Volvo Penta 5.7 no spark

[alldodge]

It looks to me like your motor has both connectors image 1079 for connector 94029 CAN and image 1082 for connector 94024 EGC. The 94029 is the newest connector, if it was me I would go with it

94024 - $59.00
94029 - $249.00

Diacom - $599.00
Techmate - $499.00

Kit 94030c - $719.00 Diacom with 94029
kit 94729 - $639.00 Tehmate with 94029
Look at the other kits and compare, they come with more connectors then just the one you need. Could also look up kit using the EGC connector instead

 

[mvn]

I have the TechMate Pro kit (94070S) which includes both the 94024 and 94029 adapters (and mercruiser adapters) but I've only ever used the 94029 Canbus adapter. When I update to the latest firmware on the scan tool next week, I'll try out the circular adapter (my V6-280 has both connections as well) and see if there's any difference.

Mark

 

[mkor]

Good idea, looking forward to hearing from you. Since I do not have a laptop with Windows and for me a separate device is more convenient.

I'll take an assistant for now, since it's extremely inconvenient to do it alone. And I'll go through the wiring, contacts, sensors again.

I did not remove the crankshaft sensor, it is located behind the heat exchangers and there is no access to it, I want to disassemble everything tomorrow. Because I tried to stick my hand in there and it was wet. Perhaps the wires are simply rotted and give the wrong data.

 

[Donald0039]

I have the Diacom and a small laptop. For a 2012 VP engine. I think the Diacom with a laptop provides more functionality than the dedicated device.

This will not be the last time you will need to get diagnostics from your VP engine.

 

[muc]

Hi @mkor
If you go to
https://www.volvopenta.com/en-us/service-and-support/your-engine/manuals-and-handbooks/
and input your serial number the website will list the manuals that you should have to diagnosis and repair this engine.
47703486 wiring diagrams
7749393 EGC diagnostics
and 7743614 EFI repair (if you are unsure about proper technique) note that this last manual isn't for your specific engine, but its the closest they offer.
While I always recommend having the correct manuals, test equipment and scan tool. You might not need them in this case. But I always recommend using a spark tester to check for spark, use a fuel pressure tester to check for correct pressure and flow. And scan the ECM for codes. Not following these steps can lead to wasted time and money.
If you are correct that you have working fuel injectors and a bad wire to the knock sensor (that's the part in the picture that's circled).
The no spark is most likely the ignition relay, ignition module, ignition coil and/or the wiring between them.
Unfortunately the manuals and scan tool really don't help much with diagnostics for these components. That's something they teach us in school. But because there were so many warranty claims with an incorrectly diagnosed ignition module/coil, Volvo published a service bulletin covering troubleshooting this system. That bulletin is S.B. 28-1-6 Most dealers will print you a copy if you ask them. I highly recommend you get a copy before going further. Please try to resist the urge to go out and buy a ignition coil/module! As a dealer tech, I have had many people try to replace parts instead of troubleshooting before bringing it to me. Can get really expensive when that happens.
The fault alarm you hear might be the knock sensor disconnected. I would have to look at a scan tool or the manual to be sure, but if I remember right an open knock sensor will set a horn. It will set a code.
Remember that the scan tool is designed and the manuals are written for a trained technician. The knowledge of how the system works and proper troubleshooting techniques are every important.
Also, don't remove the crank sensor unless you have a new oring. It must be replaced any time the sensor is removed.

 

[mkor]

Thanks for the advice, today I was on the boat again and did the tests, I still don’t have a scanner and it’s too long to wait for it.

Today there was no 12V on the coil, but it turned out to be a wire break in the ignition switch, this has been fixed. Now I see 12V when I turn on the ignition for a few seconds, after 0, when I crank engine I see 12V again. However, there is still no spark.

The ignition module receives 12V for a few seconds, then 0, and 12V comes when the engine is cranking.

The wires between the ignition module and the ignition coil are intact.

On the crankshaft and camshaft sensors, I see 5V, and in the instructions it says that there should be a B + value and decoding that it is 12V, how should it be 5 or 12?

I got to the camshaft sensor but the contacts look great and I can see 150-200rpm on the tach. I didn't change it to a new one.

On the injectors, I see 12V at the moment the ignition is turned on and when the engine is cranking.

I replaced the ignition module and coil, camshaft sensor, cover and distributor rotor.

I checked the fuses and swapped all the relays.

But there is no spark on the wire that comes out of the coil.

Fuel pressure - there is a place on the pump from where you can bleed a little fuel to check, it seemed to me that there should be strong pressure and splash with a large jet, but instead it just flowed through my fingers.

As for the knock sensor, I was wrong, there is a whole wire. It was a wire from the exhaust temperature sensor on the port side.

I still see erroneous readings from the fuel pressure sensor.

I refused to replace the crankshaft sensor, and this is the only sensor that affects the spark that I did not replace. But it is difficult to access it because of the heat exchanger. Do you think it makes sense to replace it or wait for the scanner until May?

 

[mkor]

The only thing I can't do is check the integrity of the signal wires from the sensor to the ecu, since there is no correct wirings diagran. I'll ask the dealer to print out what you mentioned earlier.

 

[alldodge]

Fuel pressure - there is a place on the pump from where you can bleed a little fuel to check, it seemed to me that there should be strong pressure and splash with a large jet, but instead it just flowed through my fingers.

Low side on pump should be 8 or so psi so it should spray out
High side on the fuel rail should be 50 to 60 psi so it should really spray out

 

[mkor]

I don't know how to explain, but I think you understand what I'm talking about. The fuel pump has a black cap, like a bicycle tire. If you unscrew it, there is a nipple, like on a bicycle. I turned on the ignition and heard the operation of the pumps, but when I pressed this nipple, the fuel did not flow strongly, but weakly through my fingers. What could be causing this and could it be due to a lack of spark?

 

[alldodge]

like a bicycle tire. If you unscrew it, there is a nipple

That's called a Schrader valve
There is one on the pump which is the low side and another on the fuel rail where the injectors are attached.

If you had a fuel pressure tester (can be found at local auto parts stores) you could test the pressure
Low side 4 to 12 psi ( 27 to 82 Kpa )
High side 50 to 60 psi ( 345 to 414 Kpa)

If the ECM does not see an spark activity then the injectors will not fire. Still think there should be pressure even without spark. Need to test

Your loosing 12V and then getting it back so need to find out why. As MUC mentioned need to test. Might be a bad relay, bad connection, could even be a bat key switch?

 

[mkor]

Most likely it makes no sense to check the fuel pressure, it does not affect the spark. But I will order a pressure gauge and check when I have free time.

It seems to me that the initial problem was in the ignition switch, yesterday I again wanted to test all parts and there was no 12V on the coil.

I dismantled the lock and saw how 1 clamp flew off, I remembered that last year the keys to the boat were stolen from me and I was forced to replace the lock. This was purchased from a quicksilver store as a standard boat lock. I put the clamp in place and 12V appeared on the coil. There must have been a bad connection the day I swam out. But now it's resolved and I see 12.7V on the coil during engine start.

Once again I will clarify that I see 12V when the ignition is turned on for about 2-3 seconds. Then 0. But when I turn the key, I see 12V. Shouldn't it be?

But again there is no spark, no negative from the ignition module. The wire itself is intact, the contacts are in order.

I no longer know what tests to perform, I think that an error scanner is needed.

The only thing I noticed. That on my batteries at the start drops to 10V voltage. But I guess it's ok.

 

[mkor]

This wire fell off, I covered 2, but this one did not have enough screws and I crimped it. Turns out it needs to be screwed on securely.

And what is the button / relay next to the lock on the right? I never knew what it was.

 

[mkor]

I figured it was a circuit breaker on the + ignition wire, but since the + goes to the coil it's not a problem.

I re-read a few more forums, and there was a person who also checked everything that was possible, but the problem was solved by replacing the ECU.

Question, can Diakom flash the ECU for my boat if I buy it for diagnostics? Or will I have to ask someone to flash it?

The fact is that I will be flying to the US in a week and could bring in a used ECU for little money, since it costs more than 3000 pounds from a local dealer. At the same time, I would buy a diacom in the USA.

 

[alldodge]

There is probably nothing wrong with the fuel system, but we don't know for sure. The fuel pump turns ON for couple seconds prior to cranking. The initial ON should still build to operating pressure. The low side pump will bleed off kind of fast but the high side should not

Diacom cannot re-flash the ECM and no one I know of no one which can.

From the pic, the salt environment is building up on the connections, but hay that's salt

 

[alldodge]

Found this on OSO, has 2 Techmates with 94029
https://www.mercruiserparts.com/496-mag-base-model-0m025000-thru-0m6

 

[alldodge]

Found this on OSO, has 2 Techmates with 94029
https://www.mercruiserparts.com/496-mag-base-model-0m025000-thru-0m6

Have to apologies in advance.
I noticed his add showed it came with 94029 and 94032 which are the adapters I need for my newly bought motors. So I bought one and he just sold the other. Hope you got the first one if you wanted it

 

[Donald0039]

The Diacom while a great product cannot diagnose everything. Sometimes you need a DVM or scope.

On my 2012 the check engine light will light up indicating a problem that the Diacom can then diagnose.

 

[muc]

Volvo published a service bulletin covering troubleshooting this ignition system. That bulletin is S.B. 28-1-6 Most dealers will print you a copy if you ask them. I highly recommend you get a copy and follow it carefully before going further.

 

[mkor]

Found this on OSO, has 2 Techmates with 94029
https://www.mercruiserparts.com/496-mag-base-model-0m025000-thru-0m6

Your page brings mercruiser spare parts

 

[Donald0039]

Volvo published a service bulletin covering troubleshooting this ignition system. That bulletin is S.B. 28-1-6 Most dealers will print you a copy if you ask them. I highly recommend you get a copy and follow it carefully before going further.

What year engines does the SB cover?