1964 Starcraft Jet Star Renovation

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

This time I thinned the 6149 undercoater 10% and it went on much better. By design, the stuff is very thick, it's sort of a high build primer. I still couldn't do a second roll with a dry roller because it tacks up so suddenly, but it stayed wet long enough to smooth with the painting roller at the end of each section.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Four hours later, to the sanding. This time I had to do way less of that. I used the "extra fine" 3M sanding sponge

and then a green scotch pad and got it real smooth. A little tweaking to my masking, and on with the first coat of burgundy.

The weather looks good for tomorrow, so in the morning, on to the second coat. This time I only mixed using 10 oz. of paint, and reduced the hardener and thinner amounts accordingly, and that covered the entire topside and inside gunwales and with a few ounces left over. I'm on my last quart of paint. Three coats should do it like on the hull.

On the rolling, it was very difficult to get up under the inner rub rail trim all the way to the edge without getting bad runs. I caught most of them but have a few small ones this time. I'll have to sand them out, and I think the solution is to do that last 1/8" with one of the sponge-stick disposable brushes.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

The second coat is on and it's looking better all the time. It worked well to do those gunwale edges with a 4" sponge brush and a flashlight. Part of my problem is that its hard to see on the one side where I look at it, and the sun/brighter light is in the background causing my pupils to contract, so everything in the boat on that side looks darker.

I am having a little trouble on the broader deck area getting the paint completely even. Some trouble spots that I'll need to sand out:

I ended up switching to a 6" roller from a 4" so I could work faster and maintain a wet edge, keeping the paint more even.

I had enough mixed paint left to apply a third coat in the afternoon , before the 8 hours working time are up.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project & more pics

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project & more pics

The final coat is on!

After repairing yesterday's coat with 220 sanding, then a Scotch pad, I was finished by 8:15 a.m. Again, it looks 100% better.

The temp. when I started was 68 and up to 73 when I finished. Conclusion: Temperature makes all the difference. I think the larger 6" rollers helped too, I could do larger sections and work faster.

It's not perfect but not bad for a first time if I do say so myself. I'm glad this phase is over!!!

That red really makes all those hard-earned dents of a long life show up well!

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project & more pics

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project & more pics

And here's that modified transom extended to accommodate the long shaft 50. I ended up cutting out 1-1/2" from the top of the board with a band saw, & sealing/repainting the edge. That will also make it unnecessary to do any modifications to the stern corner caps.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project & more pics

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project & more pics

I picked up my 1/4" oak face plywood for the dashboard overlay. Once it's cut out, I have some epoxy resin left, so I'll throw some of that on before applying several coats of spar varnish. For gluing it to my current dash board, I'm going to use Titebond III carpenter's wood glue, an aliphatic resin--the literature says it's waterproof. I'd thought about using Gorilla glue, but can't do that because of the oozing as it cure; it'll mess up the edge where it butts up against the upper trim.

I double checked my dash template and tweaked those measurements. While looking over my Teleflex rack steering unit that I bought new a year ago, I found that they had shorted me one bolt and washer of the 4 that hold the two pieces of the rack & pinion unit together, so I have to pick those up. On from that to rechecking fit & position of steering unit & wheel, and figuring where my tach/gauge and switches will go. The BRP tach/gauge unit requires a 3-3/8" hole, but try to find a hole saw in that size locally! So I got a 3-1/4 and will file it out by hand. I just measured it and it won't be much filing.

The only that looks like progress right now was getting the control board installed. That Jo Ann's burgundy marine vinyl is a perfect match for the paint!

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

I've been thinking on a name and came up with this:

I can get it in white Premium 3M cast vinyl in 3" high letters for about $17 from http://doityourselflettering.com/

*******

I've cut and drilled the aluminum channel for my transom cap, & then cut out a board with a similar shape to put over my dash overlay so the pressure will be distributed as evenly as possible when I clamp & glue it. I'm putting off the gluing until I'm sure the urethane is fully hard & cured. The overlay ended up with 1 coat of epoxy resin, and then 7 coats of spar urethane. I also did some measuring and template adjustments for the transom aluminum backer plate I'm making....And laid out my 4 deck cleats and 2 bow chocks to get an idea for positioning.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Now I have the dash overlay glued in. It went pretty smoothly and I like the way it looks.

Before & after:

I have a couple pilot holes drilled to mark the steering wheel & tach. I'll worry about switches & the 12v outlet later. I have a piece of 1/2" x 1/2" angle aluminum to fasten along the bottom to make it look a little more respectable.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

I also put the windshield back on, this proved a little more involved.

I bought some Taylor windshield gasket for the bottom and had a heck of a time getting it on. It came in a roll curled up in a plastic bag and even after sitting out in the sun straight, weighted on the edge by a 2x4, it still wouldn't relax. Solution: I had to tape it on every few inches and leave the tape on until it was installed on the boat.

I had also bought some new windshield brackets that I thought would exchange right into place, but while installing on the deck I discovered that they moved the windshield about an inch too far forward. I wanted to use the original mounting holes, so I found the original brackets and used them instead, even though they are pretty pitted. One had the bolt-protrusion broken off, so I had to cobble up a separate bolt to go thru the windshield. Not all the fasteners I used are SS, so I'll be replacing them later. The deck hardware is laid out for positioning. It's beginning to look more like a real boat!

I had said I was going to reuse the original bow light, but decided it was too pitted, so I got one of the Perko retro style lights. I like this style too and the design's from the right era.

That gasket material is nice, but now I'm wondering if the windshield is original after all because its contour doesn't follow the deck very well in a couple spots and the gasket fits loosely, but is OK. Who knows. Maybe over time it will cook into place when the sun heats the metal up.

Other than the curl, the gasket is pretty easy to work with. Here's a little goof I made because something is out of whack. I mentioned earlier that I think a tree fell on this once and I had to spend a lot of time reshaping the frame, so that might be it.

And of course, the busted corner. I have one piece, but not the whole missing chunk.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

As I'm getting closer to finishing, I can look back and see a lot of stuff I screwed up or bought too much/not needed & wasted the budget on, but I sure learned a lot. Good thing I didn't know what I was in for when I started!

I just ordered more SS fasteners last night. Even though they aren't cheap, it sure beats the hosing you take at Lowes & HD for small quantities!! I'll mention again a great small quantity website with reasonable shipping is http://www.boltdepot.com/

Also just went to a different HD and got 2-3 oz. tubes of 5200 for $6.47 each, so I can start getting the transom in order.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project - What am I doing wrong here?

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project - What am I doing wrong here?

As I tried to cut my transom plate from 1/8" sheet aluminum using a metal cutting blade on a circular saw, I was getting kickback so bad that I could hardly make the cut. Everything was clamped down and I was running along a straightedge. I tried adjusting the depth of the blade up a little so just past the teeth showed underneath and that didn't seem to make a difference.

Here's how that was overcome: (thanks again Wood!)

I made a "ZERO" clearance plate for my saw:

Raise the blade up as high as it will go. Use some hardboard and duct tape it to the base of the saw. Plunge the blade thru the hard board. Set the blade so it just barely cuts thru the aluminum. GO REAL SLOW and wear goggles.

Once I got the hang of the blade depth, it went a lot better.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project - What am I doing wrong here?

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project - What am I doing wrong here?

I installed my home made transom cap and did the final check/placement of my templates for mounting the motor. Once you drill a 1/2" hole, you can't undrill it!

Cutting down the 1-1/2" from the transom top saved the need for cutting the corner caps for fit.

The transom plate is all cut out & ready to be attached.

I installed the helm & steering cable, tach and control. I had an axious moment because I thought I had ordered too long a cable, but when all was laid out, it's pretty close and will work fine.

I installed the tach first and that went fine. I used a 3-1/4" hole saw and filed it out to get to 3-3/8" required.

Then, while installing the rack & pinion unit, I had to move it over about 3/4" toward starboard to get enough clearance behind the dash so it didn't hit the tach. That worked out OK too although I had already drilled my pilot hole and center-punched for the 3 mounting bolt holes; but the mounting plate hid my mistake.

I should have gone with the rotary steering to save room, but I bought the R&P a long time ago before I knew as much as I know now! It does fit OK, but not much room to spare and would have been a lot easier to install the rotary.

I had to modify the back of my control board because the bolts supplied are only long enough to go thru up to 1/2" thickness, and the lower part of my board is 1" thick. I used a forstner bit to countersink the holes by 1/2", and had to make my own spacers for between the control and board because the ones supplied were too thick (7/8"). I made them out of 1/4" aluminum bar.

(I did end up using the 10 degree Teleflex wedge when I mounted the steering wheel to give a little extra leg room.)

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

I saw that you bought some windshield brackets and the rubber seal.....

iboats has them both.

Windshield vinyl: http://www.iboats.com/Deck-Vinyl-White-Windshield-110-Taylor-Made/dm/*******.292844927--**********.403533151--view_id.428937

These fasteners didn't work for me using the original windshield and deck holes, but if you are going to move or replace your windshield, these would work great:

http://www.iboats.com/Hidden-Hold-Down-Fasteners/dm/*******.292844927--**********.403533151--view_id.427152

I don't know why, but it did require a fair amount of digging to find these.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

The transom is IN.

It went pretty well but took a lot of time to get everything to line up just so. My height on the plate was off by just 1/16" and metal is very unforgiving! I mucked around slightly enlarging holes and filing down the top a hair and got it to work. I discovered that one tab on the center knee brace is cracked, but I'm not going to worry about it with the other ones and all the bolts going through. A tank could hit that thing and it wouldn't flex!

To seal the old lower transom top line, I ran a bead of 5200 between the board and outer hull, then after it was all tightened down, ran another bead along the top of the hull skin.

5200: You can't live with it and you can't live without it. Messy, sticky stuff all around, gets all over the place. The good thing is all the working time you have. I found that using Q-tips was a fast & easy way to clean up around bolt heads and screws. Went through about half a roll of paper towels just cleaning things up half way through.

I have these brass drain tubes for the splashwell:

I made one of these for installing the drain tubes:

Also got in the piece of trim along the bottom of the dash.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Today I'm doing some work on the deck hardware. Funny the things you never think about, like that there's a port and starboard chock. I got them both attached and that's when I realized I needed to switch sides.

Also, I started working on the wiring a little.

I'm calling the front deck finished:

One thing that's a bit of a pain, but normal for this type of light I guess, is having to remove the bow light to change bulbs. It wouldn't be so bad if it was attached with screws, but I had to use bolts/nuts in two of the holes, so if I have to do that I need to crawl up into the bow & remove them. I remembered to leave some slack in the wires so I could pull it out a little to get at the socket.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Today, I ended up doing a lot of staring, figuring out wiring & layout. I think I have a plan now and off to get some supplies. I got the stern light installed. Look out George Jetson! I backed all my deck hardware with 1/2" thick oak pieces.

That has to be one of the most unique designs for a stern light ever! I was lucky on that count, the chrome is in pretty good shape, only a little pitting, and the glass dome is excellent and not discolored at all.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Flotation day!

Here's what I did for flotation under the bow and gunwales. I couldn't tell you how effective it will be if I swamp, but I can say that at this point, I have more flotation than the original design. There's 1" under the floor, the hunk under the bow is 6" thick and quite a bit bigger than what was under the tiny foredeck that I didn't replace; and I put 3" front to back under the port gunwale. If there's room after all the control cables & wires are in, I'll add some to the starboard gunwale.

The bow "sandwich" taped together for test fit:

Gorilla glue doing its work.

Glued & trimmed:

Wrapped in my secret silencing weapon, 4 mil clear plastic. I don't know how long the 4 mil will hold up, time will tell. It worked miracles between the floor and hull to silence that, I just don't want a squeaky craft! The plastic is held in place initially by plain old stationery type staples. Strapped in, it will stay in place.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

My wife's not-first useful donation to the project: some old vinyl belts for strapping the foam in place. I attached the belts with 3/4 SS screws to the boards under the top deck.

This is an upside down Hail Mary shot taken from the floor in front of the front seat board. A lucky aim. I could add more layers of foam later if I want, but first I wanted to see how much room I was going to have under the front deck.

The belt method detail:

I put two pieces of foam, 1" & 2" under the port gunwale running front to back. They aren't glued together so I could fit them in. The 1" piece was tacked in place with some liquid nails just to hold it in place during installation. The 2" piece was wrapped in 4 mil becuse they'll be rubbing together:

Then I made some support brackets and riveted them in place after inserting the 2" piece. Maybe not the simplest or most straightforward method, but it seemed like a good idea at the time. The wooden block will keep them from sliding forward or backward.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

A shot of the wiring progress, the back of the dash. The wires hanging down are for the 12v outlet that is not in yet. I decided to mount the bilge pump and light switches on a small piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet left over from cutting out the transom mounting plate.

Bilge pump is in:

Only a couple switches with room for one more later if needed. Just keeping it simple. I decided on this solution mainly because of not wanting to drill more holes in the dash. In the end, it was probably easier this way.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

While I was at HD this morning, I checked to see if they had plastic wire wrap for bundled wires. They didn't have the size I needed, so rather than waste time running around looking for some, I put my brain in motion and came up with this free solution...a piece of old garden hose for where I have zip-tied the wires to the inside of the gunwales:

Before tightening up and concealing behind the gunwale: