U-Joints Questions Shims / Spider / Torque Specs VP SX-M

[FluffyChicken]

My carrier seal is leaking and I kind of wanted to do u-joints anyhow. I get a low wum wum wum when turning. I have a few questions if someone can help me.

1. Can I reuse the shims? they popped off in perfect condition. Im hoping that what i read about the oring being the seal is true and I can reuse them.

2. I have the external clips. Is it true that these can be rebuilt but people have trouble with them?

3. Is 3860232 the proper part number for the spiders? Is there by chance any automotive alternative? $200 each price tag for OEM is pretty outrageous IMO. Fount sierras for $100 i think? And some no name brand on ebay for $50 but that kind of freaks me out a bit. Maybe they're ok?

4. The u-joints actually feel pretty smooth and no signs of water damage. Should I just keep them? Just seems like the missing zerk fitting is only going to lead to failure at some point? They seem to be original and have likely 550 hours on them.

5. Any idea on the torque specs for the four external bolts as well as the center bolt the connects the shaft to the gear?

Thank you,

 

[dypcdiver]

I also had the external clips and bought some SKF replacements from local automotive supplier. They have now done 700 hours, re-greased every year.
Sorry I cannot find the specs but supplier knew them just by sight, being quite popular. I made a pusher/puller (see attacment) and did the ones closest to the drive, then did the rest on the bench.
PS. I have the grease nipple/Zerk.

 

[cptbill]

As long as your not changing gears or bearings then yes reuse the plastic shims but replace the big O ring

 

[Scott Danforth]

you need a new crush sleeve when you pull the shaft off the gear. you have to set the bearing rolling torque correctly

 

[FluffyChicken]

you need a new crush sleeve when you pull the shaft off the gear. you have to set the bearing rolling torque correctly

I also had the external clips and bought some SKF replacements from local automotive supplier. They have now done 700 hours, re-greased every year.
Sorry I cannot find the specs but supplier knew them just by sight, being quite popular. I made a pusher/puller (see attacment) and did the ones closest to the drive, then did the rest on the bench.
PS. I have the grease nipple/Zerk.

As long as your not changing gears or bearings then yes reuse the plastic shims but replace the big O ring

Crush sleeve just installed tonight but noticed something about the new seal which I'm making a separate post about.

Bought a dial torque wrench for this job. Hope it works ok. Its a cheaper one not the $3-400 good brands.

Man I really wish someone knew the part/specs for the automotive ones. I'd love to find a reasonably priced outer clip style with a zerk fitting. I may just take the driveshaft in with me??

Thanks everyone

 

[Scott Danforth]

I use a $40 inline fish scale and a bit of string myself

 

[FluffyChicken]

Wow thats actually a pretty good idea

 

[FluffyChicken]

I also had the external clips and bought some SKF replacements from local automotive supplier. They have now done 700 hours, re-greased every year.
Sorry I cannot find the specs but supplier knew them just by sight, being quite popular. I made a pusher/puller (see attacment) and did the ones closest to the drive, then did the rest on the bench.
PS. I have the grease nipple/Zerk.

Any chance they were the Moog 344 type?

I keep seeing so much conflicting info on the web.

 

[Fun Times]

Man I really wish someone knew the part/specs for the automotive ones. I'd love to find a reasonably priced outer clip style with a zerk fitting. I may just take the driveshaft in with me??

Not sure on the zerk fitting or not but fitment info should of been in the
MUST HAVE Technical Information for DIYers. sticky under # 3 Volvo Penta then number 5 as noted in the following,
5. SX and DP-S Ujoints with outside keepers.
Grrrrrrrrr ! Wrong Universal Spyder - Page 1 - 367174 < is now the following link, https://forums.iboats.com/threads/grrrrrrrrr-wrong-universal-spyder.359265/

Volvo C1 DP U-joint Cross Reference - Page 1 - 296325 , is now the following link, https://forums.iboats.com/threads/volvo-c1-dp-u-joint-cross-reference.290960/

The sticky for this one has been repaired/added as the following.

 

[dypcdiver]

Hi Fluffy Chicken
It was about 18 years ago, so sorry all reciepts etc have long gone.
I did mine institute, hence the cut out on the pusher to clear the input housing.
I was just checking the late "Don's" posts in the Adults only section and "Fun Times" beat me to the link.

 

[FluffyChicken]

Not sure on the zerk fitting or not but fitment info should of been in the
MUST HAVE Technical Information for DIYers. sticky under # 3 Volvo Penta then number 5 as noted in the following,
5. SX and DP-S Ujoints with outside keepers.
Grrrrrrrrr ! Wrong Universal Spyder - Page 1 - 367174 < is now the following link, https://forums.iboats.com/threads/grrrrrrrrr-wrong-universal-spyder.359265/

Volvo C1 DP U-joint Cross Reference - Page 1 - 296325 , is now the following link, https://forums.iboats.com/threads/volvo-c1-dp-u-joint-cross-reference.290960/

The sticky for this one has been repaired/added as the following.

Very nice. Thank you.

Looks like i'll be trying the following from that thread.
Neapco 1-005 NOTE: This ujoint may have grease zirks in caps. DO NOT use if they do.
Spicer 5.4x
Precision 344
Rockford K4

Any chance that Precision 344's are the same as Moog 344's? Ive seen a lot about Moog and they have the same model number. EDIT (QUICK GOOGLE SEARCH SHOWS THAT MOOG AND PRECISION ARE THE SAME)