Volvo Penta 5.0 GXI-E - Won't roll over

jlsmith1000

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All of those seem to be plugged in all right. I'm wondering if since these were the original plugs these are probably the original plug wires. Are these just standard automotive plug wires or do I need fancy marine plug wires of some sort.
 

alldodge

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Marine or Auto are basically the same, just different lengths. Most marine are longer because they go under the exhaust manifolds where autos go on top

Most times if the motor is missing and its not plugs or fuel its the flat cap (crap cap), there always going bad and look great
 

jlsmith1000

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Marine or Auto are basically the same, just different lengths. Most marine are longer because they go under the exhaust manifolds where autos go on top

Most times if the motor is missing and its not plugs or fuel its the flat cap (crap cap), there always going bad and look great
Well I just did the four plugs on the right side of the engine, rechecked gap which they were all fine there, put them back in reseated the plug wires and It seems to have smoothed out. Think I'll still pick up a set of plug wires and replace them.
 

jlsmith1000

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Yeah be nice to know what the automotive equivalent is, it's about 4 or 5 days to order a set of specific plug wires. I have to check with the marina/boat shop on Monday.
 

alldodge

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I don't know if someone has found a wire set that would work.

Look on line for VP 3888328 or Merc 84-863656A1, both will fit. Could search and with those numbers and find others like Sierra
 

Lou C

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Don’t forget about the distributor cap they are known to fail often. Should really be replaced at the start of each season to avoid problems.
 

ESGWheel

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Yeah be nice to know what the automotive equivalent is....
Based on a strong recommendation it would work I took a chance on the equivalent automotive set but as alldodge says, they were too short and had to buy the OEM marine set.
 

jlsmith1000

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I'm going to replace the cap and wires. Intermittently running rough, so I think the wires, or the cap are likely the cuprite (probably the wires since I pulled them all off to replace the plugs, but per the advice above, will do the cap too.

Question, how loose should the steering be, should I be able to manually push it easily an inch or two in either direction? (left / right)? Is there a way to tighten that up, or that's normal?
 

alldodge

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There is always slop in the wheel with cable steering. All determines the gear in the helm and the cable. Don't know of any way to remove it
 

jlsmith1000

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Jul 23, 2021
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Okay plug wires installed, new distributor cap and rotor. Notice this thing sitting on top of the engine. Can't see where it goes. Looks like it comes out of the valve cover. Wonder if it's just a pressure release but if so does this other end connect someplace
 

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alldodge

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Need to know where it goes just to have an idea.

Is there a spot under the flame arrestor that it might fit?
 

alldodge

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ok, I can see it, but it's so close really didn't know what it was

That's the engine breather hose. It connects under the flame arrestor or right beside it. If the motor has any oil vapors they are drawn into the motor and burned
 

jlsmith1000

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So, went for a first test in the lake tonight. It's funny, I'll start the motor it seems like it shakes a lot turn it off, start it again it's fine and then I ran it around the lake and the motor seemed fine. Initially got out on the water couldn't get enough power to get up on plane. Slowed back down tried to hit plane again and got right up to it. After that it seemed okay. It seems like there's more vibration in the back than I'm used to but maybe that's just me being paranoid.
 

alldodge

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The flame arrestor is the same thing as the air filter/breather on a car. Its the aluminum color thing on top the motor

It takes a but to bleed out all the air in the fuel rail before it goes smooth. If it starts doing it again will need to investigate
 
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