Transom issue

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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When the old transom is removed and the new 2" wood core is fabricated and glued in...There will be NO NEED for any reinforcing mechanisms. It will a TANK and if properly maintained and cared for...It'll last 2-3 decades.;)

iBoats sells Bimini tops in all sizes!!
 

EchoNovember

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May 25, 2017
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Should I use Marine Grade plywood to maximize strength? I'm debating adding a 8 HP kicker as the lakes closest to me have a 8 HP limit, and I'm also tying to figure out if I want a transom or bow mount trolling motor.

We discovered, to our chagrin, that the deck was a little weak and the ski locker is wet and rotting. So now we're planning to replace the transom this summer, and use the insulated garage to do a resto this winter. Our dream is to make it switchable between pleasure boat and fishing boat.

Ideas:

For watersports: Reinforced transom for skiing, tubing, and a kicker motor that's removable when doing water sports, two fold out seats that can turn into loungers.

For fishing: the fold flats come out and on one side seats with a live well underneath with the driver's seat forward and a higher fishing seat aft (currently on the boat), the other side would have a fishing seat post mount under the fold flat for a single seat, and a tall fishing seat up in the bow, and a kicker motor for smaller lakes, plus a trolling motor.

For cruising around: same as watersports, but a retractable cover plus a bow cover, that way we can anchor in a bay and camp out in the boat on calm nights. Probably add bug netting in there somehow.

Thoughts on this? I'll be starting a separate thread for it once i get to my computer.

Still need to figure out how to make the transom almost bulletproof and as strong as possible. For now I'm going to seal up those openings with globs of sealant. Bilge pump got a work out this weekend from all the water draining from the splashwell into the bilge.

Also learned something very important this weekend: make sure to put in the drain plug before launching. I saw the back sitting lower than it should have, asked my fiancee if she put the plug in because i hadn't, and quickly pulled the boat out. Thankfully the trailer was still in the water. With the bilge pump running and boat sitting on an incline with the plug still out , it still took about 20-30 minutes to drain out all that water... Whoops.
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
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Should I use Marine Grade plywood to maximize strength? I'm debating adding a 8 HP kicker as the lakes closest to me have a 8 HP limit, and I'm also tying to figure out if I want a transom or bow mount trolling motor.

You will find most guys don't use Marine Grade Plywood as CDX provides almost the same things, just a few more voids. You can back fill voids with epoxy and such. I plan on using BCX when it gets tot hat point for me.



We discovered, to our chagrin, that the deck was a little weak and the ski locker is wet and rotting. So now we're planning to replace the transom this summer, and use the insulated garage to do a resto this winter. Our dream is to make it switchable between pleasure boat and fishing boat.

Many guys on here found the same thing. At this point, it might be worth looking at pulling out the floor and Transom to do a full restore. Make it better then before!!!


Ideas:

For watersports: Reinforced transom for skiing, tubing, and a kicker motor that's removable when doing water sports, two fold out seats that can turn into loungers.

For fishing: the fold flats come out and on one side seats with a live well underneath with the driver's seat forward and a higher fishing seat aft (currently on the boat), the other side would have a fishing seat post mount under the fold flat for a single seat, and a tall fishing seat up in the bow, and a kicker motor for smaller lakes, plus a trolling motor.

For cruising around: same as watersports, but a retractable cover plus a bow cover, that way we can anchor in a bay and camp out in the boat on calm nights. Probably add bug netting in there somehow.

I know I haven't finished my boat, but I have learned to remember this is a 16' boat. So not very big, so keep that in mind. I am still having some issues with my design as well because like you I want a pleasure/fishing boat. Some guys would say to not build in a livewell and just use a bucket. I personally will be building in two livewells.



Still need to figure out how to make the transom almost bulletproof and as strong as possible. For now I'm going to seal up those openings with globs of sealant. Bilge pump got a work out this weekend from all the water draining from the splashwell into the bilge.

I know WOG says your transom will be a tank when you restore it and I agree with him based on his knowledge and all of his experience; however, I will also say that for some reason, overbuilding something makes me sleep better at night. I don't think you can go wrong either way. Just WOG has a lot more experience to back up his recommendations. LOL
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
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When our boats are both restored I think it'd be fun to meet up for a fishing trip. I'm also looking forward to seeing how your restoration goes, and getting ideas and help from you and everyone else here.


By all means!!!! You in the Houston, TX area????
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
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Messages
1,725
I was thinking about putting a reinforcement bar across the inside of the transom that will run directly forward of the motor mount, that way the motor pushing forward on the transom pushes directly on that bar on the other side of the transom, taking virtually all stress off the boat itself and anyone being towed might as well have just harnessed a boat motor. I'm also wondering about the practicality of building a square aluminum tube into the transom when I rebuild it, but I think that will affect the overall strength of the transom...


I was thinking of doing something similar. But I plan on having two smaller knee brackets manufactured and bolt to the back side of the transom eyes and then bolt those to the flooring. Give some room to space out all of the force of tubing as well as motor push.
 

gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,604
Before going too much further, you need to post some pictures of the overall boat from the sides and even inside and then we can see what you are working with and see how your ideas could work. We've seen the transom gap, but other then that, we have no idea what your boat actually looks like. So time to post a lot more pictures and then we can offer better ideas and suggestions to help you achieve your goal. JMHO
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
Joined
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Messages
1,725
Before going too much further, you need to post some pictures of the overall boat from the sides and even inside and then we can see what you are working with and see how your ideas could work. We've seen the transom gap, but other then that, we have no idea what your boat actually looks like. So time to post a lot more pictures and then we can offer better ideas and suggestions to help you achieve your goal. JMHO


+1 :D

We like pictures... I never liked books that didn't have pretty pictures in it. LOL
 

211libwtfo

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jul 29, 2016
Messages
346
I have rebuilt a Starcraft transom. I jus used "regular" plywood sealed it and when it was put together it was a tank. I hung a 90hp v-4 rude on the back and pulled skiers tubes no flex no prob. I definitely used a transom saver. It took about a day and a half of work. Less drying times. When I rebuilt the interior all I put back in was two captains chairs to maximize room. Best fishing boat EVER.
 

EchoNovember

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Joined
May 25, 2017
Messages
315
By all means!!!! You in the Houston, TX area????

ROAD TRIP! Or somewhere in between. Or I head south on the Mississippi and you head north and we'll see where we meet? Hmm, maybe there needs to be a gathering of the Starmada, SS 160 division. Can you imagine how cool it would be for a fleet of SS 160s to travel in formation across a large lake?

Sorry, imagination ran away with my fingers for a moment.
 

EchoNovember

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 25, 2017
Messages
315
You will find most guys don't use Marine Grade Plywood as CDX provides almost the same things, just a few more voids. You can back fill voids with epoxy and such. I plan on using BCX when it gets tot hat point for me.





Many guys on here found the same thing. At this point, it might be worth looking at pulling out the floor and Transom to do a full restore. Make it better then before!!!




I know I haven't finished my boat, but I have learned to remember this is a 16' boat. So not very big, so keep that in mind. I am still having some issues with my design as well because like you I want a pleasure/fishing boat. Some guys would say to not build in a livewell and just use a bucket. I personally will be building in two livewells.





I know WOG says your transom will be a tank when you restore it and I agree with him based on his knowledge and all of his experience; however, I will also say that for some reason, overbuilding something makes me sleep better at night. I don't think you can go wrong either way. Just WOG has a lot more experience to back up his recommendations. LOL

Over-engineering is proper engineering. The stronger the better. We can build it better, faster, stronger than it was before... When we redo the restore, we plan on building it as strong as possible. We just had a bunk bracket break on the trailer, and the boat when on the trailer rests on the bow roller and stern rollers, not the bunks, so we lucked out and the bunk didn't shift and let the bracket post puncture the hull. However, now we need to get the boat off the trailer and repair the bunks while we're at the transom, two. Our next outing is planned for three weeks away, so here's hoping we can get it all done by then...

For the fishing/pleasure boat, if I removed the fold flat seats from their mount, in that little compartment would be a floor mount for a fishing seat. Everything to convert from one use to the other would be mounted and hidden until needed, and the pieces for each use would be stored until needed or transported with for long trips and left at camp. I'd have one livewell, but I'd love to figure out a way to do two.
 

EchoNovember

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May 25, 2017
Messages
315
I was thinking of doing something similar. But I plan on having two smaller knee brackets manufactured and bolt to the back side of the transom eyes and then bolt those to the flooring. Give some room to space out all of the force of tubing as well as motor push.

Let me how you end up doing this as I want to be able to tow up to a 18' boat with mine. My brother has a tri-hull with engine issues, and I want to be able to bail him out if/when needed. Lol. Plus, you know, over-engineering and sleeping better at night.
 

EchoNovember

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 25, 2017
Messages
315
Before going too much further, you need to post some pictures of the overall boat from the sides and even inside and then we can see what you are working with and see how your ideas could work. We've seen the transom gap, but other then that, we have no idea what your boat actually looks like. So time to post a lot more pictures and then we can offer better ideas and suggestions to help you achieve your goal. JMHO

I'll unleash a flood of photos later today if I can. I'm also going to need to hunt down how to quiet down and tune up my old Mercury 75. It's hard starting, loud, and smelly. Sounds like it's running rich.
 

EchoNovember

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Joined
May 25, 2017
Messages
315
When the old transom is removed and the new 2" wood core is fabricated and glued in...There will be NO NEED for any reinforcing mechanisms. It will a TANK and if properly maintained and cared for...It'll last 2-3 decades.;)

iBoats sells Bimini tops in all sizes!!

I want it to tank a tank, tow skiiers, tubes, and even a disabled boat if needed, since my brother is restoring a boat and having engine issues, but won't repower it just yet. Last time it died, he had to drift into shore. IIRC, he had paddles...but left them on shore.

Bimini top may have been the wrong thing. I am looking for the retractable tops that attach to the windshield. Kind of like the car tops for convertibles. We want to be able to shield ourselves from unexpected rain, and from excess splash. We crashed through the wake of a big 30' cabin cruiser on Lake Minnetonka, and the bow almost went under. It came up to the bow and stopped just shy, but it splashed us all a bit.

Never going to that lake again, either. Everyone was rip roaring across it with no consideration for other boats. Had a cabin cruiser force us off course. She was 75' off our starboard, slowly overtaking, and steering to port, forcing us to match heading. So I cut the throttle, waited for her to pass, pushed the throttle back up and angled into the wake. Was kind of fun riding the wake at low speeds, but it scared the crap out of our 7 year old daughter. It was our first time out, too. Just glad I remembered some of the things my dad taught me as a kid, and he was there to remind of what I forgot! We went for a fishing trip, and caught one sunny as there were so many boats racing at full throttle, jet skis, and big cabin cruisers going fast enough to get up on plane.

Btw, when on plane, how hard of a hit can an aluminum hull take when hit small waves/wakes? Some of them seemed really small, but it was a jarring hit that sounded solid. There were multiple of them, too. It was one of the times we were able to get some clear open water. Took on a lot in the bilge, too.
 

EchoNovember

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 25, 2017
Messages
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I have rebuilt a Starcraft transom. I jus used "regular" plywood sealed it and when it was put together it was a tank. I hung a 90hp v-4 rude on the back and pulled skiers tubes no flex no prob. I definitely used a transom saver. It took about a day and a half of work. Less drying times. When I rebuilt the interior all I put back in was two captains chairs to maximize room. Best fishing boat EVER.

Which transom saver do you use?
 

211libwtfo

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Messages
346
It was jus a straight one the U shape went on the trailer and is cinched down with a ratchet strap. But I live 2 blocks from the marina. And I've got you solution to making your merc more quiet........make sure the next time you go out there's another boat with ya go somewhere nice and quiet and deep....unbolt that pos and let her sink you'll never hear it again. That's the exact motor I had on ours. The best thing ever was putting this 90 hp rude on it. It was a 1/4 the noise of that @&$)$&@@() merc. And know we've got a 22' liberator with a bbf 460 open exhaust soo not really talking over this motor.
 

ezmobee

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Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Bimini top may have been the wrong thing. I am looking for the retractable tops that attach to the windshield. Kind of like the car tops for convertibles. We want to be able to shield ourselves from unexpected rain, and from excess splash. We crashed through the wake of a big 30' cabin cruiser on Lake Minnetonka, and the bow almost went under. It came up to the bow and stopped just shy, but it splashed us all a bit.

Those are actually called "convertible tops" and are less of a universal fit than biminis.
 

EchoNovember

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Messages
315
New post for the pending restoration project and the upgrades. This thread can stick to help with my transom replacement now.
 

EchoNovember

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Joined
May 25, 2017
Messages
315
It was jus a straight one the U shape went on the trailer and is cinched down with a ratchet strap. But I live 2 blocks from the marina. And I've got you solution to making your merc more quiet........make sure the next time you go out there's another boat with ya go somewhere nice and quiet and deep....unbolt that pos and let her sink you'll never hear it again. That's the exact motor I had on ours. The best thing ever was putting this 90 hp rude on it. It was a 1/4 the noise of that @&$)$&@@() merc. And know we've got a 22' liberator with a bbf 460 open exhaust soo not really talking over this motor.

That's the one that sits on the rear roller, right? I don't have a rear roller in the right position, I have a crossbar and I am hesitant to drill into it to mount the bracket.
 

EchoNovember

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Okay, buying the plywood next week. I have two questions.

First, marine grade or exterior grade? Which one will be strongest for towing skiers, tubers, and my brother's 16' or 18' fiberglaas boat if the engine dies on the lake? Either grade I'll be sealing it with Gluvit.

Second, what should I use to glue the two 3/4" sheets together?

Oh, and should I over drill the motor mount holes, fill with epoxy, then re-drill? Or just use 5200 to seal the holes when mounting the motor?
 

SHSU

Lieutenant Junior+Starmada Splash Of The Year 2019
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Okay, buying the plywood next week. I have two questions.

First, marine grade or exterior grade? Which one will be strongest for towing skiers, tubers, and my brother's 16' or 18' fiberglaas boat if the engine dies on the lake? Either grade I'll be sealing it with Gluvit.


JMHO

Most guys will tell you to buy the exterior grade.

Don't seal with Gluvit, everything I have read says that is not the product you want to use on wood to seal. I am sure some others will chime in on what is better to use.

Second, what should I use to glue the two 3/4" sheets together?

Oh, and should I over drill the motor mount holes, fill with epoxy, then re-drill? Or just use 5200 to seal the holes when mounting the motor?

To secure the two pieces together I plan on using Tightbond III and lots of screws.

As for over drilling and back filling,I have seen other's do this, if I do epoxy, I would but I think I will be doing poly, which I don't think I can do the same. I am sure someone will chime in on this.

Also, see below link that Woodonglass has referencing how to rebuild a transom. Great info and a good place to start

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...1961-lonestar-flamingo-splashed-w-pics/page42
 
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