1950's Wagemaker Wolverine wooden boat restoration ...

[sphelps]

No chance really of takinging it outside .. I could heat up the shop though ..

 

[Woodonglass]

Heat and Air. Put a fan on it

 

[sphelps]

Ok, most of the wood I think will look good with no stain . But I'm not real pleased with the inside of the hull veneer..
After the bleaching I think it is just to light . I want it to match the outside a bit more to give a little more contrast and less splotchyness to the lighter trim .. I was thinking on tinting the OTF maybe .. Has anyone tried this ? I am going to a woodcraft store here in town for some more bleach and they have all sorts of tints in stock ..
If I could just get past these squirrel running around in my brain I might get this thing done ! LOL!!!
Might be better to just stain what I want first then use the OTF ...

 

[oldrem]

I would think a tint might give you a blotchy staining. Personally, I would use a pre-stain treatment, then stain, then OTF

 

[sphelps]

I think your right rem , I got some pre-stain conditioner yesterday along with some stain ..

 

[sphelps]

Not using the stain I got . Mahogany medium brown .. Looks way to red for my liking ..Needs to be more brown to match the outside of the hull . Funny they must have used 2 different types of veneer for the hull .. I epoxied in the 2 bad bunk damage spots with a scrap piece of cloth I had and I noticed a split or crack starting down the center next to the stringer . Only had some 1708 so I cut and glassed a strip over it .. The tape is roughly the paint line for the bottom ..

 

[qcfire]

Cool boat!

 

[sphelps]

Thanks qcfire !

Hey , what’s the deal on the temps for eeeeepoxy ?
Is it like poly 60 deg or higher ? Believe it or not it was actually below 60 in the garage this afternoon !
Its like the start of the next ” Ice Age “ or something down here ! :suspicious:
I didn’t want to chance plus I got a late start on doing any epoxy so I started stripping and sanding the seat benches this afternoon ...

 

[Ned L]

When I rebuilt my boat I thought the mahogany stain was to red too so I knocked the red down with a second coat using Minwax brown mahogany stain. Sometimes it takes a bit of creativity.
That reminds me about when I redid our kitchen a good number of years ago and needed to match the new maple cabinets in color. I ended up figuring out that if I brushed on some apple spice tea before staining I ended up with a perfect match after staining (the tea added just the right level of red.)

 

[sphelps]

Spice tea ? LOL ! That’s a new one .. Whatever it takes I guess !
I took the stain back and exchanged it for IIRC American Walnut brown . With a little of the reducer I think it will match up good .. I’m really looking forward to start making this old gal shine !

 

[sphelps]

This was the stain I got along with there reducer ..But the Walnut color .
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/...21f469702d06760016d0,5764234669702d6593003339

 

[archbuilder]

stain always takes some tweaking since its translucent, looking forward to seeing what you come up with!

 

[mickyryan]

good to see you still moving along , i keep looking out at mine from heat inside and going maybe tomorrow .... just too cold for me to do anything on it it was like 49 high yesterday! not sure how anyone deals with cold , lol

 

[Woodonglass]

Since you've already OTR'd the wood the Polyurethane has pretty much sealed the pores so staining it will yield inconsistent coloring. I'd recommend mixing and using a wood dye

https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/dyes-pigments

 

[sphelps]

Mike I have not sealed the wood with the OTF yet ..
I picked up some pre-stain wood conditioner that I was going to use before the stain .
then the OTF before varnish .
Am I on the right track ?

 

[Woodonglass]

The OTF is very similar to a Pre Stain Conditioner. Just has more Poly in it for sealing better. A PSC does the same in that it partially seals the wood pores and makes them take stain more consistently. OTF pretty much totally seals the pores and staining would not work very well. Since it's still unsealed and if you want a brownish stain, I'd just add a 4 parts Golden Oak and 1 Part Walnut ratio of stain directly to the OTR and then apply to a test area and make adjustments to the formula. Add more walnut to make darker less to make lighter. I'd start with 1/2 teaspoons first.

 

[sphelps]

The OTF is very similar to a Pre Stain Conditioner. Just has more Poly in it for sealing better. A PSC does the same in that it partially seals the wood pores and makes them take stain more consistently. OTF pretty much totally seals the pores and staining would not work very well. Since it's still unsealed and if you want a brownish stain, I'd just add a 4 parts Golden Oak and 1 Part Walnut ratio of stain directly to the OTR and then apply to a test area and make adjustments to the formula. Add more walnut to make darker less to make lighter. I'd start with 1/2 teaspoons first.

A couple things ..Seeing as I am just planning to stain part of the boat It should be fine to just use the PSC on that and stain as normal ...That way I dont have to split up my OTF to add tint or stain to the OTF ... After stain I could then spray OTF on the whole boat before varnish ..
Also the instructions on the Epifanes varnish says to thin the first couple of coats then follow up full strength ..
If I use the OTF then I may not need to thin the varnish for the first coats ...
I guess it wouldn't really matter if it soaked in and dried sufficiently ..IDK...

 

[zool]

If I use the OTF then I may not need to thin the varnish for the first coats ...
I guess it wouldn't really matter if it soaked in and dried sufficiently ..IDK...

Thinning of the first couple coats isnt just to seal, and it will be already sealed with the OTF, its also because you want a level base to start off with, the undiluted additional coats can go on a bit lumpy or wavy, so u sand between coats...you dont want to have to sand between the base coats or u keep getting back to wood

 

[Woodonglass]

If you're gunna use PSC then I'm not so sure you'd need the OTF. Epiphanes is a GREAT marine varnish and 2-3 full strength coats of it should be more than enuf to seal the wood. Remember, You're only staining about 1/16" of wood. The lamination resin stops the stain from penetrating into the inner layers.

 

[sphelps]

Gunna try and post . Don’t know if the forum is acting strange with you guys or not .
‘Still striping and sanding the seats and seat backs .. Have discovered the seats are actually cedar and not mohogany ...
The smell while sanding gave it away ! You just can’t mistake that smell
So I think I will make the slat flooring out of cedar ...
I need to get a wood planer .. Couple of the pieces of the seat back could be replaced ...I guess a planer is something you don’t use all the time but sure would come in handy when you need it ...