1969 25 Hp Johnny Rude/Kicker?

[saltchuckmatt]

HF

When putting it in gear with the motor off you have to rotate the prop.

 

[jitterbug127]

I didn’t know to rotate prop when shifting when motor is off. Is it clockwise both directions?

 

[jitterbug127]

I appreciate everyone’s help/desire to help. It’s great.

 

[F_R]

The pinion WILL break if the screw isn't in it. But surely you know that, right?

 

[jitterbug127]

The pinion WILL break if the screw isn't in it. But surely you know that, right?

I had the screw in it and it broke.

 

[jitterbug127]

what lubricant do you guys like to put under the cowling? I’ve messed with spring for the shifter lock and now it’s moving freely in neutral.

 

[racerone]

If throttle is advanced too far you can NOT take it out of gear !!

 

[davidmbv]

There is a shift lock that prevents the user from shifting into gear at higher RPM/throttle . See part #42 and the part in the image I’m pointing to.

 

[davidmbv]

I use marine bearing grease to lube up parts as well as white lithium grease if needed . Seems to lube things good

 

[jitterbug127]

There is a shift lock that prevents the user from shifting into gear at higher RPM/throttle . See part #42 and the part in the image I’m pointing to.

That part has been my problem. It was basically “jammed” and I’ve somehow freed it up. I believe my motor will Properly once that pinion is replace in the throttle. I was going to use some grease/lube to ensure it doesn’t stick again.

Still have plans to remove flywheel to inspect later today or tomorrow. Today is my sons birthday party, so getting to harbor freight hasn’t been viable this morning

 

[davidmbv]

eBay has your motor’s factory service manual for under 20$. I recommend getting one . One thing I learned the hard way is if pull the flywheel and replace any ignition parts (points/coils/ condensers) make sure you carefully “tuck” the wires as they were. If not, they will rub against the flywheel and eventually short out causing miss fire issues.
Google how to adjust points using voltage meter—to adjust your points properly.
Also invest in a spark tester (under 20$). This will save you from replacing unnecessary parts. I’ve found dirty points will cause weak spark and also any ground issues related to how the wires “tuck” under the flywheel. Google is your friend . Lots of YouTube videos for about anything you need to do on that motor. If you have good spark, I would not mess with anything.
I also run Champion J6C plugs (gap accordingly). Factory recommends J4C or slightly hotter J6C. My old motors run better with 6’s.
With volt meter you can check plug wires, coils for any shorts , again google is your friend.
Also, don’t grease the crankshaft when you reinstall the flywheel. I did that once and my points got dirts and read that’s a no no. It caused misses. Clean the crankshaft and any oil under flywheel with a rag and solvent if needed. If you see lots of oil, could be upper crankshaft seal. That’s a DIY job and may as well replace plug wires if you pull the magneto/armature etc. I wouldn’t recommend unless lots of oil and issues idling.
That’s my two cents. I’m by no means and expert just learning so I could be off .
Good luck. These motors are relatively easy to maintain but you should learn all you can because they aren’t worth taking to a shop for service vs price .

 

[jitterbug127]

100% agreed on cost of repairs vs return on investment. I spent a pretty penny to have someone go through it and do any repairs that might need done. I could’ve probably done all of them myself eventually, but I’m shorter on time than anything right now with the little guy. Good tip on the owners manual. My motor has good spark and 125/125 for compression in each cylinder. I went ahead and invested some good $ into it now to have a strong future for it! I just put the j4c plugs in it this week. I’ve also heard you can use ngk plugs but haven’t messed with it yet. I think I’ll stick with champion

 

[racerone]

Well----When folks say that they have " good spark " it means very little.-----A good magneto will produce up to 28,000 volts.----That will jump a gap of 5/16" with a snap you can hear.----Does your jump a gap of 5/16" , yes or no ?

 

[jitterbug127]

Well----When folks say that they have " good spark " it means very little.-----A good magneto will produce up to 28,000 volts.----That will jump a gap of 5/16" with a snap you can hear.----Does your jump a gap of 5/16" , yes or no ?

No clue, probably be something cool to test though. I’ll have to get a tester!

 

[Crosbyman]

thereyou go ...easy to do and accurate... if no meter a simple buzzer and battery will do or a simple bulb and battery will do .....
time of openning is more critical than point gaps.
As a qwick fix..... some just adjust the gaps for 0.020 at the highest point of the cam lobe.
if you change plug wires USE METALLIC only (0 Ohms) no automotive carbon wires which have high ohms value

plug boots to ground should read 4-8 KOhms approx

if not HV coil secondary may be open .....bad wire to coil .... oxydized boot clip

Testing an Outboard Coil with a Multimeter using an ignition coil from the Johnson H or T

Multimeter testing of Johnson outboard coils

www.pochefamily.org

 

[jitterbug127]

Absolutely. I’m gonna get the owners manual for my motor and start giving it a go!

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Absolutely. I’m gonna get the owners manual for my motor and start giving it a go!

You want a service manual.

 

[jitterbug127]

What do you guys think of my plug?

 

[airshot]

A little dark and wet, was the motor idling alot before you pulled the plugs? Long periods of very slow of idling can cause that, but if the motor was run hard and the plugs are that dark, that could mean a rich condition..

 

[jitterbug127]

I just got the motor in December and haven’t actually had it in the water yet. I got my boat, motor, trailer for $1000. Running motor and titles for everything I thought it was pretty solid. I’m trying to learn all I can about motor to service it myself best I can