1964 Starcraft Jet Star Renovation

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Hello
I have been watching your prgress, you are doing a great job. I have a 64 jet also and there was no floor when I got it and Ive been using it that way but you have inspired me to put one in. Did you use 1/4 inch plywood? I know you were given the rivets by another member But where can I get them? Thanks
Quic

Yes, that's 1/4" exterior plywood. Anything thicker and I don't think you'd be able to get the curve in there. My original floor was pretty rotten and came out in small pieces, but I was first able to make rough templates on big pieces of paper before removal. I'm pretty sure it was the original by Starcraft.

The floor's sealed with: 2 coats of epoxy, and then the underside and edges have Rustoleum primer and 2 coats of Marine Topside paint.

When I get finished, the top of the floor and the seat boards will also have primer and multiple coats of paint.

If you use flotation foam, I definitely recommend putting the plastic sheet over it to suppress the noise of any movement. Otherwise it squeaks like crazy.

As far as rivets, there are many places you can get them online, just google pop rivets and check out what comes up; broad head are best for the floor. Or maybe you have a Fastenal or similar store near you. The rivets I used are 3/16 dia. x 3/4 long. The broad head is 5/8 dia. You could probably get away with 1/2" length with the 1/4 plywood.

I just thought replacing the floor ply would make it a little easier on the feet esp. since I might be barefoot in the hot weather. I know the naked aluminum floor can be kind of painful if you step on the ribs.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

I have been making progress laying down coats of paint on the seat boards, supports and transom board. I had to order more marine primer for the floor (@$23.99/qt! I had considered cheaping out and getting Rusto's cheaper all-purpose primer, but after digging into the documentation, saw that is wasn't for applications subject to repeated wetting or standing water.
-------------------------
I just received a reply to an email I sent Rustoleum regarding this issue:

The Marine Primer was specifically formulated to adhere to wood and fiberglass
surfaces and to be compatible with our Marine Topside paints. Our CoverStain
primer can be applied to both wood and fiberglass surfaces, as well as PVC,
aluminum, etc. It also is designed to help block tannin stans and other bleed
that comes out of wood siding, shutters, etc. While the Marine Topside paints have not been tested over the CoverStain primer, I would not see any compatibility problems with this application.

Even though the "regular" primer is only $8.99/qt., in light of the conditions it will be subjected to, I'll bite the bullet and go with the marine primer.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

A lot can go wrong when you're painting!

The primer came in and I got a good coat laid down, then the next day started with the first coat of paint. I started and everything was going along pretty well, when suddenly a flurry of soot particles began descending on the wet paint. I couldn't figure out where the heck it was coming from, thinking that a neighbor might have started a fire in a wood stove or fireplace, when I realized it was coming from my own oil fired boiler.

So I went in and turned it off and finished that coat. After the paint was dry, I managed to vacuum a good portion of the soot off.

I mixed in the ground pumice and got a coat down. I have to say that the anti slip is gonna work great, I can tell already. Even though it's sort of hard to get the stuff evenly distributed using a roller, it's dry enough now that I can rub my hand over it and even in the thinner areas, it practically eliminates any slip, so I doubt people will be slipping on it when it has water on it.

I will apply the second coat with a brush, it's easier to control the distribution of the grit.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

The interior painting is finished. Here are some things I learned about Rustoleum and using anti-slip additive:

When lay down the anti-slip additive, I definitely recommend applying by brush rather than roller. With the brush, you can control the distribution of the grit a lot better. Also, put three coats on.

To summarize, the floor has:

2 coats of epoxy top, edges and bottom;

1 coat of Rustoleum Marine primer for wood and fiberglass all around;

2 coats of Rustoleum Marine topside paint all around.

Then on top of that, the top surface has three coats of paint with the grit added.

The rivets are all sealed with 3M 5200, as will be all screws needed for the seat board supports. Overall it's quite well sealed, I hope my efforts are rewarded with durability and longevity.

Brushing this on makes a weird swishing sound, like sweeping...great stuff though, I'm curious to see how it will hold up to use.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

The rear seat board gave me a little trouble on the port side because the holes didn't line up well. I think that's because my template was made from replacement boards from the PO rather than original, but I finally managed to get it all together.

I got all my SS fasteners, except the screws I used today for fastening the supports to the angle aluminum, from Boltdepot.com, they have everything. (I got all my angle, sheet and bar aluminum from onlinemetals.com) I like the locking nuts for the seat bolts:

This setup will be pretty solid, I think:

The anti-slip on the floor did tear up my knuckles pretty good during this work.

 

[lakelover]

Some dash thoughts

Some dash thoughts

I've thought about the dash quite a bit and researched materials, after deciding to not remove it to replace it. It comes down to covering it with something and I've had some thoughts but haven't settled on anything. The thickness is 3/4" now, and can't go over 1" thick in order to accommodate the mounting of the system check tach. The max. height in the center is 6-1/4" and it's about 52" wide.

All it's going to have mounted is the steering wheel, tach, a light switch, a bilge pump switch and a 12v outlet.

Here are some thoughts I've had:

1) Cover with same burgundy marine vinyl as my control board. A couple drawbacks I see to that are that I can't wrap the vinyl with out removing the board, which I won't do, so that leaves just gluing it down. Not sure how permanent that would be, esp. at the edges. I also have a concern about the vinyl fading in the sun.

2) I've thought about laminating something 1/4" thick or less over it. I don't want to spend an arm and a leg on this. I've looked at 1/4" thick hardwood plywood at Lowe's, but of course it is interior grade, not sure how it would hold up long term. I would cover it with many coats of spar varnish.

3) I've also found an online source for thin boards http://www.thinboards.com/ThinBoardsFrames.aspx that I can cut to the right size, for maybe $15-20, but since it would be oversize shipping, I don't want to get killed on that. I think that could easily double the cost, and they don't give shipping estimates. I haven't been able to locate anything similar locally.

I think it could work to glue on the 1/8" or even 1/4" thick stock though.

I've more of less ruled out lexan or plastics because of the cost, and I've never worked with those and don't have the tools, and not sure how I would attach it to the existing board anyway.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Today I started cleaning up the aluminum & vinyl trim. It's in rough shape but is cleaning up pretty well. I started by using a brass bristle brush to get the dirt and gunk out of the cracks and then used #0 steel wool. On some areas where it is pretty beat up after 46 years of use & abuse, I had to use 150 or even 80 grit sandpaper to work out some of the nicks, scratches and gouges. Overall, I like how it's coming along. I'll go over it all again with a finer steel wool to polish it up a little more.

I have to figure out something to clean up the rub rail because I don't want to replace it all.

Typical before:

Typical after:

I'm thinking that I'll probably just remove the side rub rails and leave them off. That'll make the painting a little easier, and I don't think they serve any real useful purpose anyway, located so low.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

I ordered the tach/system check gauge, bilge pump & switch, and a piece of 1/4" thick white oak for the dash board lamination. The oak (1/4" x 7" wide x 5 feet long) was $2.58/ft; I don't have the shipping charges on it yet, they bill separately for that. When the BRP tach/system check gauge arrived and glad to see that it will easily mount in a dash up to 1-1/4" thick, so mine will be no problem.

Today I worked more on getting the oxidation off the trim, and started cleaning up the white rub rail inserts. Once I found a good scrubbing combination for that, it worked a little better than I had hoped for. It's pretty grungy. I found that Soft Scrub and an SS pot scrubber works pretty well....but here is a better alternative from Harbor Freight, suggested by Woodonglass (thanks!):

Before & after of the rub rail insert:

 

[lakelover]

Trailer questions

Trailer questions

I mentioned earlier that I picked up a trailer last spring, and that it was slightly bent, and posted in the Trailer section with a couple questions. I got a few straightening suggestions there.

I went to a local body shop where I went to see if they could straighten it for me. They didn't really want to bother with the job, suggesting that it didn't look too serious and that I could probably bend it back enough using a 4x4 myself. After they explained it to me, it doesn't look too hard so I'll probably give it a try.

What concerned me more was that the guy said that he wouldn't put a 15' boat on it because of how small it is. I can't see his logic, I don't see any problem with the size. I couldn't find any plate on the trailer but the registration says it's rated for 1500 lbs. My hull, according to specs, is 415 lbs. and the motor is 200. Even with any other equipment, I'd be way under the 1500.

My plan is to replace the bunks with carpeted 2x4's and extend them so the transom will rest on them.

Another bigger concern is that there are two cracks in the back corner, top and bottom of the channel. I want to have them re-welded, and with those mods, I should be good to go. Or if need be, have small triangular plates welded on top and bottom at the corner.

 

[lakelover]

About as good as it's gonna get

About as good as it's gonna get

Well, I had pretty good success, in that the trailer is a little straighter and I didn't kill or maim myself doing it. And in the end, it only cost me $12 for a 10 foot 4x4. Lucky I had the tree, I can't tell you how many times I've considered cutting it down.

The setup:

The key to keeping everything from moving:

A second jack, compliments of my long-gone 1988 Chevy Nova hatchback:

Not perfect, but better than before:

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

After the final tweak...I'm going to leave well enough alone now.

After it was as straight as I could get it, my garage mechanic welded the corner cracks for $20.

 

[lakelover]

I took the tarp off today to start getting the boat off the trailer, and here's what I found all over my interior paint job. I guess I didn't vacuum well enough after using the steel wool on the aluminum & found rust all over the place. I don't plan to put another coat on at this point, so I guess I'll just try to clean it up best I can.

I spent the afternoon jacking up the boat and getting the old trailer out from under it so I can use it to build a frame on so I can flip it over for the winter, then painting next spring. Gotta love that Nova/Toyota jack, it's earning its way on to my list of favorite possessions, right along with duct tape and bungees! It jacks in a straight vertical line and has at least a foot of lift.

The "new" trailer underneath, looks like it will be a pretty good fit when I lower it:

Looking back, with a boat this light, I guess it would have been just as easy to push the boat off onto the ground, back up the new trailer, and winch it on. I didn't realize at the time how light and manageable this model is.

 

[lakelover]

Murphy again

Murphy again

A setback on the dash:

I got an email from the Thinboards.com site where I had ordered a nice piece of oak for my dashboard. After I waited for it to ship for over 2 weeks, I contacted them and they said that it had warped and it wasn't good enough to ship, and it was their last piece of 7" wide stock. They offered to glue together two boards to make me a 7" wide but I don't want a seam going across the middle, so I asked for a refund.

Now I have to decide on something else to laminate to the dash.

 

[lakelover]

Wind helps lower boat onto trailer

Wind helps lower boat onto trailer

My previous measurements for boat placement on the trailer were all off and I have to move the winch post toward the back again after having moved it forward. A couple more keel rollers, new bunks and some adjusting and I'll be all set.

The old trailer made into a yard dolly:

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

I went ahead and tried flipping it by myself and found out that one person can do it alone a lot easier than I thought. Don't know if you could with something heavier than a 15 footer though. I just used the trailer tilt and pushed it off onto the ground; the hardest part was the initial lift onto its side. Then balanced it while I walked around to the other side & lowered it onto the ground; lifted up one end at a time onto the frame & jockeyed it into position.

This is the first real good look that I've had at the bottom and for its age, there are no major dents to speak of, just plenty of scratches and scrapes. The biggest dent, about 2.5" diameter, is right on a rivet, so I'll pay close attention to that even though I've put Gluvit on the inside. The shape of the hull is great though.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

I would not invest in spraying equipment for your boat. Not when one can get such nice results from roll/tip (or roll/roll as the case may be). If you could borrow a buddy's compressor and then just had to buy a cheap spray gun well then that's different.

After a lot of research, I've decided to roll the paint on. Seeing what's available and reading lots of reviews, it just doesn't make sense for me to invest in spraying on such a small boat. Now I can start ordering my paint and supplies.

On to other things while I wait out winter....

For the last couple days, I've been polishing my windshield and some chrome and aluminum parts. Even though it is missing a hunk out of one corner

and has several stress marks you can see when the light hits if just right, I think I'll use it for now and maybe try making a new one when I get ambitious. Cleaning it up with polishing compound worked out pretty well. (pre-polish photo above)

I used the green abrasive ball from Harbor Freight on the aluminum for a nice brushed finish that hides the many imperfections better and a buffing wheel on the chrome. The Jetson light came out pretty good, but you can see that the bow light is pretty well pitted.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

More work on the windshield frame...it looked like a tree had fallen on it and besides this bend on the end, the top was bowed up in the middle by about 1/2".

After:

After reshaping the end with a vise, holding the channel open with pieces of metal, I clamped it onto my work table and carefully rebent the top bit by bit & checked with a straight edge. The work was very gradual because I was afraid it would suddenly kink with too much pressure, and I knew this would be difficult to impossible to replace. Finally got it straight along the top within about 1/8" and called it close enough.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

It was good to get outside today and do a little rubrail work. I tried a toilet cleaner/Comet/abrasive ball combo, but even with those nasty chemicals, the rubber was even nastier. I decided that it needed to come out for some real serious abrasive cleaning & got the idea that I could cut it by the bow cap and pull it out, which I did. I even pulled it a little at the back while I cut it at as much of an angle as I could, so it wouldn't end up with the cut showing when I put it back in:

It slid right out & was so grungy that I ended up attacking it by hand first with 60 grit sandpaper, then 150 and finally the dry abrasive ball to polish the up surface. I tried 220 with the orbital sander in a test spot, but that was way too aggressive. So by hand it had to be. It took quite a while but the results were worth it, but I got a surprise when I re-inserted it...it was too short! I thought if anything it would stretch from all the handling, but it shrunk. I can't fingure that out.

It was only just enough to be covered by the corner cap after I drilled a new hole for a new screw.

Before & after:

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

I discovered later it was a big mistake to cut the rub rail. The length changes quite a bit with the temperature, sometimes it looks OK, sometimes it has a big gap in the front. Still trying to figure out why it was originally installed with such a stretch to it. I'm probably going to have to replace it.

I had some more thoughts on the transom height. I got an accurate measurement from the mounting bracket down to the cavitation plate, and it comes to just about 19". You can see from the photo, when I do get it trimmed in so it is pretty much vertical, it will measure just about 19", the recommended height in the Johnson's owner's manual.

At this point, I can adjust the transom height from what it is now, 20.5", down to 19" by cutting down the top of the board with a band saw. If I do that, thecavitation plate should be just about even with the bottom at the keel, and I would be able to raise it if needed by using the different mounting holes in the bracket.

I really want to get this right the first time so I don't have to take it apart and do it again later.

 

[lakelover]

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

Re: 1964 15' Starcraft Aluminum Runabout Project

As I work on stripping the hull, I've had a change of plan. I've decided to just strip the hull bottom to bare aluminum because the paint and primer layers are really on there. It's been taking 2-3 applications of the stripper on each section to get it really clean, and this is hard-working stuff. I've found that the scraper and wire brush together are the most effective removal tools; I can scrape the broader areas between the rivets and then wire brush around them for a final cleanup.

I tested a small spot on the side and that paint is not only solid, but it's in a lot better condition than the bottom paint. I have what I need for painting the bare aluminum, and will just have to get the correct primer for going over the sanded existing paint on the sides.

This represents about 8 hours work over 3 or 4 sessions.

Otherwise, I've been working on the trailer adding a centering rear roller, adjusting the fenders & replacing parts.

The stripping is coming along faster and this is my new favorite stripper (in the orange can):

I paid the extra $4 for this stuff and it's well worth it. It's much faster working. I found that this also requires more careful protection as it really burns if you get any on you. Had to add a long sleeve shirt and gloves to my garb in addition to the eye protection that is ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY when using any of this stuff.

So the stripping is about 90% finished, then on to the sanding.