Rehab SportCraft 222 1983 deep V hull cuddy walkaround

[kcassells]

Well I've been working on this ole gal for 2 summers. Lots of sweet equity. So tired of looking out the window during the winter season and not being able to work on her more.
But the time gives me ideas on how to proceed come early Spring. I just would like to thank everyone at IBoats forums for your input and knowlwdge. I would not have taken on this project without you guys! I figure this boat will be my Viking Burial rite. lol.
I really enjoy luring around and getting giving info and a high five.
Total rehab, total gut, total everything. She looked so good when I bought her......but I still remember when the seller kept saying "as is"........The beginning;


Here she is under cover.

Now back at home with cover;
http://i1373.photobucket.com/albums/ag362/kcassellsplmb/PICT0069_zps7b6ef91a.jpg[/IMG]

Every stringer, bulkead all foam was waterlogged. Transom shot. Also the wood still had worms in it. In additiion I found that thewre was a fiberglass crack in the outside transom.
had to remove the molded components to access interior of boat for work.

 

[kcassells]

Holy Baloney... it worked!!

 

[kcassells]

I have this week off. So I'm putting in stringers, bulkheads, using epoxy and 1708 bi-axle. Ya ya I'm on vacation, I'm on vacation....Also picked up Johnson 225 VRO circa 198something. LOL I made the transom too thick...have to ponder that in regards to putting on the engine and the saved rear splashwell.

 

[kcassells]

Going back outside to work on Missy.

 

[Woodonglass]

1708 & Epoxy??? Did we have this discussion???

 

[kcassells]

1708 & Epoxy??? Did we have this discussion???

I guess I need you to refresh my memory WOG.

 

[kcassells]

REVISED 03/11/2014


EPOXY RESIN

Epoxy requires NO CSM (Chopped Strand Mat)! For added structural support for your deck and to attach it to the sides of the hull I'd recommend using 6-8 oz fabric extending 6-8 inches up the sides of the hull. 1 or 2 layers is sufficient. The Resin and Cloth/Fabric is all that's requred. Any gaps can be filled with PB just like Poly. Use epoxy resin mixed with Cabosil mixed to the consistency of Creamy Peanut Butter. You can't use Gelcoat with Epoxy! (Well maybe but, it takes special prep and even then it's debatable.) Epoxy has no UV protection so it must be coated with some kind of UV protectant, either Marine Varnish (to keep the Natural Wood Look, or Paint to protect it from the sun if it will be exposed to the sun), carpet...Something must cover it. It does have a bit more FLEX to it, it's a bit stronger of a Glue, and offers a bit more water resistance. It is also costs about 50% more than Polyester Resin. It can take up to 12 hours to cure. (poly will tack up in as little time as 25 mins.)

--This is the way I am doing the renovation.

 

[kcassells]

As well as this,
Stringers-Updated 03/11/2014


Epoxy Resin

If you choose to use Epoxy for your Stringers, then you'll only need to use Fabric or Cloth to cover them.
2 layers of 17oz cloth will be adequate. The drawing is basically the same just won't use CSM or 1708. Layup will be a bit more difficult due to the fact that Epoxy cures at a much slower rate than Poly and is a bit more "Runny" so it will have a tendency to want to run off the side of the stringer and Pool at the bottom. You'll need to Babysit it and keep pulling it back up onto the surface of the cloth until it begins to tack up a bit.

Polyester Resin

 

[Woodonglass]

If you read the text it states when using epoxy you don't use the 1708 you just use 17 oz fabric the drawing is for using Poly NOT for using epoxy. The Text describes what to do when using epoxy and the drawing SHOWS what to do when using Poly It's all the same just take OFF the CSM and the "08" when using Epoxy. Got IT???

 

[kcassells]

If you read the text it states when using epoxy you don't use the 1708 you just use 17 oz fabric the drawing is for using Poly NOT for using epoxy. The Text describes what to do when using epoxy and the drawing SHOWS what to do when using Poly It's all the same just take OFF the CSM and the "08" when using Epoxy. Got IT???

Ahh, indeed I do.Thank you again. So if I am using the 1708 Biaxial, what is your opinion? Overkill or something else I'm missing?

 

[Woodonglass]

Epoxy contains no styrene which is required to break down the fibers of the CSM. CSM is used to bind the Polyester resin together since it contains no binders when it cures so it does not break apart. Since Epoxy has it's own binders it does not require CSM. Since the fibers in CSM are loosely woven they provide very little structural strength to the mix but they will soak up a lot of resin. You can use the 1708 but the cost will be in using approximately 30% more resin with little added benefit. You'd be much better off and have a stronger build using a layer or 17 oz cloth or even 2 of 8.5 oz cloth with NO CSM. If you use the 1708 I'd recommend using it upside down laying the fabric side down and the CSM side up to get a stronger bond to the hull with less risk of delamination.

 

[kcassells]

Got it, thank you.

 

[jigngrub]

I see Zool using a lot of 1708 biax in his epoxy build and no one is correcting him:
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...280sf-engine-swap-and-restoration-pics/page62

You can buy 50" wide 1708 cheaper than you can buy 38" 18 oz. e-glass and the USComp site states all of their fabrics are compatible with poly, epoxy, and vinylester resins.

You don't need the fibers in the matt to break down with epoxy resin because epoxy isn't wimpy like polyester resin.

 

[kcassells]

I see Zool using a lot of 1708 biax in his epoxy build and no one is correcting him:
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...280sf-engine-swap-and-restoration-pics/page62
You can buy 50" wide 1708 cheaper than you can buy 38" 18 oz. e-glass and the USComp site states all of their fabrics are compatible with poly, epoxy, and vinylester resins.
You don't need the fibers in the matt to break down with epoxy resin because epoxy isn't wimpy like polyester resin.

Well that's exactly what I am doing and standing by it. I was using 1708 biax prior to the "change" program. Thanks Jig..Thought for a moment I was from another planet and landed in a world of now what. I bought in 50 yards and 25 yards at a pop so it's going to be used up.
Now I can pull my head out of my a scribble scribble and get back to work. Expect to hear shortly "it's your boat and you can do what you want."

 

[Woodonglass]

I see Zool using a lot of 1708 biax in his epoxy build and no one is correcting him:
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...280sf-engine-swap-and-restoration-pics/page62

You can buy 50" wide 1708 cheaper than you can buy 38" 18 oz. e-glass and the USComp site states all of their fabrics are compatible with poly, epoxy, and vinylester resins.

You don't need the fibers in the matt to break down with epoxy resin because epoxy isn't wimpy like polyester resin.

You better check again there JIG! I follow Zool's build all the time. I don't believe he's ever used a yard of 1708 in his epoxy build. In fact, The Link you posted CLEARLY shows he's using 17oz Biaxial Cloth. I know for a fact that he Knows NOT to use 1708 for the very reasons previously stated and has recommended the same exact thing on other threads. Using CSM is not good practice when using epoxy. I'd be happy to read any article that you could post that says otherwise.

 

[kcassells]

You better check again there JIG! I follow Zool's build all the time. I don't believe he's ever used a yard of 1708 in his epoxy build. In fact, The Link you posted CLEARLY shows he's using 17oz Biaxial Cloth. I know for a fact that he Knows NOT to use 1708 for the very reasons previously stated and has recommended the same exact thing on other threads. Using CSM is not good practice when using epoxy. I'd be happy to read any article that you could post that says otherwise.

I did.., from pg. 62 of current post/build;
Its just a 2 gallon kit and 10 yds of biax....also some brushes and cups from HD.

I also had about a half gallon of epoxy left from the winter, That should be enough to finish all the midship glass, and some of the engine room.



This time they sent me the cloth on a roll, instead of folding it. much better than having those annoying creases in it when doing a layup. What I didn't notice at first, is the 17oz biaxial is different than my order last year, Both have the 45 deg glass weave, but this new stuff also has 90 deg strings in it...I don't know if they sent the wrong stuff, or they just use a new product, it doesn't wet out as clear, but appears a lot stronger when layed up, has a big print like Woven R. Whatever, im running with it.






"We all come from the sea. But we are not all of the sea. Those of us who are, we children of the tides, must return to it again and again."

Current Boats
10' tin gamefisher/Johnson 7.5hp ob
1991 Sea Ray 170br/AlphaMerc
1996 Century 1800 CC/Yamaha c85
1988 Imperial 280SF (under the knife)

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restor...cs-598307.html

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmm 17oz biaxial is not 1708!!! It's plain old fabric with no CSM stitched to it. I'm sorry you mis-read the stringer info and you evidently misread Zools post as well. He is not using 1708. But Hey, don't take my word for it PM Zool, I'm sure he'd love to give you his opinion of CSM and Epoxy as well. By the Way U S C O M P O S I T E S sells the 17 oz Biaxial Fabric in 50" widths as well and as you can see it's 55 cents a yard cheaper than the 1708. As I stated previously you can use the 1708 and be fine but you will use more resin.



Oh but, It is your boat and you're free to do as you see fit!!!!

 

[kcassells]

Oh but, It is your boat and you're free to do as you see fit!!!!
LOL!! Love it, thanks again. I was waiting for that.

 

[Woodonglass]

You KNOW I HAD to say it!!!!!:faint2:

 

[kcassells]

You KNOW I HAD to say it!!!!!:faint2:

yea u did! Thta's why I laughed my arse off. Anyway..been plowing along with work/wood/glass under the cuddy. OMG it's really a pia, On my back, laying sideways and bending over like a contortionist. This area is the hardest portion of the boat to re-create.
I fabbed up all the stringers under the cuddy as;
-Fill all voids, sand off, acetone, wet out, two layers of glass. They had to be cut in such a fashion that they could be slid in and rolled up to fit. The space is not open so mods had to be addressed.

I left both inner skins of the hull intact durring demo, so when I placed the new stringers in they were pb and the skins pb {epoxy} against each other and compressed until the pb squeezed out. Work that while I could into fillets.
That's the old news, today I worked in the other stringers, glassing, fire wall, bulkheads and rear wood work. The back half of the boat wood is not in yet but ready. I still have the front left half....all this work is belly work. So it's very time consuming. Port, aft, rear, stern ...yea I know be specific.
Some pics...also while I was broke fixing up the boat I messed with the teak. some pics.

Before/after;

In order to wet out the stringers on one side to the next, I spray Wax on the plastic then flip and do the other side. Sometimes it sticks to the plastic but then I smack it off with a hammer. That way I can proceed on all woods both sides as they set up/dry. Always wipe out with acetone afterwards.. Tons more pics but have to BBQ a meal for my Queen. Was @ 100 today in the boat.