1910 trophy Bayliner

fisheymikey

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there was a piece of pine exceeding like a little stringer and glass over it
 

Woodonglass

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I'd recommend filling with the filler of your choice and glassing over them. You don't want to leave em hollow. If you hit an underwater object they could be fractured easily with no backup material.
 

Arawak

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Dad and I just used spray foam to "glue" the cut foam into the chines. There's also a foam board adhesive, but I don't know how well it would work for this.
 

fisheymikey

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that's sound a qucker solution.. did you use the window and door or the max expansion?
 

fisheymikey

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ok guys here is my first fiberglass layup...

did see a couple air bubbles... i guess i grind them off and lay a few strips?

please dont be to hard on me but still want the truth hahaha
 

fisheymikey

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Hi everyone here is my setup for tomorrows stringer instalation. i will be using PL for the glueing to the hull.

hope someone chimes in before tomorrow morning. i currently have a force 125 that runs good but maybe i want to upgrade to a 135 optimax the difference of weight is about 120lbs it seems to me a huge difference would my new transom have enough strength to endure the oceans waves? also im having a buddy of mine making me a "armstrong" bracket type. i figure its going to weigh another 50-60lbs.

i feel the weight is pretty significant.. any suggestion will be greatly appreciated


thanks

mike
 

Arawak

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Hi everyone here is my setup for tomorrows stringer instalation. i will be using PL for the glueing to the hull.

hope someone chimes in before tomorrow morning. i currently have a force 125 that runs good but maybe i want to upgrade to a 135 optimax the difference of weight is about 120lbs it seems to me a huge difference would my new transom have enough strength to endure the oceans waves? also im having a buddy of mine making me a "armstrong" bracket type. i figure its going to weigh another 50-60lbs.

i feel the weight is pretty significant.. any suggestion will be greatly appreciated

I would definitely overbuild the crap out of transom... IMO Bayliner did not build in a lot of margin. I have the same concern. At some point my FrankenChrysler will need to be replaced and the modern engines are, bizarrely, so much heavier.

Weight is going to be a bigger factor than horsepower. The other thing you'll need to consider is centre of gravity. You might want to consider ways to move some weight forward to compensate.

BTW, what year is your Force? If it's early enough there may be a lot of parts in common with my FrankenChrysler. If you're going to sell it let me know.
 
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Woodonglass

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1 1/2" transom will carry the load OK then. I think I see that your 2 center stringers have height extensions at the transom. If that's correct then that's even better. Get good tabbings to the transom at those locations and you'll be good to go.;)
 

fisheymikey

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I would definitely overbuild the crap out of transom... IMO Bayliner did not build in a lot of margin. I have the same concern. At some point my FrankenChrysler will need to be replaced and the modern engines are, bizarrely, so much heavier.

Weight is going to be a bigger factor than horsepower. The other thing you'll need to consider is centre of gravity. You might want to consider ways to move some weight forward to compensate.

BTW, what year is your Force? If it's early enough there may be a lot of parts in common with my FrankenChrysler. If you're going to sell it let me know.

its 1988 force 125 143 psi on all 4. she runs great for know but want to keep my options open or a great deal on the optimax




1 1/2" transom will carry the load OK then. I think I see that your 2 center stringers have height extensions at the transom. If that's correct then that's even better. Get good tabbings to the transom at those locations and you'll be good to go.;)

i hope your right. it seams very solid. also with adding the ''Wings"" on the transom. yes they are a 10'' stringer to add strenght
 
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fisheymikey

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here is the progress so far...

all fillets are done, all tabbing on stringers..

do i cap the stringers with 1708 or is it easier with 1.5 oz CM? i have read you grab the 1.5 and crumple it up for it to lay better over the coutours. here is my predicament were the "tall" part of the stringers go i have plywood finishing there. should i still cap that or leave it for pl to adhere better. or should i PB it instead.

also the bottom of the hull had a good amount removed... should i lay down a few layers of 1708? or CM?

thanks for the helps guys really appreciate
 

fisheymikey

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here are now the bulhead aattached with PB... next waterproofing with CSM
 

kcassells

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Looking real Sweet FisheyM!
-You will need to seal the tops of the stringers with resin. I would use PB to apply deck to stringers. If the deck is directly on top of the stringers I don't think they need to be capped. I believe they need to be capped if they are "Exposed". But Double check with WOG and here is his version below.
Adding more reinforcement is always better than not in regards to the hull. I would use 1708 and csm on top of exposed stringers.

stringers-revised.jpg
 

kcassells

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Yup, I;d recommend capping them with a layer of Tug and torn CSM.


Same with EEEpoxy application? Just wondering.That csm drives me crazy! Might just, if I have to based on your reply cut a strip of 1700, glass it to the top of the stringer then grind off the rough edges, then pb stringers to deck.
 

Woodonglass

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Same with EEEpoxy application? Just wondering.That csm drives me crazy! Might just, if I have to based on your reply cut a strip of 1700, glass it to the top of the stringer then grind off the rough edges, then pb stringers to deck.


Nope EEEEEPoxy doesn't need the CSM to keep the resin from cracking open sooo a couple of coats of resin on top of the stringers is just fine. Run the glass to the top of the sides of the stringers and you're fine. That's My Opinion. Others may differ.
 
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