Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

[GA_Boater]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

I'm guessin' the straps were your third hand. LOL Hope you left the nut on. It worked and that's all that counts.

I use a drill bit just big enough to take the head off and just enough pressure to bite into the rivet head. Center punch, start small and work your way up until you figure out the right size, then you can use the final size on all the rest. Just try to center punch in the center. I don't drill through the rivet because that can end up with a larger hole. Once the head spins off, punch the shank and out she comes.

Dollar stores sell noodles for a buck starting in the spring. I don't care for noodles because of all the air in the spacing. Sheets are next and the top drawer choice is expanding foam. I used sheets simply due to cost.

Clean up is the worst. Except for paint stripping and trailer work. Knuckle down, just keep your head down and soon you will look up and say "OMG, it's finally done"

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Thanks GA actually I had intended for the straps to be a third hand but I had liquid wrenched it before I went to bed last night and just the slightest pressure with the straps and it popped right off. Thanks for the advice I believe I will be using the sheets then.

I did a little more research on the birch and called them the reason it is so cheap is because it is Russian import. So if that changes anyone's opinion let me now it is from a lumber liquidator.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

It doesn't really matter where the birch plywood comes from, birch is indoor grade plywood and is just not suitable for marine applications.

Show us a pic or 2 of the rivets in question... the center punch and drill-out works well, but an angle grinder and metal cutting wheel will take the heads off quicker if they aren't in an exposed/eyesore area.

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Read you loud and clear, I will get some pics of the rivets tomorrow. I am at work presently trying to support this addiction.

I have a whole lot of rivets in the stringers that are just hanging loose so my plan is just to cut those with a grinder as they will never be seen and there is no tension on them (the plywood rotted away around them).

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

It doesn't really matter where the birch plywood comes from, birch is indoor grade plywood and is just not suitable for marine applications.

Generally, I'd agree w/ Jig, but.......

Since you're location isn't posted, this is readily available in Canada & can be gotten state-side but is harder to find here:

Hey Shawn, if that is the 15 ply Baltic Birch from Windsor Plywood, they assured me it was water proof glue and good for exterior use if sealed up properly.

IT IS NOT $17/sheet birch ply, however.

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Oh I understand the place that I am looking at is about an hour and a half from me. Either way I think I am going to be buying my lumber from them they carry alot of stuff I can't get exactly locally.

For instance 3/4" arauco ac exterior in my area is $55.00 per sheet I can get it through this supplier at $30 per sheet so just one sheet pays for the gas. They stock Red, white and Russian birch for $30 per sheet local lumber yards here are running about $15.00 more per sheet.

They are much lower on everything, and stock alot of stuff I can't get locally like IPE and OKUME that I can't get here.

I am in East Tennessee. Like I can get true Baltic Birch pieces 3/8" in 12"x60" for $3.50.

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Not a whole lot of progress today but a little more.

I cleaned more of the junk out of the bow, and got the bow supports drilled and removed.

I am getting ready to go online and order epoxy, and gluvit does anybody have any idea or remember about how much they used on the transom and floor?

Would a gallon of gluvit be enough?


The hardest part thus far has been my shopvac seems to clog every thirty seconds.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

A quart of Gluvit was enough just about do all my rivets and seams. Started from the back and worked forward figuring if it ran out up in the bow that wouldn't be a big deal. Deck epoxy varies greatly depending on how thirsty the wood is and the application method. I put two coats on each side of my deck boards and hit the edges with every coat. Mine sucked up 3 gallons!

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Hey ez so would that be like 2 gallons epoxy to one gallon of hardner?

 

[dozerII]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Making great progress Sig. I agree tear down and trailer rebuilds are the worst. The Baltic Birch I used was exterior and very nice ply,13 or 15 ply and pefectly flat. I had some left over from a stained glass project the Admiral was working on, otherwise it is too expensive for boat restores.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Hey Sig, I suggest you go with the 2 gallon kit of the 635 4:1 ratio fast set at this time of year. Epoxy can be cranky during the cooler part of the year, your coats will set and cure faster with the 4:1 but will still take about 4 hrs. to set and 24 hrs. to cure... so that's one coat per piece and one side per day.

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Hey Jig,

Would you still suggest that considering the epoxy work with be done in the heated garage?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Hey Jig,

Would you still suggest that considering the epoxy work with be done in the heated garage?

Even in a heated garage, unless you crank the thermostat up to 80*.

I've seen several folks on here complaining about their epoxy taking so long to set and cure in heated garages and basements.

You can use the medium 3:1 hardener, but you'll have to keep it pretty warm in there. I used the 3:1 in 90*+ heat and it still took 4 hours to set and 24 hrs. to cure.

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

never mind answered my own question.

It looks like I am going to go back to 1/2" for the floor, side panels, and consoles. Will probably be using 3/4" to rebuild the seats and transom. I do have an interesting question do the fronts of the consoles have plywood in them I would suspect that they should because there is a piece of angle there that it appears the seat attaches to, but there was absolutely no ply behind the vinyl in mine. I am just assuming that it all rotted away.



I have also done a little research as well what does everyone think about using vinylester resin on the transom, and floors?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

One more question is epoxy or poly resin better?

Comments like this will have the mob after you :facepalm:

Epoxy for tinny's :tinfoil3:

Poly is for glassers......


Actually, you can use either but for what you need to do on the SC, epoxy will work better

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

well you know total newbie to doing the actual restoration work. Of course I am looking to save money the admiral laid the rules down NO debt for the toys including no cc debt for the purchases so all of this is cash and carry, and most of it is being funded by my quitting smoking which is why i am anticipating the delay in the resto.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Polyester resin is weak and brittle by itself and won't last unless you use the fiberglass cloth with it, the poly resin looks cheaper until you add in the coast of the fiberglass cloth/mat... then there isn't that much difference and the cloth and resin is a lot more involved than brushing on epoxy.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Preaching to the choir Re: the Admiral & funding

Poly isn't as waterproof, and the added expense of cloth makes it less budget friendly. If you have access to local vender of poly resin & glass, but not epoxy, it could be more viable. But that source most likely would carry epoxy too.

Using spar varnish, although not as long term & requiring much more frequent maintenance, is a much more budget friendly option....

Since you have to cover the epoxy w/ paint, vinyl or spar varnish epoxy carries additional costs too.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

Since you have to cover the epoxy w/ paint, vinyl or spar varnish epoxy carries additional costs too.

You forgot carpet.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Time to get started on the starcraft resto.

And carpet