Alternator belt or alternator itself, possibly.
Do the voltage checks at battery when running. Should be a min of 13.8V when on fast idle and under load. If it is good, then back to the connections checks.
Was belt loose / squealing?
mercury service manual 90-814705R03
https://www.scribd.com/doc/76275169/Merc-Controls-Newest-Manual#
Shows the repair / maintenance on older ones too.
I have the PDF version, but it's big at 25 meg and won't upload to here.
But, fuel economy is a big point. Mine has the 3L Twin Turbo putting out 404 hp, and if I do my part, it gets 36 mpg highway. Has gone as high as 40 mpg in a 25 mile stretch of flat road (when switched to 4 cyl operation).
2018 Caddy CT6 Platinum. Had someone bang a door against it and put in small dent (BTW, same thing happens on steel bodies too). Was easily removed by a guy that does paintless dent removal and he said it was super easy to massage out. Car still looks like the day it was new.
Some vehicles with...
Heck, not just the suspension parts. My car's frame and body are all aluminum, too.
Have no concerns with strength or usability.
Biggest worry is cost of body repair, since guys that work on aluminum vehicles are far and few between.
I see your drive is an Alpha. Since raw water pump is in drive, can run for a very sort period with drive off.
If it was a Bravo, the pump would be on engine and a few seconds the pump will burn up the impeller with no water supplied.
"electric discs" are actually hydraulic with an Electric over Hydraulic pump package.
As I stated before, that setup with Kodiac discs would be the best IMHO
Are you talking about a "crows foot" adapter on the torque wrench instead of a socket? If so, then the calibration changes considerably, since there is a distance from the square hub and the center point of the bolt.
Just adding length to the TW handle changes nothing about the torque applied...
Pull plugs and it will spin much faster.
I would be focusing toward coupler, ignition components (seen too many of these bad out of the box, especially plugs / gap, to dismiss) or carb. Are ignition components OEM / name brand or generic from Amazon or ebay? Hard to tell
I wouldn't discount the ignition system / injectors (if you have them) as too many solved mysterious vibration / rough operation have been problems with either of these.
All was perfect before the engine replacement? If so, then has to be engine or else something, besides engine, was damaged or...
