1968 StarCraft Holiday restoration

jdvasher

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 10, 2019
Messages
371
So after some thought I believe I know what all caused this. I believe it was a lack of lubrication during break-in. I assembled the engine several months before the initial start and when I first started it I was having major carb issues and wasn't able to get the RPMs up to properly splash the cam and keep things lubed.

I've made a few calls and getting a replacement is going to be all but impossible. I knew the old blocks were getting harder to find but didn't realize how bad it was.

At this point I have 2 options that I can think of. Start from scratch and re-rebuild the engine I have or buy the newer style long block and swap out for my head. I believe this would also require a different flywheel and coupler.

If anyone has any more specifics on this type of conversion, I would really like to hear them.

Trying to stay positive after that massive blow below the belt.
 

DLNorth

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 26, 2016
Messages
432
This is bad news.
Lubrication - did you use any cam/lifter lube during assembly? And did you use oil that has the additives in for flat lifters, I've "heard" that the new oils do not.

And depending on the damage, I tend to like to rebuild what I have, of course if there are a lot of junk parts then the re-man is in order.
 

jdvasher

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 10, 2019
Messages
371
This is bad news.
Lubrication - did you use any cam/lifter lube during assembly? And did you use oil that has the additives in for flat lifters, I've "heard" that the new oils do not.
I did both. Talked to the owner of the machine shop today at lunch and he said basically the fist 5 minutes determines the life of the cam. The engine sitting for months and the carb issues really screwed up the process. I'm learning towards a second shot.

Will need to send the crank for some work, new cam, lifters, bearings, oil pump. Everything else is in good shape.

Anyone know what threaded studs to get to replace the press in ones on the head? Considering having this done while it's apart.
 

BOYS & TOYS

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 1, 2008
Messages
149
Press in studs should be okay with stock v/springs unless this style engine has problems. I'm not familiar with this engine but the machine shop should point you in the right direction for stud replacement.
ARP is a quality brand of fasteners.
 

BOYS & TOYS

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 1, 2008
Messages
149
Do you know why the lack of oil pressure? If the lifter was still in the bore it wouldn't cause it.
 

jdvasher

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 10, 2019
Messages
371
Do you know why the lack of oil pressure? If the lifter was still in the bore it wouldn't cause it.
Oil pressure bypass valve. It's common for them to get stuck with debris going through the pump. That's the most likely scenario. So far everything else looks good.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,794
Nothing worse than summer bearing down on a guy with a boat that's out of commission. I got lucky with my Chief when I found the 4.3L V6, maybe look for a similar old glasser on the cheap that has a good donor motor you need.
 

jdvasher

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 10, 2019
Messages
371
Nothing worse than summer bearing down on a guy with a boat that's out of commission. I got lucky with my Chief when I found the 4.3L V6, maybe look for a similar old glasser on the cheap that has a good donor motor you need.

The old man than runs the shop is going to help me out in getting the work done asap. I looked around for other donor options as that's how I found the current setup, but this pandemic has really boosted the toy market. What little is available is priced through the roof. I really wish there were more motor options for these old boats. Its much easier to find the 4.3 around because it had many other applications. I did just happen to stumble across (I believe anyways) your Youtube videos. The one where you were pulling the motor from the donor.

I would guess I should be able to have everything back together around the 4th of July, maybe sooner
 

jdvasher

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Jul 10, 2019
Messages
371
Not much I can do right now but clean while I'm waiting for engine parts. Really glad I went with the coosa floors. Carpet was really dirty from the build and pollen from our Oak tree.
 

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jdvasher

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Jul 10, 2019
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371
Still waiting to get parts back from the machine shop so I figured it would be a good time to start on the back seat frames. I've been putting this part off for a while because I knew it was going to be a PITA. when finished the seats will be removable for quick access and the base frames with just a couple pins or bolts.
 

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Are those the Wise jump seats? How do you like them so far? I'm waiting for the white/ navy ones to come back in stock, might do something similar for mounting them
 

jdvasher

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Jul 10, 2019
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371
Are those the Wise jump seats? How do you like them so far? I'm waiting for the white/ navy ones to come back in stock, might do something similar for mounting them
Honestly I think they are garbage, I would not recommend them. I plan to make some custom seats and have them upholstered in the future. They are very weak and flimsy. I don't know of any other options.
 

jdvasher

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Joined
Jul 10, 2019
Messages
371
Are those the Wise jump seats? How do you like them so far? I'm waiting for the white/ navy ones to come back in stock, might do something similar for mounting them
Ha, I was just browsing your thread and noticed you had the same seats. Did your custom bases solve the problems with the sloppy seats? I still have a whole sheet of coosa board that would work perfect for making waterproof seat bases. Congratulations on the splash BTW
 

jdvasher

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Jul 10, 2019
Messages
371
Wow, I got really lucky last night. somehow I missed everything when test fitting the starboard side seat frame. I was really expecting to relocate a bunch of stuff.
 

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jdvasher

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Jul 10, 2019
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371
Also spoke with the machine shop and should have my parts back next week. The crank scratches polished out so saved some money there. Cant wait to get this thing back in the water.
 

jdvasher

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Jul 10, 2019
Messages
371
A little more progress tonight. I'm thinking about wrapping the bases with carpet. I would like to install speakers under the seats in the future as well. There is plenty of room for a second battery down there too.
 

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Joined
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Messages
64
Ha, I was just browsing your thread and noticed you had the same seats. Did your custom bases solve the problems with the sloppy seats? I still have a whole sheet of coosa board that would work perfect for making waterproof seat bases. Congratulations on the splash BTW
Thank you! Yea, we had some leftover plywood from the floor, and a bunch of 1x4s to that we used to make the new base. I planned on making custom bases for it anyway, and when we went to put the plastic one together to see what it would look like - it broke. Just reinforces the fact that they're junk. But the seats themselves seem to be ok so far. Not as good of quality as I was hoping but they get the job done
 

jdvasher

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Jul 10, 2019
Messages
371
I was cleaning up some engine parts last night and I found something else to fix. I removed the brass drain plug from the manifold, figured I would clean the hole and run a tap in there to clean out the threads. What I found, was there was only about 1 thread left. The threads were completely rusted away. As soon as I started turning the tap it broke free. I'm going to drill and tap the hole out to 1/4npt which is pretty easy fix now but man that would have been a major pain in the ass to do while the motor was still in the boat.

Just figured Id share this info as it might save others possible headache in the future.
 

jdvasher

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Jul 10, 2019
Messages
371
I bolted some parts together to help with the cleaning process and degreased the engine. I wiped down the block with acetone after a good blow dry and then painted. I'll paint the rest of the parts this weekend. I really like how the duplicolor ceramic engine paint went on. The color is "cast Iron".
 

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