Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

[jcsercsa]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Man she is swiss cheese back there !! lol joihn

 

[opalized]

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Re: Upon Further Review..........#@$%@#$

Transoms aren't hard.. just time consuming. Cut it out from the inside, slicing the inner skin with a grinder or other tool, and pull the skin off.

Clean out the old wood, grinding down to clean glass. Glue the new transom in place, and you can re-create the holes after gluing (or before if you like) from the holes in the outer skin.

I found with the transom removal, cutting the perimeter of the wooden part, where it was fiberglassed tot he transom skin (perimeter) then taking a circular saw set to 1 inch and a half in my case the depth of the wood and making multiple cuts horizontally in the transome from the inside (the wood covered area), then using an air chisel with sharp chisel point, just taking a half inch at a time from the outdrive opening outward to either side of the boat, took about 4 hours to completely remove the wooden portion of the transom right to the fiberglass transom skin, and being careful, as you get close to the fiberglass it cleaned it right to the glass requiring almost no grinding.

I plan to prefit my new transom plywood portion, preinstall drill all holes including outdrive hole, (this will allow me to clamp in this area when actually assymbling) i then intend to over size drill out all holes then fiberglass them shut again, prefit again redrill to correct size, then use all holes to bolt and clamp when the transom goes in for the final time
WHY?
This will prevent any possible water leaks through any of the holes from rotting the plywood out again since it will be fiberglass lined allowing the water to flow though to the bilges instead of into the wood transom
Just my thoughts, a true virgin at this so take with a lake full of salt
Good Luck how ever ya do it

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

John, thursday is better for me too. Let's pick a time as it gets closer. Thanks.

 

[jcsercsa]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

John, thursday is better for me too. Let's pick a time as it gets closer. Thanks.

Cool !! John

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Guys, how much thickness can I expect from each layer of 1708 bi-ax and epoxy resin?

Also, need some advice on sealing up the transom pieces before installation. It has a shape where it is thicker in the center. I need someone to take a look at it on the previous page and give me some feedback on the order of glassing it in. Do I tab it all the way around and treat each flat surface as its own area? Or do I try and get one sheet of glass all the way accross it. I can't possibly see how it would manage all those angles that way.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

got some more work done on the transom. I counter bored all the holes i want to fill with marine tex. Sanded the paint and gelcoat in these areas. I think i counted 51 holes.

 

[SnowHunter]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

51 holes?

 

[redfury]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Guys, how much thickness can I expect from each layer of 1708 bi-ax and epoxy resin?

Approximately 7-8 pages of printer paper thick, depending on how heavy of a paper you use in your printer. I use 20lb paper.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Thanks Red!

What are people's opinions on the best material for structural things below deck.

IE: Engine mounting blocks, fuel tank support blocks, deck supports. Basically, what kind of structural lumber.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Spent this evening filling the counter bored holes with marine tex. No more starry nite transom!! I'll have to sand it down and skin it one more time. The holes, being vertical, allowed the marine tex to sag and aren't completely flush. Halfway there, I suppose. Anyone got any suggestions on what to use for the solid wood pieces i'll need?

 

[jcsercsa]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

dont forget to leave a few of them of them open so we can clamp the transom! John

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

dont forget to leave a few of them of them open so we can clamp the transom! John

Yep, lifting hooks, outdrive bolt up holes, drain plug, a few thru hulls for wiring and what not. Plenty of holes in that transom!

 

[HVAC Cruiser]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Found Ya your thread is showing up in your signature now.

I see John is coming over to help, your in good hands.

I see you asked about engine mounts etc... for engine mounts on the Sea Gem I actually used microlam that a friend donated to me. Prior to that I was going to make my blocks out of laminated ply, the base section is vertical, the top is horizontal, I did this for strength and stability. For deck and fuel tank supports again use ply and laminate it to the thickness you need.

I don't know if you prepared the ply for your transom yet if you didn't, you want to heat the wood and give it at least 1 coat of epoxy to seal it. Don't thin the epoxy that defeats the purpose, I actually used a heat gun got the wood warm, then flowed the resin directly following the gun.

I hope that helps some

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Thanks Bill!

My old engine support block was a 2 x 4 of some red type of wood. Not sure if it was cored balsa or an oak? Maybe white cedar? Just looking for something rot resistant to use below deck and to build some wall framing above deck that i will cover with thin ply and teak batting.

for the transom, i will seal it up like that. I think i'll be going to two full transom pieces of 3/4" laminated. This will be easier to glass in and I'm going to use an 8 hp yamaha T8 kicker on one side. I'll then make up the transom thickness with whatever gets me to between the merc spec of 2 to 2 1/4" thickness.

 

[oops!]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

hi mulligan...!

sorry this so long to get back to you....im researching a new product, so its taking lots of my time.

as far as your pm....i think you are over thinking this......dont forget your boat was designed by two drunks on a saterday night at the bar....with the design written on a beer coaster.....and built on the following monday by the same two hung over guys.

the reason for the extra thickness in the wood is because some one tryed to cut expences on the build....thats all.

to seal the transom.....just paint it with epoxy before you install it !

any thru hull holes must be sealed with epoxy or all your work is in vain.
i would suggest that you either pl or glass the new transom to the outer skin...if you have ground the skin to the point that is has uneven patches....just make some peanut butter and screed that stuff on till the innerside of the transom is smooth to glass to.

after its in....take the peanut butter and fill the voids around the edges....then seal the whole shabang with your epoxy (or poly)
this is a really simple thing bud.....i have seen transoms installed in less than half of an hour not including cure times.

after its glassed in and tabbed in....gellcoat it....and done !

yes you seal the edges before it goes in.
that is an i/o....so you have to have the 2 1/4 inch thickness......this is non negotiable....it also has to be flat and paralell around the drive hole.
i used a laminating gauge (micrometer) to measure mine.

by the way.....when johnny gets there....say hi for me.....and have a beer togeather......but what ever you do.....dont mention the red wings.

cheers
oops

 

[oops!]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

by the way......as far as motor mounts.....i used a 4x4 beam of hardwood in mine....but the factory set up was just peices of plywood stacked on top of each other....

what ever you use. just make sure you seal it with epoxy before you install it.
the whole deal is to build the hull like water is supposed to get in there....protect everything so when water does get in.....your laughing!

cheers
oops

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Ahh oops! you make it sound so easy. I really appreciate your inputs here. Your entire hull extension thread has been very hepful to me.

1. Seal transom with epoxy. will do
2. thru holes sealed with epoxy. will do
3. level transom with peanut butter. will do
4. PL or glass to existing transom. probably pl if this is acceptable.
5. PB voids around the edges. will do. bedding along bottom in pb during install

6. i should glass the face first and then install, yes? then glass it in with strips and tabs. Is this right?

7. gelcoat after in. why? Can i leave as is?

8. transom thickness 2 1/4". Ok, here i have an issue. My current thickness. unlaminated sections of ply is 2.04.

edit: this figure (2.04) includes the existing fiberglass transom shell

I'm concerned that laminating them, sealing to existing transom and covering with two layers of 1708 biax is going to push it out past 2 1/4. I believe the merc spec is between 2 and 2 1/4. Am i better off to go to two sheets of 3/4 as opposed to two sheets of 3/4 and one sheet of 1/4? this way i'm starting around 1.75 inches and will have room to build with glass and the laminate to existing shell to between the spec. Thoughts here needed.

9. half hour project (lmao). Johnny and I are both sick about the wings. I'm sure we won't discuss.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Below are a couple pictures of the upper port corner of the boat. The previous owner must have backed it into something. I need to repair it. You can see from the pics i've ground off most of the fiberglass. What remains is a very uneven surface of epoxy (i assume) covering the fiberglass shell. It's probably 3/8 inch thick in some spots (hard to see from these pictures) and, well you can see the hole in one spot. What do I do to repair this. My options are, as I see them. Get rid of all the epoxy there and build it back with fiberglass. Or, fair it out with peanut butter to something close to level and glass over that. Looking for opinions.

BTW, it is almost all above the transom height. You can see the upper corner where some was ground away behind where the transom will go. Do i need glass on that part or just fill with PB?

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Here are a couple pictures of the repair the previous owner did on the stern port corner. I'm thinking maybe I should tear this out and fix it myself since i'm this far along anyway. The first two pictures show the damage. The third is the starboard corner, as it should look.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Here is the cut i put in the hull. ground out, ready for repair. I think i fill this with peanut butter and glass over it with 2 or 3 layers of 1708 biax. Is this right?

Speaking of peanut butter. When i ordered my supplies from u.s. composites i got some milled fiber, some phenolic balloons and some cabisol. Any suggestions on what stuff to use to make the pb for basic grind filling and fairing of dips and such. I also am thinking of filling the chine below. I'd like something strong enough that i don't have to kill myself sanding. I'm using epoxy.

Ok, those few posts are enough questions for today!