1974 Ebbtide Restoration - SPLASHED

Woodonglass

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Yup, a Good ole' Texas boy should stay in the 1% to 1.5% range on a regular basis.;)
 

bvetter

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

If you can get hold of them, disposable plastic pipettes graduated to 3ml are really easy to use...
On a quick cursory search, I found these...Pipettes
You can use them over and over until they develop a leak and no longer pull up the MEK-P
You could even buy just a couple, and pre-measure your catalyst into a separate cup until you are ready to add it to the resin.
One of the reasons I like them is that when working with resin, there are times you need to mix up an extra batch or two, "on the fly", while you still have your PPE on, your gloves are full of glass hairs, and everything is sticky...at those times, you won't feel so bad if your pipette gets all messed up with hardened resin and glass, as opposed to one of those nice measuring bottles with the graduated cup attached...
Then again, you could probably go to your local pharmacy and ask for a couple of free cough medicine/mouthwash measuring cups...:rolleyes:

I have found that if I layer up with two or three latex gloves on each hand, I can pull off a layer quickly without stopping the work when they get sticky and hairy. Helps keep the tooling from getting too nasty.
 

GT1000000

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

I have found that if I layer up with two or three latex gloves on each hand, I can pull off a layer quickly without stopping the work when they get sticky and hairy. Helps keep the tooling from getting too nasty.

A trick I use all the time, keep a 2.5 quart bucket filled with just enough acetone to completely wet a rag...when the mess gets a bit too much, I do a quick wipe down with the wet rag and get about 90+% of the mess off and if you keep another rag over the mouth of the bucket, it slows evaporation, then when I'm all finished and before I remove the gloves, I use that rag and acetone to clean up any tools or buckets [ I still have a couple of chip brushes and several quart buckets that I started with, and any nasty acetone left over, I pour back into an empty gallon container, after a couple of days, most of the thick nasty stuff separates out and then I pour that acetone into another clean container but separate from the fresh stuff...this also saves me from burning the skin on my forearms while trying to peel just one layer of gloves off of the the others...BTW, for this method to work you need to use the really heavy duty 14 mil gloves, the thin ones will melt...;) the good gloves will also last through more than a couple of uses if you clean them good and when dry, just powder them with baby powder...inside and out...
 

mercurymang

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Thanks for all the awesome tips.

Well I decided to take a trip down to HD and pick up some plywood for my transom as just two weeks ago they had a whole stack of Auraco 3/4". I got there tonight and couldn't find any. I asked a guy who worked there and he said they weren't ordering any more. Sooooo.... Looks like I'll have to take a trip over to Fort Worth Plywood.

BTW, looks like I'm getting closer to selling my home and this afternoon I put an offer on a place so things may start happening soon. Once they do, I'll probably be scarce for a while but hopefully not too long. I still have a deadline to meet.
 

glnbnz

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

I have found that if I layer up with two or three latex gloves on each hand, I can pull off a layer quickly without stopping the work when they get sticky and hairy. Helps keep the tooling from getting too nasty.

I have found that using the Playtex living glove stands up to an acetone wash and I could use the same pair all day. They also protected my arms better. Just a thought :)
 

bvetter

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

I have found that using the Playtex living glove stands up to an acetone wash and I could use the same pair all day. They also protected my arms better. Just a thought :)

I should correct myself, I've been using Nitrile gloves, not latex. Don't know if this makes a difference or not (I am the furthest thing from a chemist). :)
 

GT1000000

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

I have found that using the Playtex living glove stands up to an acetone wash and I could use the same pair all day. They also protected my arms better. Just a thought :)
Didn't know this about the Playtex gloves, good info!
I should correct myself, I've been using Nitrile gloves, not latex. Don't know if this makes a difference or not (I am the furthest thing from a chemist). :)
I have used all kinds except the playtex, mentioned above and have found these to withstand the detrimental effects of lacquer thinner and acetone the best...they are still a latex compound, but I suppose the thickness helps them to withstand the solvents better...they do tend to get soft if I keep them too wet with solvents and they do eventually break down, but I have used a variety of different types, and these seem to hold out the longest...

Happy Friday!:)
 

bvetter

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Didn't know this about the Playtex gloves, good info!

I have used all kinds except the playtex, mentioned above and have found these to withstand the detrimental effects of lacquer thinner and acetone the best...they are still a latex compound, but I suppose the thickness helps them to withstand the solvents better...they do tend to get soft if I keep them too wet with solvents and they do eventually break down, but I have used a variety of different types, and these seem to hold out the longest...

Happy Friday!:)

I like how they bolded "EXAMINATION GRADE" right on the package.....
 

mercurymang

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Happy Easter everyone. Wow. it's been a while since I've been on here. You may remember that I sold my house. I have almost got moved in and most of the "honey do's" are out of the way (well maybe not but I'm closer). I moved to place with some land and we brought home one of our horses yesterday and plan to bring home the other next week. I was also able to pick my boat up and bring it home. The new place has a car shed that the previous owner used to store his tractor. This evening after doing some work on the barn, I was able to lift the cap up to the underside of the carport where I plan to store it while I work on the hull. I can now move the trailer and hull in and out of the covered area my hand. When I'm ready to re-attach the cap, I can just lower it onto the hull. This is how I wanted to do it at the old place but just didn't have the ability.
At any rate, I plan to get rolling again while the glassing weather holds out. Here's picture of the new setup.

20140420_201908.jpg
 

tpenfield

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Nice looking set up. Glad to hear that you are getting settled. Are you shooting for boating season?
 

mercurymang

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Yep, that's the goal. Not sure I can make it but i'll try. I heard it's supposed to hit 90 on friday so I'll have to hurry.

What is the max temperature you can store resin at? I heard it's supposed to hit 90 on Friday.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

The cooler the better. I'd try to keep it in the 70's. Especially the MEKP.
 

mercurymang

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

The cooler the better. I'd try to keep it in the 70's. Especially the MEKP.

Hmm. I'm pretty sure the only way to do that is to store it indoors which would probably not be good for my marriage.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Plastic bag, Ice Chest with water in the shade.;)
 

mercurymang

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

So I finally got down the plywood store and picked up some marine grade plywood for the transom. I managed to get the two halves cutout last night but I need to do a little tweaking before laminating them so they fit just right. I plan to laminate them with the Tite-Bond as many as you do.

Is it better to load up the edges between the skin and the transom before installation and let it ooze out or should I install the transom and then fill in the gaps around the edges with the PB?
 

bvetter

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

So I finally got down the plywood store and picked up some marine grade plywood for the transom. I managed to get the two halves cutout last night but I need to do a little tweaking before laminating them so they fit just right. I plan to laminate them with the Tite-Bond as many as you do.

Is it better to load up the edges between the skin and the transom before installation and let it ooze out or should I install the transom and then fill in the gaps around the edges with the PB?

I think you'll want to try and get it to ooze out. That way you know you've got just enough clamping pressure for an even bond. I used 7L of PB on my transom, and still only got a little "oozing" out the very ends. Whatever comes out, you can use to fillet or fill in gaps. If you have an estimate of what the overall PB layer thickness is going to be, and you know the surface area, you can calculate the volume of PB required, then add maybe 10-15% on top of that to give you an idea of how much to be prepared for mixing up. You don't want any hold ups when you start putting it in.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

I'd review this..."Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

Read the last line about drilling "ooze holes" I really recommend doing this. It makes for a great mechanical bond and ensures you dont' get any air pockets too! Don't use to much CMF in the mix. About 1/4 cup per Quart is all you need. I'd recommend using a 3/8" wide toothed trowel to apply the PB.

5HXD7_AS01.JPG
 
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mercurymang

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Messages
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Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

Re: 1974 Ebbtide Restoration

I think you'll want to try and get it to ooze out. That way you know you've got just enough clamping pressure for an even bond. I used 7L of PB on my transom, and still only got a little "oozing" out the very ends. Whatever comes out, you can use to fillet or fill in gaps. If you have an estimate of what the overall PB layer thickness is going to be, and you know the surface area, you can calculate the volume of PB required, then add maybe 10-15% on top of that to give you an idea of how much to be prepared for mixing up. You don't want any hold ups when you start putting it in.

Is that 7 Liters?

I'd review this..."Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

Read the last line about drilling "ooze holes" I really recommend doing this. It makes for a great mechanical bond and ensures you dont' get any air pockets too! Don't use to much CMF in the mix. About 1/4 cup per Quart is all you need. I'd recommend using a 3/8" wide toothed trowel to apply the PB.

5HXD7_AS01.JPG

Yep, I've been reading it. Just like laying tile right:)
 
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