1974 18' HOLIDAY

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,786
I guess I will fill in the low spots on the outside of the ribs w 5200 and see if the rivet will pull them together
the best I can,or put a spacer between the end of the rib and the hull on the inside.

The puckered rivet holes protruding inward are an issue. I would attempt to flatten those back out so the rib will lay flat and you won't need a 1" long fastener to put it back together. You can do it a couple ways. I would try this sandwich method, a backer plate on the outside and use bolts through the rivet holes and backer with a washer/nut on the inside and tighten them down to clamp flatten the pucker. The other method would be using a hammer and supported backer on the outside.
 

Kitch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 19, 2016
Messages
123
OK WM, I am into this jewel????? full force now!
 

Kitch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 19, 2016
Messages
123
Ok guys,just wondering what kind of force is put on a knee brace?
 

Kitch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 19, 2016
Messages
123
I'm just thinking J-B Weld might be too brittle to butter it with, I'm Thinkin 5200 is better?
 
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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,786
The knee brace absorbs some of the force applied by the outboard. Yeah 5200 for sure for back buttering patches.
 

Kitch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 19, 2016
Messages
123
Ok, taking the death blow to the ribs tomorrow to try to flatten out the hull a tad.then 5200 and new rivets.
 

Kitch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 19, 2016
Messages
123
Just wondering?
I was under the boat looking at the bunks and saw at the stern the last 12"-18" is about one inch from the hull, and they are
10"-12" short of being even with the transom. no motor on it yet. This sound about right?
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,786
Just wondering?
I was under the boat looking at the bunks and saw at the stern the last 12"-18" is about one inch from the hull, and they are
10"-12" short of being even with the transom. no motor on it yet. This sound about right?

I set my bunk trailer up with no weight in the boat, just bare hull. It's best to have the bunks end even with the transom or a couple inches short at most. The hull should be supported and in contact with the bunks entirely with no gap. Something is out of adjustment. Front bolster is too high or rear too low.

Pics of the set up would help.
 

Kitch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 19, 2016
Messages
123
I can get pics tonight,it is real weird, I am with you on set up with just the hull skin. and that is why I was under there
poking around. because after I get the bunks fixed correctly its put in the floor. and from there its all fun for us folks/not so flexible anymore that
enjoy working on a flat surface/stool.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,786
I see there isn't any adjustment for the bunk mounts to the trailer frame, they are what they are. I'm using these type of bolster brackets for my bunks with the swivel head you can adjust them to the hull angle too.

http://www.iboats.com/Bolster-Brack...279272--session_id.131549966--view_id.1020323

241-81210_0.jpg
 

Kitch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 19, 2016
Messages
123
Got back on it this weekend, floor in all new fuel vent hoses DBL clamped and the console with new bottom machine.
I think the 1/4" rivets will hold 100% better than the factory.new steering and wheel. fl.jpg
 

Kitch

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Feb 19, 2016
Messages
123
Things are coming together,I found a 1999 70 hp with perfect compression,200 hrs and I put a new water pump
rebuilt carbs with omc kits,changed lower end fluid.and she looks brand new inside and out.
I got all rigging done,22 GAL tank,the only thing on this boat that is not new out of the box is the hull skin and the motor!
and my WALLET KNOWS IT.LOL
 
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