Been wondering if I should go ahead and bolt it and torch. It’s not like I’m removing the engine off and on. What are your thoughts on a transom saver while trailering? I’ve used one on all my bass boats. I grit my teeth every time I hit a rough spot and watch the motor flexing the transom.
I was told the original owner did all of that. They had a jet drive lower unit on it but kept it when the guy I got it from bought the boat. I’m solo most of the time. Haven’t had anybody in it since I’ve done the cabs. I have taken a big ice chest about half full ( to simulate for her) plus my gear in the boat it does good at the second pin with the motor tucked in just a little which is where I’ve been leaving it for better handling. Would like to try to go up a pitch on the prop but that will have to be later. I’ve got a big puzzle I’m trying to solve. I’m still needing to change the trailer up for loading and unloading. Im thinking this isn’t the original trailer and it’s a little small for the boat. Thought about putting a cross bunk up where the frame meets the tongue but I’m afraid it my stick unloading. There’s a small roller there now but to much weight was on it. I’ve raised the bunks in the rear and took the weight off but now the center is off all the center rollers which can’t be raised. I don’t know if the bunk supports are enough or should I lower it back down? I’ve added another roller with a bracket on the tongue since I took this picture and adjusted the winch. Had to move the jack. It floats off the trailer but was hanging on the bow stop so bad that when I let the winch out a little the boat slammed down on the spar tire. Have hopes the extra roller will cure that at least.
I am running it below 90 deg. now. I haven’t been out to check the tach again. Been busy with other things. I’m getting a spare prop further down the road. Good idea to have one around here. By then I’ll know if I need a different pitch or not.
I was adjusting the winch and a few other things in this picture. I keep it jacked up to drain. You’re right when I raised the bunks an inch and raised the winch it took weight off the front roller but the boat isn’t level. When launching the lip hangs on the bow stop and once slipped off it slamming on the front of the trailer I’ve added a roller but haven’t been to the ramp yet. I built a different bow stop also. The old one was a small hard rubber. This one should move with the boat.
By the time I can afford the new prop I’ll know all I need to know is what I’m saying. It’s going to be a while. Working on closing on a house right now.
Looks like wrong trailer for that boat.
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Yes sir. I didn’t realize it when I bought it for a project boat. Now I’m kind of stuck trying to make it work. Was thinking of a cross bunk where the frame meets the tongue. There’s a 5” roller there now that was pinched and not working until I got some of the weight off it and fixed it. Now I’m having the other problems. Not sure if a cross bunk is the right thing to do or not. Boats a 1982 Monark 1652 so I’m thinking not the original trailer. It’s in good shape. No corrosion, just to small.
I’m in central Texas in land fishing. A stump on a lake or rock on the river though. Think I will bolt it. I check it out before every trip how ever. My last time out it was windy and I was on the bow running the trolling motor in the waves. The clamps must have loosened on around the 5 th hour I turn sharp and the trolling motor popped off. I was doing a Bill Dance getting it shut off and back on board. Lol I’ll be checking the clamps every hour from now on. And use a lanyard. Wouldn’t happen to know what the best metal my bolts should be so they don’t react to aluminum? I know to use a sealant but this will be my first time putting a bolt through a transom.
Thanks. One more question. Do you use a transom saver while on the road? When I leave the highway I swear I see the motor back there flexing the transom on the uneven paths I go down.
Oh,on post 239 in the picture you can see the Velcro on the handle. That’s where the tach rides. When at home it’s under the front of the cowl to keep it out of the weather. It’s ran straight from the first plug wire to there. Going down that side of the motor also keeps it away from any other wiring. I need to launch the boat run it to check the tach. Then come in and adjust the trailer at the dock. My problem is I keep wanting to fish every time I go and I’m not getting all my maintenance done. It’s been 2 or 3 weeks so I need to at least run it.
my rig is high enough while on trailer that I leave the motor down while trailering and have not hit anything yet.
Hello searider, it’s been a while and I’m hoping to get back at the boat soon. I raised the left side of the trailer to help the rain drain and discovered that I have to now do the wheel bearings. Everything maintenance wise was completely neglected by the previous owner. I have a question for you about a discovery I made. Remember me complaining about hard starting and rough idle and a sneeze, not priming right either. After a whole new fuel system and completely rebuilt carburetors.I tried adjusting all three pilots one at a time but never got a change either way. My discovery was the new fuel connectors on the motor side were not matching up and sealing. Leaking fuel of course. I replaced them with the old ones and it now holds prime great and no leaks. Problem is I have not been able to run it yet and it’s driving me crazy and its going to be a little while longer. Do you think I could have solved my problems? I’m wondering if the connectors where sucking air? I hope so after all I have in it. And I need it running good to check rpms at wot because I’m going to have to get another prop soon. I don’t know if I clipped something at the ramp but I noticed the prop has a bend on the tip of a blade with a small crack. Just wanted an opinion about those fittings being my trouble since I can’t run it right now. Not even on the muffs because I had to move the boat over to our other lot because of a little fixing up we’re doing and have no water access . Like I said it’s been driving me crazy since I haven’t been able to run it to see. I have the silencer in my shop and had some time today to drill those holes and cleaned it up good. I’ll let you know when I’m ready to decarb so you can walk me through it. I want to do it when I’ll be able to take it to the water afterwards and run it good. Thanks again for your help and sharing your knowledge.
Those fittings where new. I know the male was OEM but I may have used an after market female that said it was for Yamaha and they didn’t get along and leaked. Now there are no leaks and the bulb primes up firm and stays that way for a while. I’ll be moving it back to the driveway in a day or so and fire it up. Im working out the better fitting of the boat on the trailer. As for the bearings I always keep them greased. They get a few pumps from the gun every trip to push out any water. I should have pulled the wheels when I first got the rig and checked them. I let the motor keep me occupied. These won’t be the first ones I’ve replaced so I got this unless I find the hub bad or the worst would be the spindles. That’ll ruin your day. I want to get the rpms at wot without to many runs. The prop isn’t looking to healthy. Should I run the boat with a light load (just my gear) since this will be most of the time?
