1992 18ft Bayliner Capri restoration

[GongshowBayliner92]

Picked up a 92 Bayliner Bayliner for next to nothing to restore. Have already removed the outboard built a stand and threw a battery and throttle on it just in case I need them. Removed some of the interior and as I expected needs a new transom and stringers, as these boats weren't the best built. The fiberglass resin was peeling off the floor like paint. Will also need some gel coat repair. My question is for the fuel tank. I'm assuming it's the original tank from 92. How long are the life on these tanks (it is a standard plastic tank) ? When I pulled up the floor there was a lot of black wet material, which dried to a black film the next day. My only assumption is that this was either mold and water or the gas tank may have been leaking, I'm not entirely sure as I'm not anywhere close to an expert on fuel tanks. There is no odour and the fuel lines are intact.

 

[alldodge]

If tank doesn't show cracking it should be good. You could pressure test the tank with a hand tire pump to 3 psi. Don't use much pressure, it will turn into a bomb.

As for the black, it's probably mold, so try to protect your self from breathing it in. Only takes a little water/moisture for it to start

 

[GongshowBayliner92]

No worries, full respirator already in use. I will post some pics when I pull the tank and the result of the test.

 

[GongshowBayliner92]

The -40 weather came early and put a screaming halt to plans. Floor is now up and tank out. Foam was full of ice crystals, lots of moisture. Tank is fine .work continues. Next is figuring out how to support the hull so I can remove the cap, foam then sand and replace the stringers

 

[alldodge]

Always so much work.

Going to need a good size lift to get the cap off. If you know someone with a tractor or wrecker, that could do it. Another thought is cut the sides and just remove the rear half.

 

[jbcurt00]

.....how to support the hull so I can remove the cap, foam then sand and replace the stringers

Foam is usually after stringer replacement, and sanding stringer install should follow replacement....

good luck w your project

 

[GongshowBayliner92]

Yeah, was more a general stuff to do list instead of timeline, thanks for following up though, I'll take all the free advice I can get. I'm planning on building a wooden frame from the ground above the boat and using an engine hoist to get the cap off and on the frame one end at a time. its rated for 2500lbs so it should do the trick, the cap is nowhere near that weight.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I used the rafters in my shop with ratchet straps to remove the cap from my Avanti.

 

[The Force power]

Well....I guess I can join the Gong show; I purchased a 1990 Bayliner Capri in January of this year & the same temperatures to work in.

At deep freeze temp. I could not detect "soft spots" lol but looking at this I will not be spared :{

 

[chevymaher]

Well....I guess I can join the Gong show; I purchased a 1990 Bayliner Capri in January of this year & the same temperatures to work in.

At deep freeze temp. I could not detect "soft spots" lol but looking at this I will not be spared :{

I am a member of the Deep Freeze Club. I got my boat frozen as a first boat. It is amazing how solid they check out when they are frozen solid.

 

[Scott Danforth]

never buy boats or hot-rods in the dead of winter unless you inspected them in mid summer..... BTDT....own a closet full of tee shirts that taught me to never do it again

 

[GongshowBayliner92]

Well I don't have an excuse, bought it in July, I knew it would need stringers transom etc, but you get what you pay for. If you were wondering what 3 inches of frozen foam looks like, here you go. Also the front half of the stringers have a pretty solid core, but are moist for about 2mm on the outside. But I figure if I'm going to strip it down to the stringers I should still replace them if they show any moisture. Frozen foam is a pain to get out.

 

[GongshowBayliner92]

Quick question, reason for plastic sheeting under the foam?

 

[The Force power]

To "somewhat" protect it from moister/water saturating the foam and/or to avoid a chemical reaction between the fiberglass & foam???

 

[kcassells]

Obviously it doesn't work here. Some think lining the hull with plastic or using plastic bags then pouring foam allows water to escape secretly to a far distant planet.
From everything I've seen with that approach eventually the plastics gives way and the problem of trapped water is still there.

 

[GongshowBayliner92]

Well there's basically a puddle of frozen water logged foam where the stringer meets the boat. Looks like the plastic just trapped the water in there. There must be a better way.

 

[kcassells]

There just has to be! LOL! Blink, Blink to the link
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ddy-walkaround
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...-new-fuel-pump
www.flotationfoamsolutions.com

 

[sopwithcamel74]

Flotation foam and below deck drainage - the more it's discussed, the more convinced that I am that there is more then one correct path to take.

I plan on just glassing in the stringers and bulkheads, keeping each compartment sealed and isolated from the bilge (no weep holes), and hoping that I seal it all well enough to keep it relatively dry. But I can't tell someone that they're wrong for wanting a way for those compartments to drain down to the bilge, either.

 

[Scott Danforth]

if you get water inside the hull, it will find ways inside somewhere.

keep the water outside the hull, do the best you can to seal, add the foam, and realize that in another few years you will buy a different boat, of in about 15-20, you will be fixing something else major on the boat.

 

[kcassells]

Yup...exactly my point. So it goes.....
Each sealed compartment is like a time capsule waiting for the owner , next buyer or someone to find out what's in there.
I'm keeping mine.