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I’m not against something other than the 3.0L but I do like them due to being cheap to maintain and I have some parts. As far as getting something tin, one in a bowrider configuration really hasn’t been available since the 80’s. I’d really have to just keep working on the Offshore V 18 I have...

How about a 1999 Bayliner 1950 BR? Is that a safe no frills good enough boat? I found one that the owner stores indoors. It looks pretty good, and he’s added some fishing accessories, but still hasn’t detracted from its pleasure boat usability. I know I’d have to inspect it good, but know what...

You can. You need to jump 12v to the main feed power to the ECU which should be purple, and then activate power to the starter . It should run that way.

eBay. It indeed looks like $25 will buy one. I think I gave $50ish 3 years ago

I’m still thinking about this. Bayliner 185 and 175’s are all pretty inexpensive. I found a ‘13 185 with the jump seats that can convert into a sun pad, and I think a little creativity I could hide some rod holders and down rigger mounts to make it dual purpose.

Originally many of the small StarCraft and other tin boats had a small plywood section under the motor. It doesn’t really need to be there. When I re did my Holiday 14 I did elect to put one back. Doing it again, I would use Coosa.

What about putting a built in fuel tank under the bow? I know some say that will raise performance. A 12 gallon tank is about the same cost and I know some people say getting weight up front can give better performance

Yes. You won’t need the transom assembly unless it’s in better shape since they are the same. But it would give you a good idea of transom condition if you do

Yes, but I think I’ll get more bottom end out of it. The old 40hp twin actually wasn’t much faster if at all than the 25hp is, but the bottom end got a bit softer. I had to run a prop with more slip vs the one that came on the motor to make it run up to RPM spec, but that prop did have better...

DOH. It was early when I wrote it and I was surfing IPL’s at the same time. It’s an EFI engine. DF25A and the only difference is the spark arrestor is a restrictor on the 25hp and the money part is the different ECU. I just want clarification on the part numbers so I get the right one. It does...

I’ve decided that I’ll just run my little boat this year and possibly spend a couple of weekends on the big boat and see if I can get it good enough to launch. But I have always wanted to convert the 25hp to the full 30HP. I would have bought it that way but Suzuki doesn’t build a 30 in a...

There is a 1978 Sylvan Sportster 18 listed for $6,200 that looks like it’s in great shape. It would be a very close cousin to my Offshore V 18 ( that has the list ). It’s got pretty mint looking mustard/ puke yellow interior which says something but being so old and original it’s suspect just...

What year did they become wood free? Big StarCraft probably needs 40 hours of work to really be ready but if I omit the paint and fixing seats, half that probably. Little StarCraft just needs to be gone through as it wasn’t used last year

Have actually 2 since all I really like is StarCraft. Problem is big boat still needs a laundry list including paint, wiring , some assembly and tidying the back to back lounge seats need new plywood framing. comes down to cost vs enjoyment time. I’m not really sold on either idea, but my 14’...

If I end up getting one I’ll be sure to.

I didn’t get out boating last year. Never worked on my big StarCraft and never got the little one out even once. The big StarCraft needs the outdrive hooked up and a bunch of wiring. I’ve been seeing Bayliner 175’s pop up in the marketplaces in the $3-5k range with the $5k boats looking pretty...

Repairable, but it’s a pile of scrap the way it is.

I bought a trailer from a local marine shop cheaper new than I could have refurbished a used one into shape. He discounted it heavily for me. It was well below MSRP and anything comparable too.

It’s induction. It’s an alternator essentially. Several factors could be contributing. Even A/C voltage spikes or dirty power after the rectifier. It could have trouble starting as there isn’t a lot of current to go around, but once running there is sufficient charge. The main thing is that...

Pretty sure that’s a battery less EFI which runs directly off a stator. If that has an issue bringing voltage up to the ECU it may cause it to struggle. EFI 20hp should start with one or 2 strong pulls. I wonder if the stator is weak. There are other causes for hard start. But would help...