Volvo Penta 5.0 GXI-E - Won't roll over

Scott Danforth

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Dipstick thread is hose thread. Like your garden hose or washing machine hose
 

dubs283

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Also, any idea what the thread on the oil dipstick at the top is? I like how this guy in the video fab'd up a lift hook.

It's 1/2 -13 sae. Shop I worked at a while back used an eye that threaded into the dipstick hole and used a mini hoist to aid in remove/install. Kinda made me nervy as those threads are known to fail at times. Never dropped one but still sketchy

As far as the drive mount nut a 5/8" box end will remove the nut. Might need to force it on past the buggered spots.

The nuts are chrome plated brass, not a super hard material
 
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jlsmith1000

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Yep, ended up having to use a flexible shaft 3/8 extension with a bolt remover, a little heat, and off it came. Built up a handy dandy stand since i wasn't keen on lifting that by the dipstick hole either. Was easy enough for me to pull that lower unit out by myself.

I may have, and I'm no boat mechanic as stated, found the leak... See attached video.

I'm a bit afraid of what that's going to look like when I pull that off of there. Somebody put gobs of gasket/rtv on there which will make it fun to remove anyway. Maybe one of you will say, "oh no, that's how they always look"...but I'm not going to hold my breath.

I see the u-joints are rusted too, so there's definitely been water up there. The splines on the drive shaft are good, I didn't see any water up in the hole the shaft came out of, and there was a big blob of grease up in there. Makes me wonder if they packed in excess grease to keep any water than came by that RTV'd up mess from getting into the gimble bearing. I need to check that yet to make sure it moves smoothly.

Anybody know what that seal/gasket/area is called?

Gobs of RTV 01.jpg

handy dandy stand 02.jpg
 

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jlsmith1000

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Wasn't just a spot around that leaking, was all the way around. The 4 bolts seemed pretty loose too, as in not snugged down. Thankfully, they didn't come of there stripped which was my first fear.

This is the area called out in the drawings, but it doesn't call out any type of seal or gasket... Not sure what I should be looking for.

1688249361664.png
 

alldodge

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U joints look normal
Don't know about the gasket other then that isn't right. VP dude's should be along shortly
 

jlsmith1000

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I think I know why the engine wouldn't roll over until I took the plugs out perhaps. May have been bound by the outdrive when whatever hit the fan, hit the fan. The shaft going into the top of the upper unit doesn't turn cleanly.

I pulled the front shift linkage off of the upper housing and uh oh, there are a lot of shavings in there....

The nut at the top of the housing needs to come off I think to pull that assembly apart. I'm going to try to hunt up a video of disassembly for that area. I suspect there are going to be some replacement parts needed.

1000003623.jpeg1000003624.jpeg1000003625.jpeg
 

Scott Danforth

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VP doesn't use RTV, they rely on orings.

Whomever gooped the RTV didn't help.

Time to get the manual and tear down and inspect everything
 

jlsmith1000

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I've watched this video, but the spot where the shaft goes into the upper housing only came about 1/8" out of the housing, nothing I can do seems to get it to come out. 2 screwdrivers as the guy shows doesn't do squat, and I've just gripped from both sides trying to pull it out, no luck.

1688256610653.png

On another note, where is the thing he said he used to lock the vertical shaft from spinning? do I need to remove the lower off of the unit to get to it?
 

jlsmith1000

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Was looking at remanufactured units, geebus, do folks want a lot of money for those.
 

Scott Danforth

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Yes, there are special VP tools to lock the shaft.

Heck, a remanufactured 1988 AQ290 will set you back $8 BOAT units
 

Donald0039

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You have metal shavings around the cone clutch. Those shavings can circulate in the gear oil throughout the upper and lower drive.

You need to disassemble the entire drive inspect every gear and bearing and replace anything that does not look perfect. Not a trivial task.
 
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jlsmith1000

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As I look at used or remanufactured, the one on my boat is a 1.60 gear ratio, I see there are a number of variants which I expect are used for different engine sizes. Is there a "must be the same as the one I take off" rule or is there a rule of thumb ~1 ratio in either direction is fine? V8 engine.
 

Donald0039

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The gear ratio is in the lower unit. If you determine the problem is in the upper drive you can rebuild the upper or get a rebuilt.

But I would still disassemble the lower unit and inspect.
 

jlsmith1000

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I'm not sure what I'd be looking for other than sloppy bearings and shavings. May be able to get a fully remanufactured outdrive about an hour from me for 3795 Canadian or $2866 us. I will do that if they have one ready to go.
 

jlsmith1000

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Ok, I have a rebuilt upper, and I split the old upper and lower. Looking at the top of the roller bearing at the top of the vertical shaft in the upper, there are few small shavings, but not much, so I'm hopeful that nothing much made it past that bearing into the lower unit. I have a replacement roller bearing, but it seems (by visual inspection) that the bearing is pressed onto the vertical shaft, but not sure. The bearing is #3 in the picture below.

I can't find any videos on replacing that bearing so any advice or a link to an as yet unfound by searching video would be greatly appreciated.

Btw, Happy Independence Day to those in the US and a belated Happy Canada Day to those in Canada.

1688505145307.png
 

dubs283

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The needle bearing assembly pictured #3 is installed/removed most likely with a volvo special tool. Proprietary style
 

alldodge

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I have never worked on the VP drive, only Mercs so take this with that knowledge.

Might be able to use something like a slide hammer puller, but note how the jaws might come in contact with sides. Don't want to damage the housing

Many bearing installer/pullers have many different sizes and if you can find one that just fits the outside edge of the bearing outer race this is a good start. Can place some all-thread thru it and mount nuts below to pull out or design to press in.

Can also use old bearing and hose clamp with a press to press new bearing or seal back in like I did with a B3 seal, see post 26

https://forums.iboats.com/threads/looks-like-im-getting-into-bravo-outdrive-repair.617342/page-2
 

Donald0039

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I believe #14 is a gear oil tube that returns gear oil pumped up to the upper housing. So shavings will circulate. And all bearings should be inspected.
 
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