barato2
Commander
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2010
- Messages
- 2,956
Re: the 1967 Holiday 18 and Multiple Boat Syndrome
got the anode installed. Since I’ll be parking this aluminum boat in Mexican marinas (read, maybe not the greatest electrical wiring and thus current leakage into water), I wanted this big honking one. What a perfect brand name! Just trying to help you Canucks’ balnace of trade. It will ultimately be held on with 1/4-20 x1.5" bolts from inside of hull, each with a permanent nut holding it permanently to hull. Then a 2d nut and fender washer will hold the anode onto the exposed threads....so it will be easy to change, subject to sawing that angle into the next one! That was a 2-saw-blade cut. Bolts are backed on the inside with 1/4"x2" flat alum bar and SS fender washers, and a bonding wire to the knee braces. Contacting Martyr to see how much paint I need to remove to get good contact....it would be great if I could just “bare it” inside the hull under the flat bar, instead of having to remove exterior paint under the anode.
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the bilge pumps are in! All that’s left to do is hooking up wiring and trimming the hoses to length after I figure out what obstructions I need to clear. I made this bracket for the 2d pump because it’s a huge mutha that weighs 6 POUNDS. Yup, more hunks o’ Lone Star...
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Here’s my trusty pump room with the two 2000-gpH pumps in place. I still may make a simple alum bracket to knee brace to hold the top of orange pump in place, so the plastic base doesn’t have to be it’s sole support when boat is rockin and rollin. after checking the voltage drop tables, i also upsized the wire to feed the things to 10 ga.
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finally......a pic of another section of Lone Star seat base that’s going to become part of my chine bracing after a bit more fine tuning of angle.
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got the anode installed. Since I’ll be parking this aluminum boat in Mexican marinas (read, maybe not the greatest electrical wiring and thus current leakage into water), I wanted this big honking one. What a perfect brand name! Just trying to help you Canucks’ balnace of trade. It will ultimately be held on with 1/4-20 x1.5" bolts from inside of hull, each with a permanent nut holding it permanently to hull. Then a 2d nut and fender washer will hold the anode onto the exposed threads....so it will be easy to change, subject to sawing that angle into the next one! That was a 2-saw-blade cut. Bolts are backed on the inside with 1/4"x2" flat alum bar and SS fender washers, and a bonding wire to the knee braces. Contacting Martyr to see how much paint I need to remove to get good contact....it would be great if I could just “bare it” inside the hull under the flat bar, instead of having to remove exterior paint under the anode.
the bilge pumps are in! All that’s left to do is hooking up wiring and trimming the hoses to length after I figure out what obstructions I need to clear. I made this bracket for the 2d pump because it’s a huge mutha that weighs 6 POUNDS. Yup, more hunks o’ Lone Star...
Here’s my trusty pump room with the two 2000-gpH pumps in place. I still may make a simple alum bracket to knee brace to hold the top of orange pump in place, so the plastic base doesn’t have to be it’s sole support when boat is rockin and rollin. after checking the voltage drop tables, i also upsized the wire to feed the things to 10 ga.
finally......a pic of another section of Lone Star seat base that’s going to become part of my chine bracing after a bit more fine tuning of angle.
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