Re: Took the head off my motor, heres a video explaining everything.
Its relatively easy... Put shifter into forward, remove shift and throttle linkage at motor, remove gas line to pump, remove connections at starter solenoid, unplug main wiring harness and any other connections that need to go, remove lower cowl cover, there are eight nuts (if I remember right) loosen them, put a lift ring on the crank, and lift it off.
Set up a table, long picnic sort. Then set the motor on one end while removing the ignition system, carbs, and other small misc. parts. Lay everything out so as to keep track. Then start removing the bolts that hold the block halves together. You will need to remove the reed plates to get at the allen head bolts (4 I think 2 in each opening) these hold the center of the case halves together. Once all the bolts are out, you can pry on the block in the designated pry spots (opposite corners on the block, top and bottom). You may need to smack the crank upwards with a rubber mallet to break the seal, as sometimes they are really stubborn and prying just wont do it.
Once the halves are seperated you will need a 12pt 1/4 inch socket to remove the rod cap bolts. Remove the bolts, remove the caps, but keep the orientation of the rod caps with the corresponding rod. Remove the bearing cage half, needle bearings, repeat on all four. Then lift crank out, you are now free to push the pistons out of the block, and inspect the damage.
If you are lucky, and only have damage to one cylinder, a rebore will cost $50-$75, new piston and pin kit $115-$135, new block seal kit $40-$60, new rings for all four $22-$25 per set?
Specialty tools, 1/4" 12pt socket, torque wrench, timing light, hone.
If you have any piston skirt damage you need to replace the piston. I have a feeling you will have way more damage than just the bottom piston, but you never know
Remember to inspect the crank surfaces where the rods ride. If you have damage there things can get iffy.
