Windlass Goes Up but not Down

[gman546]

Issue i'm pulling my hair out with. Simpson Lawrence Sprint 500 goes up well but not down.

Its just a click and a nudge. seems like powers going to the motor but cant find any good information online about the system. I'm including a video to get an idea. I know in the video it doesnt show that it will go up but i went and manually let out some line and confirmed it goes up well, just clicks and sticks going down. can turn it freely the up way with my hand when i took it apart, but not the other way.

FYI I pulled the gypsey apart, took the chain off and had it under no chain load and still it moves up properly but down just clicks and stops in place. it wants to go, it tries. theres enough recoil in the "try" to make it just go the other way from the abrupt stop when it does try. cause the other way is free

How screwed am i?

 

[alldodge]

It's most likely either the Switch or the Solenoid
Switch
Solenoid

Need to trace connections to find out which

 

[alldodge]

 

[Kosmofreeze]

I just went through this with my Tilt/Trim motor/pump. It turned out to be some corrosion in the motor connector. First - If you can hear the relays 'click' when you hit the UP/DN switches - your switches and wiring are good. If not, it's either the switch or the solenoid. Find the electrical connector nearest to the motor. Probe the relay side of the connector with a DVM - you should see +12V/-12V when you press the UP/DN buttons. It that works, you know your reversing relays/solenoid working. Otherwise, replace the solenoid after you've ruled out the switches. To test the motor itself, run a 12V (assuming a 12V motor here) directly to the motor side of the connector. If you can get it to run UP & DN (+12V/-12V), you know the motor is good. Good luck.

 

[gman546]

I just went through this with my Tilt/Trim motor/pump. It turned out to be some corrosion in the motor connector. First - If you can hear the relays 'click' when you hit the UP/DN switches - your switches and wiring are good. If not, it's either the switch or the solenoid. Find the electrical connector nearest to the motor. Probe the relay side of the connector with a DVM - you should see +12V/-12V when you press the UP/DN buttons. It that works, you know your reversing relays/solenoid working. Otherwise, replace the solenoid after you've ruled out the switches. To test the motor itself, run a 12V (assuming a 12V motor here) directly to the motor side of the connector. If you can get it to run UP & DN (+12V/-12V), you know the motor is good. Good luck.

I'm assuming the motor is fine because it goes up and pulls the anchor up. that has to be harder than putting it down? i do hear the click like it shows in the video. i'm confused if there was even a solonoid in this windlass or where it would be. the bow area where the motor is doesnt have any solonoid. maybe its in the engine bay?

 

[alldodge]

I'm assuming the motor is fine because it goes up and pulls the anchor up. that has to be harder than putting it down? i do hear the click like it shows in the video. i'm confused if there was even a solonoid in this windlass or where it would be. the bow area where the motor is doesnt have any solonoid. maybe its in the engine bay?

It does have one and that's the biggest issue is finding where they put it

Look on page 10
Manual

 

[gman546]

It does have one and that's the biggest issue is finding where they put it

Look on page 10
Manual

Ah I see thank you for all the links. they call it the "Control Box". Ok ill see what i can do hopefully just some corrosion there

 

[Scott Danforth]

most of the time the contacts in the reversing contactor arc over because they do not put a flyback suppression diode on the motor side.

 

[tpenfield]

Aside from any electrical issues as mentioned . . . I am wondering (asking) if the bow roller is the 'self-launching type' and if the windlass is set for 'free fall' feeding.