1974 Ebbtide Restoration - SPLASHED

[Woodonglass]

Yup, sent you another one.

 

[mercurymang]

Last night I attempted to make fairing compound with some resin and some q-cells. My understanding was that it the q-cells would make it relatively easy to sand. However, I started the sanding process and have found that my sandpaper gums up so fast that I cant really get anywhere. I mixed it around 50/50 by volume. Anyone have any words of wisdom for me?

 

[Woodonglass]

how much MEKP did you Add?

 

[mercurymang]

I was somewhere around 1% as I recall.

 

[Woodonglass]

What's your temps and humidity? How longs it been "cookin"?

 

[mercurymang]

I let it cook for 24 hours. Temps were in the 90's this afternoon. The stuff is hard as a rock, It's just that outer layer that's still just tacky enough to gum up the sandpaper.

 

[Woodonglass]

got any wax additive to put in it? In order for it not to gum up it's got to fully cure and to do that it needs to have the wax surfacing agent added too. That's prolly my bad for not stating that in previous posts. I didn't really think about it. I usually use Glass bubbles and the Cheap Box Store Resin to make my sanding filler with because it has the wax already in it. I keep a quart of it on hand just for that purpose.

 

[GT1000000]

Sometimes works, sometimes doesn't...
You can try wiping down with Acetone or Lacquer thinner prior to sanding...Lacquer thinner seems to work a bit better in some instances...
Unless wax is added to the final coat of resin or gel coat, the resin will remain somewhat tacky and gummy...
Most of the time, though, you just need to have a LOT of sandpaper on hand...
You could also try having a stiff wire brush handy and remove some of the gummy mess from the sand paper with it...
Another tip is to take a few strokes, literally like 2-4 with the sand paper, clean with the wire brush and repeat...after a time, the gum will stop and the sand paper will cut better...I know, it sounds tedious, and it is, but if you have a lot to sand and a limited amount of sand paper, you have to make things work...

 

[mercurymang]

Ok. Thanks guys. I'm currently wrestling with my perfectionist side. I really don't want to spend too much time on this piece and just want to get it done, but the little guy on my shoulder keeps saying, "you cant put it in your boat like THAT". Sad to say, I think he will lose this time.
I will use the advice given though and see if it corrects my problems.

 

[mercurymang]

So I've blended Wog's and GT's advice. I put the wax in and also went down and got a lot of sand paper. It's still gums up a bit but not as bad. You just really have to use a lot of sandpaper and my Multi-Max with 60 grit has helped me to get in those corners that were giving me trouble. I think I can have it ready for paint in a week or so. Once that's done, it's re-capitation time. Can't wait.

 

[Woodonglass]

Hmm, Not sure if its the glass bubbles or what, but I don't have the clogging problem that much. What grit are you using?

 

[mercurymang]

I've got some 60 and some 100. The biggest problem I had was the multi-max is using 60 grit and gums up fairly quickly. The 100 grit i'm using on the flatter surfaces doesn't seem to have as big a problem with it. Could it be that I'm generating to much heat with the sander?

One thing I can say is that the original Gel Coat on there is hard as heck and is going to abrade.

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmmm yeah possibly. You might try block sanding and see. I use 80 grit by hand block sanding and then finish off with 180.

 

[mercurymang]

I have spent most of the morning sanding. I started out trying to block sand but for some reason, that wasn't working out too well (maybe i'm just not patient enough) but I was able to get the corners fairly well hand sanding with 100 grit. After that, I switched to the orbital with 220 and it worked very well. I have it almost completely sanded and I think I only need a few more fairings to get things smooth.
I read Wog's write up on the roll 'n roll technique and I plan to go that route. Looks perfect for what I plan to do. I don't know too much about paints and the different types so I have a question regarding the type of paint listed in the write up. It shows a primer and a clear lacquer. Is the clear lacquer the paint? Not sure I understand that.

 

[Woodonglass]

No, the Clear lacquer is the final protective coat IF you want to use it. I don't think you need to use it especially if you use the hardener which I DO recommend you use. Majic paint has Primer, Paint, Clear coat and the Reducer/Thinner. You only need the Primer, Paint, Hardener and Reducer. If you roll n roll start on the transom first so you get used to it. It takes some practice and do light coats and use two rollers. On the final roll over use a very light touch with very little paint and listen for the "Sticky" sound. when you hear it, You're done. Move on to the next area. It's be flat, smooth and it'll look like you sprayed it. You'll get the hang of it by the time you get the transom done!!!

 

[mercurymang]

Just to confirm... I DO need the reducer if I'm rolling it on?

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup, I would thin it but only about 1/2 as much as if you were spraying it. TIP: If you use the MAJIC paint and when to first open it and start to stick stir it, if you notice a Lot of Solids in the bottom of the can...especially with the primer, TAKE IT BACK!!! It's been on the shelf too long and it's gone bad!!! Make them give you another can and open it in the store and check it! It's notorious for that!!! Good paint but...It's gotta be Fresh.!!!!

 

[mercurymang]

Good tip. So I've been doing some research because I know almost nothing about paint(ing). I've been exposed to it but it was just something that I never peeled away the onion on so to speak. I like the majic paint concept but I believe it's similar to the Rustoleum tractor paint. I was in the local hardware store today and they had some tractor paint in there that said it was similar to the Rustoleum paint. The also had the valspar hardener and reducer. I don't remember the brand but just curious if you thought it would be ok to use an alternative brand like that or if you think the Majik is clearly superior.

 

[Woodonglass]

Nah, any acrylic enamel paint will work. When it comes right down to it the formula for them is all pretty much the same. Once the hardener is added it'll cure hard as nails.

 

[mercurymang]

I have some rattle can primer. Can I use that to try to float some areas or should I stay away from that stuff?