Volvo Penta 5.7 no spark

mkor

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Hello. Help is needed. Volvo Penta 5.7 osxi-jf. No spark. The sensor in the distributor was replaced with a new one, the coil and the ignition module are new. At crank engine, I see about 200rpm. When I turn the key, I hear three beeps, as it should be, so it's hardly a button. What else could it be? The service is busy until the summer, you need to look for yourself.
 

mkor

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Where does the tachometer speed come from from the camshaft sensor located in the distributor or the crankshaft sensor located in front of the engine near the flywheel?
 

alldodge

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The Tach signal comes from the distributor.
With the new motors they really need to be scanned for codes. Scanner can be bought from Rinda
https://www.rinda.com/marine/marinemenu.htm

What was the motor doing before this happened?
Have you checked fuel pressure at the rail?
How are you checking for spark?
 

mkor

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How can I check the year of manufacture of the motor? My boat is from 2008, but they may have used a 2007 motor. In rinda this requires different kits.

4FBE2D09-504A-425A-919E-1E085F1EDBE9.jpeg
 

alldodge

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Does look like there was a change with diagnostics connector between those 2 years. Find the connector near the ECM and see if its round 94024 or flat 94029. It will have a plastic cover over it
 

mkor

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The motor started badly. The first time this happened in Spain last year, idle swam, after warming up it worked fine. The second time this happened after they washed the boat. Now I have sailed to the UK, it worked great. But the last start was difficult, I started the engine from the 20th time and it was shaking. After warming up, it started working well. I swam out and revved up to 3000 rpm for the flight. I noticed an uneven engine running. About once every 2 seconds I heard a vibration about 0.5 seconds long. The engine stalled after 15 minutes of flight. Started up. I am back. He didn't start on anymore.

I removed the high quality center wire from the coil and attached it to the motor housing. No spark. I have done this procedure many times in my life and there is no doubt about the correctness.
 

mkor

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If the revolutions are read from the distributor, then I did not check the sensor on the crankshaft and the problem may be in it. Right? I thought that the rpm was read from the crankshaft when I saw 200rpm.
 

alldodge

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Your correct it comes from the crank sensor

I would start by replacing the distributor cap and rotor. Most call them Crap cap because they can look great and be bad. Most carry a spare because there is no warning when they can go out

With the new motors pulling the coil wire can cause their own issues. It's best to use a spark gap tester, this way its safer and less chance of damaging the components
 

alldodge

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Check your battery voltage, should be close to 12.7V at rest and not connected to a charger. Voltage should not drop below 10V when cranking

Has the distributor been moved? hope not
 

mkor

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Distributor dit not been moved.

I have a new battery and I have a solar battery, so there is always order.

The only thing I noticed is the oil pressure gauge, it shows 20 when the engine is off and rises to 80 at the time of starting. Could this be a problem?

Since I no longer see other options but to order a diagnostic device or wait 2 months for service.

May be check the wiring and replace the relay? I can't find a diagram for my engine.
 

alldodge

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Gauges are analog and showing 20 when engine is off just means it probably needs replaced. That said seeing 20 when off and 80 when running would tell me its about 60 when running which would be closer to accurate, and is good enough

The diacom software would be best because it can record data and play it back. The Techmate just does real time and it gets stepped thru to see

Check if there is 12V at the coil and if you have a NOID light can place it on the injector to see if they are firing while cranking

This may also be moisture since it happened after washing the boat. Turn battery switch OFF then remove the connectors on the ECM. See if there is any water in them. Can also pull other connectors to see if they are dry
 

mkor

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I already checked for moisture, but no.

I had an idea to check if all the wires are intact, maybe there is a break, but I can’t find a diagram of my motor. There is a similar one. But I have 2 wires coming to the ignition coil and they have power. And in the EFI 5.7 GXI circuits, there are three wires per coil.

I'll try to check the injectors, but when I unscrewed the candles, there were traces of fuel.

There is one more question, I have an audible fault alarm. So when I turn on the engine I hear 3 beeps and that's it ok, I start cranking and after 5-15 seconds I hear one beep and I've never heard it before.
 

alldodge

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Don't know what it is other then the ECM is seeing a fault. A scanner will indicate which it is. Could be as simple Battery voltage going to low, or more complex like another sensor or ECM

Your seeing fuel on the plugs then the injectors are firing.
 

mkor

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Hello, NOID light is £20 but I have never used them and want to know if they are all standard or are there different connectors? Could you recommend something?

I read in the EFI instructions that if the nozzle does not work, then there will be no spark either.
 

mkor

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Diacom with delivery to me is a few weeks and more than 1000$, I would like to avoid this waste)
 

alldodge

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Your seeing fuel on the spark plugs so the injectors are firing, no need for NOID light.

Any chance you gotten some bad fuel?
Have you checked fuel pressure?

Does look like its no spark
You have power to the coil, distributor cap is new, need to scan motor to see if there are any codes.
 

mkor

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I put in new fuel 2 weeks ago, full tank. BUT! I don’t have a spark, I already thought about fuel too, but where is the spark?

So I have 3 connectors near the right exhaust manifold, I don't know which one is diagnostic. I post a photo. Tell me please.

I also have a question, is the crankshaft sensor located to the left or right of the pump? Since on the motor diagram it was on the left, but I do not find it. But to the right of the motor in the depths there is something similar. But there is no access there, it is necessary to dismantle the heat exchanger for hot water. I clarify this because: a) I see only 150 revolutions when I crank the engine, and everyone writes about 300. b) I put my hand in there and it’s wet there, but I didn’t get to the connector itself.
I believed in this sensor because I saw the rpm, but I never dismantled it. I don't know if it's worth it or not, if I see 150 rpm. Work there for the whole day.

And the third question, to the right of the engine, there is a sensor in the middle at the bottom. I'll post a photo, I don't know what it is. It has a broken wire.
 

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mvn

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
202
IMG_1079.jpg is your CANBUS connector which would use Rinda #94029 adapter. IMG_1081/1082.jpg is the Volvo Vodia connector (I think).

Mark
 
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