Shot my daughter's .270 today ... Got it dialed in fairly close ... We shot the 2 boxes that came with the gun. Now we will switch to our reloads and see where we are. Seems to be a fairly consistent gun.
As for collections, I have almost all of all my grandfather's guns. Just a few of them went to my brothers. I keep saying that I will sell or trade some, but the truth is, once they make it into the house, they can never leave ...
aspeck, I used to zero rifles for everybody because I can literally zero a rifle in in about 3 to 4 shots. There is a really simple trick to it. First thing you need to do is forget about the usual 1/4" click adjustments. That is really only good if you are absolutely sitting 100 yards from the target, and Not 95 yards or even 110 yards. So with a typical bolt action, you remove the bolt. Set the rifle on a tripod (adjustable front shooting rest) with sand bags supporting it so it doesn't move. Then look down the empty barrel and focus the center of the barrel on an object about a 100 yards away. It really doesn't matter the exact distance, just some bright easy to see spot. then with out moving the gun, set the scope crosshairs at that exact same shiny object. Now you are really to shoot your first round. It won't be exactly on. but very close.
Next thing to do is shoot two or three rounds at the center of the target regardless when you see the rounds hitting on the target. It doesn't matter if they are hitting high, low, left or right as long as they are grouping on the target. Two rounds can do it after you learn the technique. After shooting those rounds, take a look at where the rounds hit. I usually walk downrange (with everybody stop shooting and all guns opened) and see where the rounds hit. Then I take a magic marker and circle those rounds on the target. Make the circle close enough to the actual holes and dark enough to be easily seen.
Next I take the same rifle and sight the center of the target again like you did for the first round of shots. Then sand bag the rifle so it can't move from that position. Sometimes a helper can hold it solid. You have to have the rifle positioned on the same center of the target your previously shot from. Now what you are seeing downrange from the scope it exactly where the barrel is pointed and shooting. So now you move the crosshairs over the previous shot grouping and I guarantee you your next shot will be dead center of where ever your crosshairs are pointed.
The thing folks have to remember is you are adjusting the sights, be it a scope or even open sights, to where the rifle shoots. Not the other way around. And once you see where the rifle hits, you adjust the scope to that position. Now if you are doing the same thing with a auto=loader that you can't sight down the empty barrel. Use the side of the barrel to get you on paper. Then follow the same procedures. It works every time and no need to waste costly ammunition.
One year the evening before opening day of deer season, I zeroed 17 high-power rifles in one evening for folks. And some of those rifles had never even been shot before. They bought them new and came out to the range for me to zero them. Yes, I know sounds silly, but I don't allow recoil to hamper my shooting. The actual funny thing about that evening was the owners of those rifles asked me after I zeroed them in, if they could shoot their rifles. My answer was it is your rifle why ask me? Yes my arm takes a beating, but I don't let the recoil ever effect my concentration when zeroing or shooting any rifle. And yes I have zeroed 300WIN Mags and 300 Weatherby Mags before as well.
Sorry for such a long boring post. :facepalm: :sorry:
