]

Here is the piece I'll be painting. I've just about completed the sanding but I need to hit it with some primer so I can see how it's going to look. I'm pretty sure I wont be able to find this color so it looks as though I'll be doing the color matching process you spoke of.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah, creamy white should be fairly easy. Get some of those half pints of rustoleum. Brown and yellow and use a 2oz of white and then add a tsp of yellow and mix well and see what you get. Some brown might help too. Get it in direct sun light and dab it on and let it dry and see which dab looks best, Keep meticulous notes on each dabs mixture ratio and then you can multiply it to get your big mix. This conversion table will help later on...http://www.asknumbers.com/ounces-to-teaspoon.aspx.
When she's all primered and the "Scabs" are all hidden she's gunna look Brand New!!! For your first Go at it, I'd say ...

 

[mercurymang]

Let me throw another one at ya. On the way home from work, I stopped off at Lowes. They have Rustoleum oil based Enamel and can mix colors for me. I think this is the same paint right. Whadya' think about going that route?

 

[Woodonglass]

Heck yah!!! If they'll color match for ya.. Go for it!!!

 

[mercurymang]

Hey guys, the plot thickens. Did some more reading and found that one of the drawbacks to the Rustoleum method is that the paint has little UV protection (not sure if it matters for the amount of time it actually spends in the sun) but I found this. It has UV protection and is only a few dollars more. The same application methods apply.

 

[Woodonglass]

This ^^ B True, but When you add the hardener it changes the chemical makeup of the product. Mines been on 2 seasons and The gloss is still there! But as you say the difference in the price is very negligible so if you can get the Topside Rustoleum In the color you want, Or have it mixed, then I'd say why not use it. Good Call MM!!!!

 

[mercurymang]

Wood, do you think I could paint that piece with 1 quart or would it take more than that?

 

[Woodonglass]

Remember, with thinning one quart turns into a quart and a half. I'm pretty sure you can get two coats on that bow piece with a quart of paint. Do you have her in primer yet?? Where's the pics??

 

[mercurymang]

No, no primer or paint or hardener or anything yet. Still trying to figure out what I'm going to get and where. Got a four day weekend coming up so I plan to hit it hard. I may forego the marine paint and just go with the standard rustoleum simply because i probably won't be able to find it locally.

I'll try to post some pics up this evening of this weeks work. Just been doing filling and sanding on the bow section. Last night I put the last layer of CSM on the floor (except for the very front where I ran out of csm because I miscalculated how much I needed and had to order some more :mad-new.

 

[Woodonglass]

Miscalculated??? Oh Wow I've NEVER done anything like That!!!!!:facepalm: I know you have some concern about the paint. All I can say is...DON'T. It's Not 1/2 as bad as you think it's going to be. I'm betting you'll find it to be quite easy and enjoyable. It actually goes down really nice and with the ultra fine rollers it makes it easy. Just use one to put the paint on and the other to roll out the bubbles. Pretty simple. Have you watched the videos??

 

[mercurymang]

Yes, watched videos and read alot (maybe too much). I tend to over analyze and then suffer from too much info. I think I am going to get the topside paint online. I'm going to get the oyster-white as it looks pretty close to my color and if it's not perfect... oh well, close enough.

 

[Woodonglass]

Paralysis By Analysis. I've seen a LOT of that here on the Forum.

 

[mercurymang]

Ok, here's some pictures of my current status:

Got the bow eye holder installed tonight:

Current floor sitiation:

Here you can see where I was short a few feet on csm - it's on order:

Here's my current patch work on the bow section:

 

[Woodonglass]

Looking good!!! Some sanding and fairing on the bow patching and some primer and you'll never know it was cut to pieces. That's the beauty of fiberglass, You just can't destroy it!!!

 

[mercurymang]

One thing I figured out was that my ratio of q-cells to resin was too low. I was mixing it 50/50 and it was pretty hard to sand. I started adding a little more qcells per resin amount and it produced a more workable mixture. I will say i'm still wasting too much of it and am learning to make smaller batches.

 

[mercurymang]

I'm about to run down and pick up the paint supplies. I'm going to pickup some paint and try to have them match it. Also going to pick up some primer, some hardener and some mineral spirits.
Is the application of the primer the same as the paint? Do I need to thin it and roll it with the same technique and then wet sand it?

 

[Woodonglass]

Not exactly. As I said before you'll only thin it slightly. About 1/4 cup of thinner per 2 cups of primer. Yes you will wet sand between coats of primer looking for imperfections and where you find them you will sand back down to glass, wipe clean with acetone and refill with fairing material and sand and fair and reshoot with primer. You will continue this process until you get her where you like it and then do one final cover coat of primer with a final wet sanding and wipe down and then you do your color coats.