1962 Evinrude Starflite IV 75hp no spark HELP!

MagnoliaBoater

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Jun 9, 2021
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Okay folks. Please please please I need some help on this one. I have a 1960 Magnolia Cruiser with a 1962 Evinrude Starflite IV 75hp on it. Model # 50529
Here’s the backstory.
I bought the boat a few years ago, love the look of the boat and motor combo. Took a little doing but I was able to get the motor running and was out having fun days at the like for awhile. Sometimes while out on the lake we would start having issues. Usually it would run great but sometimes after running it for awhile and shutting it off I would have a hard time starting again. At the time I was a little stumped. I thought maybe it was flooding? Maybe overheating?
The last time I had the boat out was a couple years ago and it started running rough and then died. Wouldn’t start, towed back to the dock and loaded it up and back home. Not a great day.

Now I’m trying to get the old girl back on the water but having some issues. I have it turning over. Got fuel in the carb. But no spark. Spark plugs look okay. I replaced them when I first got the boat and haven’t run them much.

I guess my general question is how to go down the list of checking for what could be causing this?
The points look good and everything is clean and nice in there. I’m thinking maybe the coil is the culprit? That would make sense with it failing intermittently when it gets hot right?
on this specific model the coil is a little different than others I have seen. Ill include pics. How could I check the coil with it still on the motor? And if I do find that to be the culprit can one of you guys tell me how to remove it? It’s not immediately obvious how it’s attached. I tried removing the 2 screws on either side but it still seemed stuck in there. Also, it looks like NOS coils for this model are running about 100 bucks. Sheesh!!! Would really like to be sure that’s what it is before I consider replacing it. Or if there are any aftermarket coils that might be a substitute would love to hear about that.
Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions you can offer!
 

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racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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25,572
That is the simple magneto.----A wonderful device.-----Steps to take.-----Mark the belt timing.----Remove the magneto.-----Replace the condenser.----Replace points if badly pitted.---Replace rotor.----Test it before you put it back on the motor.----Spinning it by hand should produce a small electrical storm.----Install distributor cap and test again for spark on each lead.----Should jump a gap of 5/16" with ease.-----Install on the motor and make sure belt timing is the same again.
 

racerone

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And there are 2 similar looking rotors on the shelf.----One for the magneto unit and one for the battery powered distributor.
 

MagnoliaBoater

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Jun 9, 2021
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Look closely at the rotor.
The rotor looked pretty good. I lightly sanded the contacts on the nub and the bottom and the distributor contacts as well to see if that helped. They are now clean. But didn’t solve my issue. I had heard sometimes small holes can cause a short in the rotor. Didn’t see anything that looked out of whack to me though. I guess if the condenser doesn’t do anything I’ll try that next.
 

MagnoliaBoater

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Jun 9, 2021
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That is the simple magneto.----A wonderful device.-----Steps to take.-----Mark the belt timing.----Remove the magneto.-----Replace the condenser.----Replace points if badly pitted.---Replace rotor.----Test it before you put it back on the motor.----Spinning it by hand should produce a small electrical storm.----Install distributor cap and test again for spark on each lead.----Should jump a gap of 5/16" with ease.-----Install on the motor and make sure belt timing is the same again.
Just ordered a new condenser. Should be in next week.
If that doesn’t work should I suspect the coil itself is to blame?
Is there a simple way to test that the coil is good on this setup. I have seen plenty of people testing coils but not with this one in particular and I’m not exactly sure how to test it or what to looks for.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 28, 2013
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Perhaps a local shop with a grey haired wrench turner has a ----MERC-O-TRONIC-magneto analyzer.------That can be used to fully test the coil , condenser , rotor and cap.----You can not find a pin holes in the rotor with your vision.
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
Messages
24,207
Inspect the coil for cracks. They will be obvious. Replace coil if cracked.

Leave the distributor cap off and check for spark at the brass button on the coil. With a slow spin of the distributor pulley, the spark will give you a good jolt. You will be immediately convinced that the motor has good spark.

If you then install the distributor cap and you have weak or no spark, you know that the fault lies in the rotor, cap or wiring.
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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Nope ----You want to see the lightning storm on a test device.---Set the gap at about 1/4".-----Easy to make a test device with wire glued on cardboard.
 

MagnoliaBoater

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Jun 9, 2021
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Nope ----You want to see the lightning storm on a test device.---Set the gap at about 1/4".-----Easy to make a test device with wire glued on cardboard.
I checked the spark from the bottom button on a spark tester. It seemed to work just fine.
My next question is how to get the pulley off the top of the shaft. Should I use a puller on it? Just wanted to make sure before I go tugging on it.
I suppose that has to come off to get to the points and condenser for easier replacement.

got a new rotor and condenser on the way and ordered a NOS coil as well. It was a good price so I figured I pick up a spare for insurance.
If I do need to replace that coil, how is it removed?
 

racerone

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Dec 28, 2013
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As I recall the pulley just slides off once you undo the nut.----With the magneto on your work bench the coil comes out fairly easily.
 

Chris1956

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Mar 25, 2004
Messages
24,207
Distributor pully is on tapered shaft and has a woodruff key. Pry up gently with a screwdriver and tap the loosened nut and she should pop off.

Coil is held in distributor body with 2 screws and sheet metal clamps.
 
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