Recent content by km1125

Did you get this sorted out? I have a BF8 and can look and take pictures of what you need.

Figure out how long it needs to run before it runs out of fuel. Then you shut off the fuel or pull the fuel hose off the engine before you get to the dock so it only has to idle a couple minutes (and run out of fuel) while you're tying up or getting ready to pull the boat.

This is an old post... but just in case someone is looking for info... I'm not familiar with that model, but most of the smaller Tohatsu motors (as well as Mercs and Nissan) have a "decompression" feature that relieves compression below about 200 RPM. So you'll get a low compression reading...

You could easily make something with some 2" or 3" webbing (looks like lightweight seatbelt material) that you can get on Amazon. two loops, one going forward on the leg and one rearward of the leg, with both of them tied together on top of the motor.

I definitely use synthetic, but a thicker oil (80-90w) isn't going to be any kind of measurable difference in soaking up power. The larger gears aren't turning that fast to make a difference, and they're pretty small gears anyways (relatively speaking).

I'd say a pump issue (faulty or dirty valves?), or you've got an air leak between the bulb and the pump.

That would really surprise me. I don't believe the CDI has any temperature input, so it would not have different circuits for when the engine is cold or warm. That means the problem should still (even if intermittently) show up when warm.

Not sure exactly which engine you have. Here are the diagrams that work with the BF75 (8HP) and BF100 (10HP). Depending on the year (or serial #) it could be a points system or CDI

Yea, I'm confused too. You should not have to move the lower case to replace the impeller, or do the 'whole' water pump kit.

Can't help you on the BF15, but a while ago I poked around on the Internet enough and eventually found a chart for the BF10 series (or 9.9)

It's possible the reverse lock clamp (#36 in pic) is either bent or just needs to be lubricated. It is pushed up by the lower shift rod through a hole in the housing when the lower unit is in DRIVE, so that the motor can kick up if it hits something. When shifted to neutral or reverse, the...

One way to check if the vent is actually working... open the vent and put weight on the tank** (just lean on the top with body weight). You should hear air hissing out, and then when you remove your weight the air should hiss back in and the tank revert to it's original shape. If it...

What motor are you talking about? 3.5HP? 5HP? 20HP? You're not going to get decent answers unless folks know which model is being discussed.

Have you used an IR gun on the motor to see how hot its actually getting before it shuts down? And is it shutting down itself, or is that when you shut it down when you're done using it?

You might want to post this in the "Honda & Tohatsu/Nissan Outboards" section. Those motors are built by Tohatsu for Mercury. It is an older vintage of that model, judging by the shift on the side. Some internal pictures would tell more, as they changed the ignition design from the initiol...