1950's Wagemaker Wolverine wooden boat restoration ...

sphelps

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Zool
the reducer is the ESR300 or for higher temps the ESR310 .
So after some reading I believe at 26-29 psi at gun should be around 10 at the cap . HVLP
Just tried a little wet sanding with 320 . No gumming up so will do that and pick up some reducer tomorrow .
‘So at least one more coat then let the hair go with the hide !
 

zool

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I set the gun pressure at 30+- and play with the adjustments til it atomizes without too much bounce back.....with the HF guns,I set at 35-40+ to atomize.
 

jbcurt00

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Looks great so far from WV Sam. Planning to make Dora in the spring?
 

sphelps

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Looks great so far from WV Sam. Planning to make Dora in the spring?

That’s what I’m shooting for !:) If at all possible .... Booking a campsite just down the street .The Admiral seems really into it so it should be fun !
 

mickyryan

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It’s the 3 part single stage urethane Delfleet . Not sure why I can’t get the pressure over 28 through the gauge ..
I guess the little brass ones fro hf aren’t rated that high Idk . Maybe I could remove the adjustment regulator and adjust at the compressor if I could rig just the gauge at the gun .. Or find a better regulator ..

use regulator at gun i use the same hd assembly it works fine, when i sprayed that paint the first looked like yours then i reduced it and it layed out like glass using urethane reducer at 10% i sprayed at 25 about 6 " from the boat
 

sphelps

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Success !
I remembered that I had some specialty reducer that I bought a good while back and used that at 10% .
And I went smaller to a 1.3 tip flowed out real nice other than one really bad run on the bow . Grrrrrrr!
I just had enough paint for one good coat .
Hate to cut and buff but with that run and a few other tiny pits I don’t like I guess it will need it ...
yeah Mick Iremember we talked about the reducer when you were painting .
I should have used it from the start .
 

zool

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Just use a nib cutter on the run, then buff just that area....save urself alot of work....its the bottom of the boat:rolleyes:
 

sphelps

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Ok I guess next step is to install those metal strips to the bottom of the hull . I painted them along with the hull so there ready to go . Gunna use 5200 to bed the strips in but will use 4200 to seal up the bolts . My son helped me jack the boat up some to gain access under it .. Will have to have him help with the installation also . Definataly a 2 man job for sure .
I need to find I guess an aluminum keel strip for the bow . The bow stem if that’s what you call it gets smaller going up to the bow eye . Not real sure how I’m gunna tackle that .. I guess I could trim the strip to fit somehow . Any idea’s on the best way to cut the taper ? Thinking on just using a 3/4” x 1/4” flat stock and round the edges a little .
Also time to start thinking about stain and varnish .. Been looking into filler stains and thinking that’s the way I will go .
‘I think I read somewhere that filler stain will cover epoxy .. The reason I say that is I need to do something with the transom where the P.O. had installed that bracket and the wood has a depression that is kinda ugly .
My thought was to place multiple layers of glass in the dip to bring it back level with the rest of the plywood .
Or could I just build up the varnish . Idk...
 

Woodonglass

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Sam, several years ago when I was REALLY into Glen-L builds, I saw a build where a guy made his own Polished Aluminum Breasthook and Stem guard. I've tried to find it and so far no luck. Best memory says he made a paper pattern of the sides of the stem shape and the top of the V Bow and cut 1/4" aluminium. He welded it on the inside seams and then sanded to shape and polished. Glued and riveted to hull. Similar to this... I think it was for the "Zip" or the "Malahini" but can't seem to find it. I'll keep looking. Is this what you're talking about or am I off base?

Click image for larger version  Name:	Stem Guard.JPG Views:	1 Size:	12.1 KB ID:	10645209
 

sphelps

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Mike it’s really just a flat or rounded strip of metal that fastened on the front edge of stem and runs down partially down the keel .. total width around 3/4 but the higher up on the stem it gets smaller .
 

Ned L

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You are looking for S.S. rub rail material. It comes either pre-drilled or un-drilled. 3/4" is the standard width. i
It will take a bit of work to grind it narrower in a nice straight line.

71-SOL-553412.jpg
 

sphelps

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Yes cutting the SS would not be easy that’s why I was thinking about aluminum
 

Woodonglass

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Yeah if that's the case, I'd make my own from 1/4" aluminium flat bar. You can polish it and clear coat it and it'll look like chrome!!
 

Scott Danforth

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12"chop saw, 4.5" angle grinder, DA, and buffing wheel...the tools you need to cut stainless and then buff it to a mirror finish
 

sphelps

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Been working on the stem gaurd strip most of the day ...My arms and my back are hurting !
I just picked up a flat aluminum stock from hd . 8’ x 3/16” ..
gut it cut on the tapper and rounded the edge .. Working down the sandpaper now .. The Admiral is in town and gunna pick me up some Mothers ...
Did I mention my back hurts .. I got 2 BCpowders left in the medicine cabinet that have my name on them ...:faint:
Hope everyone is having a great Labor Day weekend !
 
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