1974 18' HOLIDAY

[Kitch]

console is finally done,I could have bought 2 new ones if I was paid 5 dollars an hr for labor on this.

 

[Kitch]

Went to the ramp for the FIRST leak test and failed Big Time,10 rib ends were leaking,I would not see the cracks
with my OLD eyes but I kept in in for awhile to make sure I found them all.very small cracks but that's a big issue
to me.looks like IM GOING HERE!!! see pic.

 

[Watermann]

console is finally done,I could have bought 2 new ones if I was paid 5 dollars an hr for labor on this.

Isn't that the truth! :lol: Looks great though :thumb:

 

[Kitch]

This is what I used in the paint.it worked a lot better than sand I used on my other starcrafts in the past.

 

[Candutch]

Nice job on the console Kitch. Crappy news about the cracks though.

 

[Kitch]

YEP, I got that pic off another thread of the repair ,Im going to do the same way cuz it looks awesome.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah that guy is rivet loco though :lol: On my patches I back buttered with 5200 and used the existing rivet holes plus two more for 6 rivets per patch. Be sure to stop drill the end of the crack before messing with them much and use a smaller bit.

 

[Kitch]

more good news,wm said pull the knee brace and do it right,so I did and man waterman hit the nail on the head,as usual.
pitted hole and a 2" crack.

 

[Kitch]

listen to waterman when he gives advice.

 

[Kitch]

IM thinking of a thin alum plate buttered up with 5200 about 3" wider and 1" longer than the footprint of the
knee brace between the brace and the inside of the hull.and as usual I'm open to ALL feedback,cuz you guys ARE THE BEST.
WATERMAN AND GA you both have saved me tons of future headaches with your experience, thanks to you all.

 

[classiccat]

Yeah that guy is rivet loco though :lol:

Did somebody say "rivet"???!!! :madgrin: :madgrin:

Lookin' good there Kitch! Our cracked-up tinnie support group meets on Wednesday evenings. New guy brings the donuts. :hungry:


P.S.. On that kneebrace, I'd patch on the outside due to fitment issues; if you raise the knee brace, the holes in the transom skin will not line-up.

 

[Kitch]

Glazed or Filled Donuts?
10-4 on the fitment of the holes. WM I like you rivet pattern and will go with that.

 

[Watermann]

It's all happened to one of us at some time when working the tin. Since my rib end cracks were so small I went with a smaller patch, it kind of depends on which direction the cracks go and how developed they are.

CC had just about everything happen that can happen to his SS so the mans patching and 5200 slathering abilities might have developed into an art form.

 

[Kitch]

The cracks are 1/4" bow to stern if that long,but in these pics you can see the gaps between the end of the ribs
and the hull matl,I took pick from inside and outside fo starboard side, the port side is fine and flat?

 

[Kitch]

Must be from running the boat with floors detached from ribs?

 

[classiccat]

deck not attached to the ribs &/or side panels not attached to the deck.

I think the trailer setup has alot to do with it.

My P.O. was one of those that threw the huge strap over the gunnels and winched her down...rather than using the transom eyes.

Couple that with poorly adjusted bunks, keel rollers and a rusted-up suspension..."good" recipe for this issue.

 

[Watermann]

Yeah exactly what causes these issues is compromised decks, side panels and transom all together allow the excess flexing that works the AL until it cracks. SC came up with the hull stiffeners to compensate for the rib end cracks and the worst defect that will happen is the spray rail will split out down the side which would be catastrophic.

 

[Kitch]

I guess I will try and pull it back with the alum patches on the outside of the hull.and just fill in with plenty of 5200.

 

[Kitch]

I guess I will fill in the low spots on the outside of the ribs w 5200 and see if the rivet will pull them together
the best I can,or put a spacer between the end of the rib and the hull on the inside.

 

[classiccat]

I guess I will fill in the low spots on the outside of the ribs w 5200 and see if the rivet will pull them together
the best I can,or put a spacer between the end of the rib and the hull on the inside.

my advice would be to get yourself a deadblow hammer and try to form the patch to the hull skin. The rib-end patches shouldn't have to conform too much. The knee-brace patch has alot of curve to it.

one trick I've used at least with 5052 aluminum, is to coat 1 side with soap & heat the opposite side with a torch until the soap burns...at that point, it's much more malleable.

when you're banging on the patch, you'll want it to stay in 1 place, so either use pop-rivets to hold it temporarily (they're easy to remove) or drill/tap into the hull skin with some 6/32 or 8/32 screws...you'll replace them with larger, solid rivets later.