1992 18ft Bayliner Capri restoration

kcassells

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Yup, and if you intend to beach the boat get a keel protector. You can simply just double anchor in short water depending on your draft and get your noodle a little wet. No biggy beach time is fun.
 

GongshowBayliner92

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So I'm going with the vinyl ester 3m marine filler as the gelcoat is poly ester so I doubt I will get a good bond to the epoxy.
 

alldodge

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Use epoxy resin and what ever filler you choose and it will bond
 

GongshowBayliner92

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so plan is... sanding between coats
1. 3m vinylester marine filler then sanding with 180 and 220
2. sanding the rest with 80-120 grit
3. Brushing/rolling tipping interlux intercoat 2000E primer
4. Brusing/rolling and tipping performance epoxy paint below the water line
5. Brusing/rolling and tipping with interlux polyurethane brightside above the waterline (as the boat will be trailered 80% of the time)
any other suggestions? or is this the correct method from what I've read...

Might be a little overkill, but I'm ok with that. In Canada it seems the access to a variety of marine paints is pretty limited to a few brands, not sure if this is due to environmental restrictions.
 
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GongshowBayliner92

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Yeah, sorry I forgot to mention I ordered the thinner according to interlux's technical data sheet on their website for their pruducts. they have good information on all aspects of prep work and application, including dry times and temps, painting vs spraying, sanding prep and compatibility with primers, fillers etc.. It's kind of nice to have. Thanks for all the help.
 

GongshowBayliner92

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So first time really glassing anything. Coated my transom in a layer of chop strand then 3 layers of 1708 n that went well. Then used cabosil and chopped fibers to create peanut butter bond to the hull and clamped it overnight with a clamp i made.That went good. I then made peanut butter fillets on the sides and bottom of the transom then tried to glass the transom to the hull n it all went out the window. I've got good sized air bubbles on the bottom and sides where the fillets are. Can I just grind them out and lay new glass? Or patch them with peanut butter n chop fibers? I'm thinking my fillet wasnt rounded enough. I read the tutorials and still with rolling out the bubbles the chop strand is really difficult. Much more so than the 1708 to eliminate air bubbles.
 
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The Force power

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As a fellow 18' Bayliner Capri owner, I have been following your stages & process and I praise you for the dedication for the work you have been putting in:thumb:

Oh yeah, I do have soft spots in front of the back-seats
 

kcassells

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So first time really glassing anything. Coated my transom in a layer of chop strand then 3 layers of 1708 n that went well. Then used cabosil and chopped fibers to create peanut butter bond to the hull and clamped it overnight with a clamp i made.That went good. I then made peanut butter fillets on the sides and bottom of the transom then tried to glass the transom to the hull n it all went out the window. I've got good sized air bubbles on the bottom and sides where the fillets are. Can I just grind them out and lay new glass? Or patch them with peanut butter n chop fibers? I'm thinking my fillet wasnt rounded enough. I read the tutorials and still with rolling out the bubbles the chop strand is really difficult. Much more so than the 1708 to eliminate air bubbles.

Put up some pics
 

GongshowBayliner92

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Keep in mind that the back and sides of the transom were glassed before I installed it. I left the face out unglassed so I could glass it to the hull, that's why it is bare plywood. Underneath and the top were also glassed before I applied peanut butter. I have the before glassing and after pics.
 

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Baylinerchuck

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Yep, you really need smooth fillets for the glass to conform. I assume that you have the naked plywood a drink of resin before glassing.

You can grind out those bubbles with a dremel tool or small grinding wheel and fill like you said. Ive also seen folks drill a small hole and fill the void with resin from a syringe.

You’re making great progress.
 

GongshowBayliner92

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def gave the plywood a good brushing of resin prior to glassing, made sure it wasn't thirsty. I thought it was the fillets. it just wouldn't lay down right. Then i would get it smooth and the bubbles popped up when it started to kick. Well #$%$ I will grind them and fix them this weekend as well as install the stringers, possibly the floor if all goes well. it's 2 to 4 degrees at night here and 16 to 24 in the day. Soon I won't be able to glass anything with the low temps.
 

GongshowBayliner92

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Transom done. Boat sanded, so much sanding wow, weeks of sanding! Almost ready to get these on. Just waiting for some cooler weather.20210818_173400.jpg
 

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GongshowBayliner92

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Finally got resin. And started the stringers. Peanut buttered'em in and added a layer of chop then 1708 then chop thus is midway through. Too hot to do anything during the day the resin hardens too fast.
 

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GongshowBayliner92

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So this might be a stupid question. Googled it with no luck. Do I need to paint over interlux 2000e with a bottom coat? Or can I just leave it.
 

zool

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So this might be a stupid question. Googled it with no luck. Do I need to paint over interlux 2000e with a bottom coat? Or can I just leave it.
Is it gonna be kept on a trailer or in a slip? 2000e is basically a barrier primer, intended to be applied to specific mil thickness, then top coated with anti fouling if wet slipped. If kept on a trailer, there is no need for the 2000e, Interlux VC would be the epoxy product to use stand alone for trailering.

2000e alone has no antifouling properties for wet slip use, its like driving a car with just primer on it, kinda a rough surface and will chalk from UV light.
 

GongshowBayliner92

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Is it gonna be kept on a trailer or in a slip? 2000e is basically a barrier primer, intended to be applied to specific mil thickness, then top coated with anti fouling if wet slipped. If kept on a trailer, there is no need for the 2000e, Interlux VC would be the epoxy product to use stand alone for trailering.

2000e alone has no antifouling properties for wet slip use, its like driving a car with just primer on it, kinda a rough surface and will chalk from UV light.
Thanks. It will be trailered most of the time, only use in fresh water. I wanted to use the 2000e because I have some gelcoat cracking. I tried to Dremel out and fill as much as I could, but I wouldn't mind the extra protection. So from what I understand, 2000e as a primer then interlux vc if trailered or another suitable anti-fouling, if wet slipped, would be most appropriate?
 
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