Volvo Penta 5.7 no spark

[alldodge]

Your page brings mercruiser spare parts

Sorry about that, I answered a question on the Formula Forum and that was copied prior. Have no clue why sometimes my browser won't copy another link until I close and reopen

https://www.offshoreonly.com/classifieds/rinda-techmate-plus-scan-tools-o82907.html

 

[mkor]

Volvo published a service bulletin covering troubleshooting this ignition system. That bulletin is S.B. 28-1-6 Most dealers will print you a copy if you ask them. I highly recommend you get a copy and follow it carefully before going further.

Unfortunately, everything is difficult with Volvo Penta dealers in my region, they are now in high season. They just closed their offices and don't pick up the phone as well. who answer do not even want to talk. Answer one - call in May. So it is unlikely that the office secretary will be able to do this :-(

Do you know a dealer in the US who could help?

 

[muc]

28-1-6
Diagnostic steps for ignition coil
Gas engines 3.0, Gas engines 4.3, Gas engines 5.0, Gas engines 5.7
Binder: Date: 05-2014 Page: 1(5)
The following information applies to port fuel injected IAFM engines (2001 and up) that use a MEFI or EGC engine controller. The ignition coils on these engines have a heat sink and ignition module mounted to the coil assembly. The symptoms of this failure are a crank but no start condition. Preliminary troubleshooting should be performed to fuel and mechanical systems to be sure they are functioning correctly and that a weak spark or no spark condition is suspected. The procedure that follows is an on-engine test of the ignition coil.

Pretty much any newer engine with this style single ignition coil.

What year engines does the SB cover?

 

[muc]

Unfortunately, everything is difficult with Volvo Penta dealers in my region, they are now in high season. They just closed their offices and don't pick up the phone as well. who answer do not even want to talk. Answer one - call in May. So it is unlikely that the office secretary will be able to do this :-(

Do you know a dealer in the US who could help?

Every Volvo dealer I've worked for has been willing to print a copy for someone who walks through our door.
None of them would be willing to transmit it electronically. we sign an agreement to not do that.
I'm guessing if you ordered the manuals from Volvo they would include a copy. Might want to ask.

 

[alldodge]

The worst thing IMO about VP is finding a dealer, next thing is finding one that is good enough to fix the issue. This is the reason I don't buy VP, Yam, Suz, nothing but Merc

I'm in KY and the nearest VP Dealer is in Virginia. Take that and folks that sell Boats with VP drives and motors are closer

https://www.volvopenta.com/en-us/about-us/dealer-locator/

 

[mkor]

Report from service:
Re-attend disabled vessel via water taxi (as raining) from Hamble Hard car-park, with tools/equipment/further diagnostic systems. Connect Vodia and interrogate system, several faults registered but all historic, none current. Delete faults, attempt start engine but still no spark, no more faults registering. Swop Vodia for Rinda, again no faults registered after attempt start.
Disconnect equipment, disconnect main ECU plug and begin t e s t i n g sensor & switched components from main ECU plug for satisfactory specification and continuity. found and restored many small resistances in connections, which individually would not present a fault condition on their own, but c o l l e c t i v e l y would cause ar undefined, unrecognisable issue at the ECU, closing the ignition coil signal, without recistering a identifiable fault code. The Original, badly-corroded coil most likely caused the original fault and had been renewed
by thecustomer, and now hte collective faults were rectified, the engine was cranked again, with agood spark present. The coil and distributor were loosely refitted to test, engine started and ran ok, return ot workshop via water t a x i & report to customer.

 

[muc]

Good that the problem got sorted out! Thanks for the update.
Now I recommend that you repair the wiring to the key switch, The screws that you used won't stay tight ---- the thread pitch is too wide -----
When those wires get loose you risk voltage drops and spikes. This is the main killer of ECMs. Could cost big $$$$

 

[Nheels]

Report from service:
Re-attend disabled vessel via water taxi (as raining) from Hamble Hard car-park, with tools/equipment/further diagnostic systems. Connect Vodia and interrogate system, several faults registered but all historic, none current. Delete faults, attempt start engine but still no spark, no more faults registering. Swop Vodia for Rinda, again no faults registered after attempt start.
Disconnect equipment, disconnect main ECU plug and begin t e s t i n g sensor & switched components from main ECU plug for satisfactory specification and continuity. found and restored many small resistances in connections, which individually would not present a fault condition on their own, but c o l l e c t i v e l y would cause ar undefined, unrecognisable issue at the ECU, closing the ignition coil signal, without recistering a identifiable fault code. The Original, badly-corroded coil most likely caused the original fault and had been renewed
by thecustomer, and now hte collective faults were rectified, the engine was cranked again, with agood spark present. The coil and distributor were loosely refitted to test, engine started and ran ok, return ot workshop via water t a x i & report to customer.

What is meant by found and restored small resistances? So they ohm measured at the plug and sensors, then cleaned the terminals?

 

[mkor]

I was not present, but as they explained to me, computer diagnostics showed no errors and they had no choice but to check all the contacts. As I understand it, they just cleaned all the contacts they could find. Then a spark appeared. Therefore, no one knows what kind of contact was the cause. And the most interesting thing is that I have already done this, but I had no result.

In addition, I will add that after starting the engine, it again troiled a little. I cranked it up to 3000 rpm and after 15 minutes it turned off. I found that the high pressure fuel pump was not working and replaced it with a new one. Now it works well.

By the way, I have a question, they brought me 2 high and low pressure pumps. I only changed the high one as it is easy. To replace the low pressure pump, you need to spend much more time. Do you think it should be replaced immediately or left as a spare?

 

[alldodge]

There is a bad electrical connection somewhere, I would keep LP pump as a spare

 

[mkor]

I was not too lazy to measure the pressure on the low pump, and that's what. When you turn the key 1 time, but do not start the engine, the pumps only turn on - pressure is 0, repeated this 10 times and pressure appeared. But now when I turn on the pump - there is pressure, just turned it off and the pressure instantly drops. Watch a video.

Should I change the check valve?

 

[mkor]

And I probably found the problem why I lost the spark. I once again went through all the connectors to check the contacts and found a torn rubber seal on the absolute pressure sensor (on top of the motor). If you turn it off, the spark just disappears and the engine does not start.

 

[alldodge]

The low pressure drop right away is not a problem, if high side does same then that would be an issue

Melted connector would be an issue

 

[dubs283]

Simply unplugging the map sensor on a sound engine harness/sensor/ecm system should not cause a no spark/run issue. Could be there's something faulty with the harness connection/5 volt reference circuit associated with the map sensor

There's mention early on in the thread about an audible alarm when cranking yet the service person (who did, or at least wrote about doing a thorough investigation) mentions historical faults too old to be a factor. Either they misinterpreted the information or the alarm/beep you experienced wasn't fault related. We can't know because the service person claims to have cleared the fault history.

Seeing the pics posted its obvious the boat is run in salt water. My first suspicion in these cases is corrosion. Almost impossible to pinpoint without spending a lot (a lot) of time tracing wires and testing circuits. Once you solve an issue the likelihood of another rising is almost immediate

 

[mkor]

Simply unplugging the map sensor on a sound engine harness/sensor/ecm system should not cause a no spark/run issue. Could be there's something faulty with the harness connection/5 volt reference circuit associated with the map sensor

There's mention early on in the thread about an audible alarm when cranking yet the service person (who did, or at least wrote about doing a thorough investigation) mentions historical faults too old to be a factor. Either they misinterpreted the information or the alarm/beep you experienced wasn't fault related. We can't know because the service person claims to have cleared the fault history.

Seeing the pics posted its obvious the boat is run in salt water. My first suspicion in these cases is corrosion. Almost impossible to pinpoint without spending a lot (a lot) of time tracing wires and testing circuits. Once you solve an issue the likelihood of another rising is almost immediate

The audible alarm was related to the batteries.

 

[mkor]

Hello, I go ahead and try to understand the following:
The engine starts and runs smoothly at idle.
At the same time, from 1100 to 1500 rpm float + -100ю
After 1500 I don't notice it.

When I'm planing at 3200 rpm and 20 knots my boat at some point (rarely happens) can rev up to 3400 rpm and the speed goes up to 23. Or it can drop to 2800 rpm and the speed drops to 16 knots and the boat stops planing.

At some point, it seemed to me that the drop in speed was due to the impact of a wave that knocked me off the glider.
But then what is the set of speed connected with?
I can certainly assume that this may be due to the tides: the speed of which we can have up to 5 knots. But I ask for your opinion.

 

[alldodge]

When RPM's are above 1000 it's no longer idling, and above 1500 the Idle air control is no longer a factor

If boat is doing ocean waves I can see speed increase and decrease

 

[mkor]

you mean that you also change the speed of sog and rpm? or just sog?

 

[mkor]

I probably need to check the throttle body.

 

[alldodge]

Mostly sog but rpm could also change from the way the wave loads the boat. Boat climbing the wave of going down