flywheel/crank doesn't use "key".. will only go on one way... have you "turned" any screws that would change any thing related to idle speed, idle timing, and or wot timing?.. do you have a oem manual?.. get a spray bottle with a "pre mix" (50 ta 1) fuel in it.. squirt it in tha carb throats...
"The older models wired direct to switchboxes"
guess that shows my age, huh.. never traded, bought and/or installed a 16 amp OEM (34's, 35's, 36's, 66's) stator "with an extra wire"................
jus another reason i quite that sickness!.........
has tha poppet ever been serviced/replaced?.. why not start with a NEW poppet assembly???.. not that expensive.. if ya have some minor "pitting" a little JB and time (elbow grease) will do tha job of filling marks in.
some of tha guts made a slight change over tha years but in all of 'em tha...
think you'll be fine with it.. i do know that a production efi fuel delivery is justa an "add on" ta any of tha 2.5's.....
let us know what ya find jus ta satisfy my curiosity!!!..
you can look it over really good.. tha basic "rotating assembly" (both block halves, pistons rods and crank may still be tha same???.. still justa a 2.5 block assy... if both blocks are 2003 they should be tha same whether efi or carb... they don't build a separate efi block anda separate carb...
tha XR6 and 2.5 efi rotating assembly are tha same.. front half and block half of both 150's are tha same.. you only need ta change tha reed plate to tha efi reed plate (reeds are same also) as for any any "block" assembly parts are concerned.. tha rest is "bolt on" efi parts.. ie: efi assy...
ya need ta check out tha crank shaft splines... that looks bad enough ta mess those up to... might need ta change out crank.. wouldn't worry with anything else.. all 2.0/2.4/2.5 (carb, efi, opti) gearcases will interchange.. only difference will be in gear ratio's......
yeah, thats tha way it does after tha motor is warm.. doesn't effect it much when cold.. takes a lotta fuel ta start a "cold" motor.. not so much after it warmed.
see this post.. same applies to ANY of 'em.. mech. fuel pump is a known culprit with issue you are having...
https://forums.iboats.com/threads/1998-mariner-200hp-2-stroke-starting-and-idling-issues.739696/
set for that length of time creates a lotta reasons it won't do things its supposed to...
yes, you should get an alarm.. do you get tha three (sounds like two dots and a dash) self check beeps when you turn tha key on?
pre mix fuel and oil (50 ta 1) in remote tank till ya get it runnin'...
oil and/or oiler stuff has nothin' ta do with it startin'.... it will start without any oil what so ever if tha rest of tha motor is ok...
not keepin' motor tank up ta snuff can be 'bout 3 things.. dirty screen in bottom pick up of main (in boat) tank.. pulse valve (right below tha starter)...
ya might wanna figure out what ya got first.. different gear ratios.. 2.0 motors have 2 ta one.. 2.4/2.5's most have 1.87 ta one except XR4 and some XR6's have 1.78 ta one.. Make sure it doesn't have a pre-load pin stickin' out tha top of drive shaft..... although they all will bolt up.
yeah.. not all have it there.. if not there or on tha port side block half flange its probably a replacement powerhead.. they don't get a serial number.. it will have a production date on it though so you can verify year.. it will be on tha flange or at tha base of number 2 cyl. on tha block...
at the very minimum its' a '91 or newer (block design).. i'd venture ta say its later than '91 'cause tha carbs do not have external pumps on 'em.. might check here for serial number (pic below).. some do and some don't have it there?.. looks ta have an FF stamped on block half?.. there should...
