88 Sunray- Deck Transom and Stringers oh my!!

Jbasham

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Apr 10, 2017
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84
Hey guys Newbie here love this forum! I have a 1988 Sunray 19ft open bow 305/OMC Cobra.

So long story short Ive owned this boat for 8 years and it has been an awesome family boat! 2 years ago we got caught in a storm at Lake Mead and hit rocks. The damage was contained to about a 6ft section of the keel (or so I thought). Insurance paid to repair the damage to the tune of about $3500. It has always taken on water but since the accident I noticed that it started taking on even more. Well I found that the Starboard strake had about a 3ft long hairline crack. Plan of attack was to cut out a small section of the deck to get at the crack from the inside and then patch the floor up... Sounds good right???

Well when I cut the floor open there was no wood. Only a few layers of glass remained. Soooo now i was going to replace the whole deck as most of it has rotted away. Fast forward a year and here we are. I managed to cut out the whole deck and only went through the bottom of the hull once for about 4 inches...EEEEK!! I was hoping to leave the engine in place but no go. The deck sits on top of the stringers under the motor mounts and the only way to do the deck right was to pull the engine. So on SAturday I pulled it. One thing led to another and led to another and now Im replacing the Transom and possibly full stringers as well. The whole lower half of the Transom was rotted and at least the first 4ft of the stringers as well.

I just picked up 20 yds of 1.5oz CSM, 10 yds 1708, 5 gal of polyester resin and a bunch of supplies. I know ill probably need more but I bought all this with intentions of only doing the crack repair and a new deck.

I have limited glass experience but I am highly mechanically inclined, have done a ton of research, and Im willing to do the repairs; so here we go.
 
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Grub54891

Admiral
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Jun 17, 2012
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And so it begins... Welcome to the forum! You will get lots of help here. Pics are required of the work though!
 

tpenfield

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Jul 18, 2011
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:welcome:

Sounds like you are jumping into the deep end of the pool. You should be fine, as most folks who do a restoration are doing it for the first time. Lots to see and learn from on this forum, so read-away and you should have the info you need.

BTW - we like pictures . . . lots of pictures. :)
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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there is a tutorial on pictures and videos in this thread http://forums.iboats.com/forum/forum-rules-and-guidelines

the site moderators restricted the size of pictures you can simply "paste" to under 400 kb or so to conserve server space so either really dumb down the pics or use a photo hosting site if you want detail
 

Jbasham

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 10, 2017
Messages
84
This is the crack on the Strake after I did some grinding on it. Im going to add glass all the way back to the Transom.
 
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Jbasham

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Apr 10, 2017
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84
On Saturday I pulled the engine, tore apart the bilge and started investigating the Transom...


 

Jbasham

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Apr 10, 2017
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84
Well the investigating turned into pulling the Gimbal housing and stripping the Transom.



 

Jbasham

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Apr 10, 2017
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Im no boat expert but this Transom setup seems weird to me... It was 2 layers of 3/4" ply with a layer of CSM between them. You cant tell where it was "tabbed" in, it just kinda goes seamlessly into the Gunwales. Which makes me think it was done at the same time of the original layup?? Also the top wasn't tabbed in either, the glass just stops where the hull/cap meet. Im thinking of pulling all the screws and rivets(which hold the rubrail) out at that intersection and extending the Transom tabbing up and over it then drilling to put the screws back through. Thoughts?



 

Jbasham

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Apr 10, 2017
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10 hours of hammer and chiseling with 2 hours of grinding and its all better :D

In some of these pics you can see voids where the matt wasn't fully saturated before they installed the transom. So my question is do I need to grind all that out and layup more matt or can I just wet it out before I install my Transom?


 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Really nice work on the tear out. You really got lucky with not having a giant mess under the deck. Your boat has a really straightforward build so it shouldn't be too bad to put back together.
 

Jbasham

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 10, 2017
Messages
84
Really nice work on the tear out. You really got lucky with not having a giant mess under the deck. Your boat has a really straightforward build so it shouldn't be too bad to put back together.

Thanks ezmobee! Its a little overwhelming right now just thinking about how much I have to do and the time frame im trying to get it done in, but like everything its just 1 job at time.

Im hoping some of the experts chime in soon to help me with a couple questions I had a few posts back...
 
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Jbasham

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Apr 10, 2017
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Last night I started the template "rough draft". Today ill pick up a couple sheets of 3/4" ply and start roughing that in.

 

Jbasham

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Apr 10, 2017
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The white board I was using for my template wasn't quite tall enough so I had to improvise, but it served its purpose. I then transferred it over to the 3/4"ply and cut it out. I used Titebond III wood glue to laminate the sheets together. It should be ready by tomorrow and then Ill clean up the edges with a belt sander.

1 small repair (where I stuck my chisel through) and Im just about ready to stick this thing in the boat and start glassing.

But first I need some advice. Should I grind the crappy looking areas in the glass out on the transom and lay down some more CSM or just go with it since its lasted 30 years this way?

Thanks guys!

 

Jbasham

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Apr 10, 2017
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Well I decided it was best that I finish all of the demo work before I start laying any glass. So originally I was only going to replace the rotted part of the stingers but after removing the glass there was only about 18" of good wood left, so im just doing all of them.

My dilemma was that the front bow area sits on top of the front 48" of the deck and stringers and the only way to remove that would be to pull the top cap...
Since I don't have the time or space to remove it I decided to cut a small section of it out to get access to the forward section of the deck and stringers.

Kinda strange but there was carpet in between theses pieces!? I cant think of any purpose for carpet in there except maybe sound deadening and maybe to fill the small gap?? Or maybe the factory already had the deck and carpet down and then decided "hey lets make this one an open bow" How should I put this back?



 
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