1974 Ebbtide Restoration - SPLASHED

[Woodonglass]

As long as it's glassed properly, it really doesn't matter. Totally your choice

 

[mercurymang]

I need to fix this stupidity that I did early on in the restore. I'm not concerned about how it looks externally, only that it is fixed correctly.

I'm thinking sand it and feather it out. Put some tape on the outside, mix up some PB and put it on the inside. Once that is cured, put a layer of 1708 over it on the inside.

​

 

[Woodonglass]

YUP ^^^^ You got it. I'd prolly put down 2 layers. 1st one 3" wide last one 6"

 

[mercurymang]

Thanks WOG. While I'm at it should I go ahead and put a layer of the 1708 on the hull wherever there is not already some tabbing just for strength?

 

[Woodonglass]

What area are you speaking of?

 

[mercurymang]

So when I did the demolition, I ground the entire hull down to the glass. After bedding and tabbing in the stringers, most of the hull now has at least another layer of 1708 over it due to the tabbing but there are some areas that are just the plain hull (the picture above represents a portion of that area). Hope that makes sense.

Just wondering it if should go ahead and put an extra layer everywhere before I seal it all up.

 

[brigonthelake]

Just stumbled on your thread...excellent work! I just happen to be restoring the very same boat right now. My project isn't as extensive as yours, but its been a hell of a ride! Here's a link to my facebook album of photos:

 

[mercurymang]

Just stumbled on your thread...excellent work! I just happen to be restoring the very same boat right now. My project isn't as extensive as yours, but its been a hell of a ride! Here's a link to my facebook album of photos:

Hey cool. Good to see someone else with the same boat. There have been a couple more guys on here with the same boat but haven't seen them in a while. I'll go check you out on facebook.

 

[Woodonglass]

If the Hull feels weak or flimsy in those areas then, yeah I'd put down a layer. If not then I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[mercurymang]

Saturday was quite a productive day. I was able to repair the cuts i made in the hull on either side. I was also able to get the floor cut. In the end, I went with the 5/8" marine not really for the strength but more to make up a little difference in the height of the floor.

The next step is glassing the floor with CSM and them tabbing them in.

 

[Woodonglass]

Not to Shabby!!! Nice Progress!!!:rockon:

 

[mercurymang]

I'm assuming that you would not want your floor to rest on the hull anywhere. Would that correct be correct?

 

[tpenfield]

I'm assuming that you would not want your floor to rest on the hull anywhere. Would that correct be correct?

Not quite sure what you mean . . . along the edges of the deck? Probably not, you might get some spider cracks on the outside of the hull . . .

 

[Woodonglass]

Yup, you should leave 1/4 to 1/2" gap and fill with PB Just like Stringers, don't want any hard spots.

 

[mercurymang]

Yup, you should leave 1/4 to 1/2" gap and fill with PB Just like Stringers, don't want any hard spots.

Yep. This is what I was referring to.

Thank you.

 

[mercurymang]

I got the cross supports for the hull glassed yesterday.

I also received my 1708 shipment and put a little reinforcement on this part of the hull...

Got the bilge area cut out of the floor...

And I got the underside of two sections of the floor glassed before I ran out of resin. Got order some more.

Once again, I tried laying the fiberglass over the edge. I used a 3/4" roundover bit to help things out. The first one didn't turn out too well and ended up grinding at least half of it off. The second one came out a little better. I tore the edges of the glass and attempted to roll it over. Just rolling didn't prove to work very well. What I had to do was baby sit it and just put the glass down as it tacked up. Any place that I saw begin to lift, I would lightly pull it and eventually, I got a nice glass coverage of the side and it ended up like this...

At the end of the day, I decided to do a little cleanup as I have my old car right next to my work area. I decided to move it and mow and weed-eat just to keep the snake away. Guess what I found 6 feet away from my work area.

A copperhead.

 

[GT1000000]

Excellent progress, "mang"...
I'll bet you were pretty amazed at what that one extra layer of 1708 did to stiffen the hull...?
And, yeah the bane of fiberglassing is getting good coverage around the edges...pretty much no matter what you do, it's always a PITA...:frusty:
I am beginning to think that it might be better to mix up some sort of PB with fibers in it and slap that on the edges, instead of trying to do the wrap thing...
I know it will work on areas that will later be tabbed to one another, but I am thinking of using it on areas that remain exposed...:noidea:
Keep up the Grrrr-8 forward motion...:thumb:

 

[mercurymang]

Thanks GT. Man that stuff drinks the resin. I used 4 liters on those two panels.

In regards to the pour in foam. It seems that most people cut holes in their deck after installing in and then pour the foam in. I have seen other folks that pour it in before installing the floor. Seems like it would be real easy to pour foam in with the floor out starting at the rear and then just work you way forwards with a few boards that you could put down to force it forward. Any advice on this?

 

[GT1000000]

Yep, you can do it either way...
The big advantage to pouring it without the deck in place is you can fill every nook and cranny to the very top, then slice off the excess...if you work slowly enough, you can reuse the sliced off portion in the next chamber...the foam has a tendency to continue to expand for a while longer than you think, especially if the temps are over 80º.
Just use some wood covered with a layer of heavy plastic on the foam side to keep it from sticking...
Have fun!

 

[mercurymang]

I just came accross this on craigslist under free: http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/zip/4546256881.html

Is it ok to use or not advisable?