Re: trolling plate
dingbat- your reply makes a lot of sense. As far as running on two cyls. instead of four: this WOULD be detrimental to the rod bearings and pistons. Compares well to why pistons and rod bearings last longer in a turbocharged gasoline or diesel engine; there is never any slack to rattle anything around. I would speculate that the two that aren't firing probably get more wear.
Just to add fodder to the fire
I thought I would mention that Mercury promotes this little add-on feature they have where their big 200HP+ motors can be idled way down by turning a knob on the tach. This is for trolling. And I suppose Mercury does this cuz they want more engines of theirs to fail?:facepalm:
Propulsion force has a lot of different components that act on anything moving: torque, impact, point loads, distributed loads, rotational/centrifugal loads, axial loads, accelerating loads, static loads. While in theory some certain load may increase while trolling, engineering math will win the argument that the major loads while trolling are extremely small compared to run 40mph in a 6000# boat at 5500 rpm. While I suppose movement of the hypoid gears at trolling speeds theoretically would facilitate increased wear of the slider/clutch and perhaps the gears there are two factors to consider: that your lubricant in the lower unit should support the gears and bearings (keep them from metal-to-metal contact) better at the lower contact load compared to high RPM; and, that the gears and bearings are designed to withstand full-throttle use at max horsepower of the motor (in my case, 40 HP) so running at 1.75 HP (guessing here) shouldn't stress anything.
I betcha I troll 200+ hours (and probably more) a year with that 1985 motor and I have done it for years. The only thing that has worn out is the plastic pivot bushings cuz as much as love that Suzuki it was never reviewed well for its smoothness at low rpms. I have replaced them about every other year and I think they are due again. $7 plus shipping.
I see no difference between a trolling plate or drift socks or trim tabs as far as the motor is concerned.
Back to the topic:
The automatic trolling plate I use I modified by adding 2 heavy springs. Actually changed out the OEMs as well so I run four heavy springs. It needed that to be manageable and not get blown back and negate its presence. The other mod is hole I drilled in it through which I tied a length of parachute cord. The cord has a loop on the other end which I slip over the pull-start grip while trolling to allow me to pull it u pif I want/need to. Under conditions 98% of the time I pull the rope up over the motor cover and slip the loop onto the head of a steering arm bolt. (I troll from .8mph to 1.8/1.9mph with a 45# MinnKota)
Downside to a trolling plate: I lost about 2.3mph at WOT when I installed it. Take it off, I get it back. With a lot of gear aboard (which is usually :-O) I lose a little more. I get about 29.2 top speed with trolling plate and a lot of fishing equipment. I have clocked 34.x gps with 2 adults aboard but without the electric downriggers, trolling motor, or extra battery aboard. But that isn't that big of a deal to me cuz my light boat is a heck of a lot nicer ride at 22mph and I save wicked noticeable amount of gas slowing down a little, too.
