Thermostat housing hole.

[Douglasdzaster]

It’s set on 3p1r as per the instructions. The cable is ran straight down the opposite side of the rest of the plug wires, and coils, and all other electrical. I had my worries about it being close to the fuel lines but wanted away from any other electrical stuff. Here’s a picture of the different settings. Which one do you think I should try to get my true readings?View attachment 336779

Got some answers from the company via Amazon. My engine has a coil for each cylinder rather than a central spark generation. So Im supposed to try different settings starting with a single and go up from there. I don’t know about these guys but I’m going fishing tomorrow so I’ll play with the settings while I’m at it.

 

[Sea Rider]

Some issues :

If the motor idles smooth and even with 1.5 pilot's screws out turns leave them there. This adjustment it's only for idle, has nothing to do when the throttle passes idle setting and the motor starts working with the carb's high jets which are fixed, there's nothing to just.

Don't know if that hard kick could be due to the midle carb runs a slight larger jet than previous one which wasn't available, try lessening a bit just the middle carb's pilot screw.

Regarding the induction tach installed :
Route the pick up wire straight from where you've installed it to the upper cylinder's spark plug, wrap it at least with min 4 tight turns.

If that motor fires 1 spark per revolution, should be adjusted to 3P1R, 3 sparks per revolution, if the display reads half of the idle or wot rpm, try the 1P1R upper setting, if reads the same as the first setting, the tach it's not compatible for your motor.

Happy Boating​

 

[Sea Rider]

Got another question. I premix my 2 cycle fuel and I’ve been using Lucas semisynthetic in this older engine. How does it compare or what’s y’all’s opinion on it vs other brands?

As long the 2 stroke oil used is TC-W3 the motor won't care which brand or oil type such as mineral, semi synthetic of fully synthetic you buy. As the oil gets more exquisite, the more it will cost. Mix 50:1 fuel/oil ratio. Don't need to try all the tach settings, just the last 2 recommended.

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

As long the 2 stroke oil used is TC-W3 the motor won't care which brand or oil type such as mineral, semi synthetic of fully synthetic you buy. As the oil gets more exquisite, the more it will cost. Mix 50:1 fuel/oil ratio. Don't need to try all the tach settings, just the last 2 recommended.

Happy Boating​

It was so windy today I was barely able to fish a little. I did try the 1p1r and it showed real high rpms. 3p1r is where I started and it seemed okay at idle but half wot. I was told it was because I have a separate coil for each cylinder. If I had the other type (forget what it’s called) basically a single coil then the tachometer would connect to that.And to try other settings. I agree with you it’s not compatible with my engine. I could probably still send it back but how do I know which is the correct one to get. Oh while on the lake today I was trying some drift fishing using the trolling motor for control. After about 30 minutes I noticed I had forgotten to turn off the fuel valve I installed because of the sorry EPA fuel tank. And it was swollen like it all ways does. I shut it off and fished another 30 minutes or so. Engine cranked and ran fine. When I got home however sure enough I had a little fuel residue under the cowling and traced it back to the #2 carburetor overflow. It wasn’t much but I noticed because I keep it spotless. Those fuel tanks do flood carburetors when they pressure up and it has no where to go.Until it reaches a certain psi then it relieves itself. Oh,I was so glad I had lowered the trim like you suggested. Today I had all my gear,ice chest, etc. enough weight to make up another person. I was in some rough water I had no business being in with a flat bottom. But was able to drive the boat through it. Forecast turned out to be way off on the wind today. Engine was acting a little strange. I was in gear idling toward the launch and it just picked up speed/rpms. Kind of scary. Luckily it wasn’t to fast I put it in neutral and it idled back down. I think it’s got a mind of it’s own sometimes. Still hard starting sometimes. I was offered help twice today before it started. Didn’t kick not once today like it was doing the other day. Thanks once again for your help and sharing your knowledge!

 

[Douglasdzaster]

It was so windy today I was barely able to fish a little. I did try the 1p1r and it showed real high rpms. 3p1r is where I started and it seemed okay at idle but half wot. I was told it was because I have a separate coil for each cylinder. If I had the other type (forget what it’s called) basically a single coil then the tachometer would connect to that.And to try other settings. I agree with you it’s not compatible with my engine. I could probably still send it back but how do I know which is the correct one to get. Oh while on the lake today I was trying some drift fishing using the trolling motor for control. After about 30 minutes I noticed I had forgotten to turn off the fuel valve I installed because of the sorry EPA fuel tank. And it was swollen like it all ways does. I shut it off and fished another 30 minutes or so. Engine cranked and ran fine. When I got home however sure enough I had a little fuel residue under the cowling and traced it back to the #2 carburetor overflow. It wasn’t much but I noticed because I keep it spotless. Those fuel tanks do flood carburetors when they pressure up and it has no where to go.Until it reaches a certain psi then it relieves itself. Oh,I was so glad I had lowered the trim like you suggested. Today I had all my gear,ice chest, etc. enough weight to make up another person. I was in some rough water I had no business being in with a flat bottom. But was able to drive the boat through it. Forecast turned out to be way off on the wind today. Engine was acting a little strange. I was in gear idling toward the launch and it just picked up speed/rpms. Kind of scary. Luckily it wasn’t to fast I put it in neutral and it idled back down. I think it’s got a mind of it’s own sometimes. Still hard starting sometimes. I was offered help twice today before it started. Didn’t kick not once today like it was doing the other day. Thanks once again for your help and sharing your knowledge!

Think I just figured out the hard starting and erratic behavior. Ive got a 6.6 gallon fuel tank. The last time I bought fuel the gage was on half a tank. I added enough oil for 3 gallons but when I pumped the fuel it only held 2.5 so it’s been running with to much oil. Im thinking it’s pretty sensitive about the mixed fuel because that’s about the time I started having problems. I’ll get rid of the last few gallons and make a fresh batch and check or replace the spark plugs.

 

[Sea Rider]

What was the idle rpm reading while the tach was set to IPIR, if less than say 800-900 rpm the tach is reading as it should. Is it possible to use those PITA EPA fuel tanks with their caps not fully screwed it to avoid building too much internal tank's pressure ? The 50:1 fuel/oil ratio is 80 Mil per 3.80 gal. See if can get a glass lab continer with max 100 Mil markings. Add one full measure of oil, not a drop more for each gal of fuel. Check the spark plug's condition if all 3 have darkened same or not.

Neutral trim with deck load well distributed works very well and combo shhould plane real fast when at full grip. Once at plane on flat calm water cond can you visually check between which of boh plates is the water flow passing by with same neutral trim, just to know how well is the motor height matched to the transom.

As you don't know the real use the previous owner has given the engine, if liked to fish, troll a lot, running at reduced throttle all of which carbons up any 2 stroke the motor will highly recommend going for a CRC long decarbon process, for that will need to remove the tall carb's silencer, drill 3 small holes as explained before. That way won't need to remove the air silencer on next decarbon process. The motor will run much smoother at idle and wot.

Happy Boating

​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

What was the idle rpm reading while the tach was set to IPIR, if less than say 800-900 rpm the tach is reading as it should. Is it possible to use those PITA EPA fuel tanks with their caps not fully screwed it to avoid building too much internal tank's pressure ? The 50:1 fuel/oil ratio is 80 Mil per 3.80 gal. See if can get a glass lab continer with max 100 Mil markings. Add one full measure of oil, not a drop more for each gal of fuel. Check the spark plug's condition if all 3 have darkened same or not.

Neutral trim with deck load well distributed works very well and combo shhould plane real fast when at full grip. Once at plane on flat calm water cond can you visually check between which of boh plates is the water flow passing by with same neutral trim, just to know how well is the motor height matched to the transom.

As you don't know the real use the previous owner has given the engine, if liked to fish, troll a lot, running at reduced throttle all of which carbons up any 2 stroke the motor will highly recommend going for a CRC long decarbon process, for that will need to remove the tall carb's silencer, drill 3 small holes as explained before. That way won't need to remove the air silencer on next decarbon process. The motor will run much smoother at idle and wot.

Happy Boating

​

I don’t remember the numbers but at 1P1R I do remember it was way up there. I have a measuring cup I only use for the oil. I added the oil before the fuel so it would mix better. The fuel tank would leak without the cap clicked into place unless it’s almost empty. Atwood is the only one that makes what’s called a fuel demand valve just for these tanks and they have bad reviews. I’ve got a can of CRC that I ordered just haven’t used it yet. Are the directions on the can or do you suggest differently?It did plan out quick. But when it’s just me and the fuel tank I like the upper setting. It plans out quick and I get a smoother ride. It gets on top of the waves more. And most of the boats out of the water while running on plan so it’s faster. But add a little weight and all that’s over with. The prop will ventilate if the weight is to far forward or if the weight is farther back it plans out slow then ventilate. Lol

 

[Sea Rider]

The purpose of the tach is to check if current prop is working properly running inside its min-max wot rpm range factory stated. Next time out check the idle and wot rpm with tach set to 1P1R and report. If reads half need to mentally double the reading, if reads double at idle not an issue but at wot the tach will probably locks itself in 8000 revs which it's the max that will read according to the manufacturer's tech specs.

Let me know when the 3 air silencer's orifices have been drilled to go for the CRC decarboning process in a much better way than what the can calls for. Remove the air silencer, don't want plastic particles going inside carbs when drilling with silencer attached. Mix the oil on top the fuel, shake the tank sideway for some seconds to mix both well, not the other way around. From where does the tank leaks even with cap removed or not fully screwed in ?

With respect to the trim settings, does the motor sits flat on transom or sits with X number of raised notches ?

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

The purpose of the tach is to check if current prop is working properly running inside its min-max wot rpm range factory stated. Next time out check the idle and wot rpm with tach set to 1P1R and report. If reads half need to mentally double the reading, if reads double at idle not an issue but at wot the tach will probably locks itself in 8000 revs which it's the max that will read according to the manufacturer's tech specs.

Let me know when the 3 air silencer's orifices have been drilled to go for the CRC decarboning process in a much better way than what the can calls for. Remove the air silencer, don't want plastic particles going inside carbs when drilling with silencer attached. Mix the oil on top the fuel, shake the tank sideway for some seconds to mix both well, not the other way around. From where does the tank leaks even with cap removed or not fully screwed in ?

With respect to the trim settings, does the motor sits flat on transom or sits with X number of raised notches ?

Happy Boating​

When the tank finally vents its self after swelling up like a pumpkin, it leaves heavy fuel residue around the cap. If I crack the cap open I think it would leak . I haven’t tried it. The valve I installed seems to be working as long as I remember to shut it when not running the motor. While working on the trailer today I smelled fuel. I said oh heck no(except in true Texas fashion). If those carburetors were leaking I was going to light a match. It wasn’t the carburetors and I couldn’t find the leak under the cowling so I hooked the tank up and pump the bulb a little so I could find the leak. I noticed it wasn’t priming. Didn’t seem to get as tight as it should the other day either. I found the fittings going into the motor leaking and sucking air when I pumped. I took the one off the hose and no fuel. So I held the line and pumped the bulb a few times and fuel shot out. It was those new fittings. I installed the old ones and it primed up good and tight with 3 pumps and stayed primed. I think I just fixed my hard starting, running rough etc. hopefully anyway. I’m going to run it as soon as I can. I’m still going to decarb the engine. There’s not a chance it could harm anything is it? The Admiral has cut my boat budget for the time being. Lol It’s a short shaft motor. The transom has actually been notched for it to sit as far down as it does. No way to get it any lower and it’s clamped on. If I drilled holes for it I could technically raise it but it sits pretty shallow now. At wot there’s water barley going over the cavitation plate. I’ll let you know when I get those holes drilled. Am I going to need to replace the spark plugs after the decarboning? I still haven’t checked the ones that are in it. Been busy working on the trailer which was doing some damage to the boat. I’m having to add a cross bunk and bow roller for more support. The trailer is actually a little small for the boat which I hadn’t noticed until now. Always having trouble launching so I’m fixing that problem.

 

[Faztbullet]

At wot there’s water barley going over the cavitation plate

 

[Faztbullet]

That a good setting height

 

[Sea Rider]

Some issues,

Need to fully solve the fuel related issues, can you find a second hand fuel tank with traditional vented upper fuel cap ? When the combo runs with trim set at neutral independently if sits slight less or more than 90 deg with deck load well distributed, does the prop aerates ? what about at tight close turns at speed, at Non Flat water conditions, does the prop aerates more ?

So the boat had a long shaft transom for a long shaft motor use and was lowered to use a short shaft motor. Who did the transom mod, the previous owner or yourself ? For clarification, can you post a pic shot from inside the boat showing how the motor sits and bolts on transson while at 90 deg ?

Been using CRC liquid gold decarbonizer in a can for years now.. That's what your motor needs to run much smoother as assume that never before has been decarbonized by previous owner. No need to install new saprk plugs, current ones have very few run hours from out of the box, can clean brushing them off with a hard toothbrush soaked in paint thinner for at least 2-3 times in a row.

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

That a good setting height

Good hole shot for a flat bottom. Prop hooks up quick.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Some issues,

Need to fully solve the fuel related issues, can you find a second hand fuel tank with traditional vented upper fuel cap ? When the combo runs with trim set at neutral independently if sits slight less or more than 90 deg with deck load well distributed, does the prop aerates ? what about at tight close turns at speed, at Non Flat water conditions, does the prop aerates more ?

So the boat had a long shaft transom for a long shaft motor use and was lowered to use a short shaft motor. Who did the transom mod, the previous owner or yourself ? For clarification, can you post a pic shot from inside the boat showing how the motor sits and bolts on transson while at 90 deg ?

Been using CRC liquid gold decarbonizer in a can for years now.. That's what your motor needs to run much smoother as assume that never before has been decarbonized by previous owner. No need to install new saprk plugs, current ones have very few run hours from out of the box, can clean brushing them off with a hard toothbrush soaked in paint thinner for at least 2-3 times in a row.

Happy Boating​

It’s only done it a couple of times. Once when I had moved the wife all the way to the front. Boat wasn’t running as good then and it’s only happened with the trim all the way up. I haven’t mad any really tight turns at wot with the trim up. The boats kind of skimming across the water. Crab walked a little once and I had to steer through it. All when it was just me and trimmed up. It’s never ventilated then either without the load. I can drop it down one notch which tucks it under just a bit past 90 degrees. Then I can position a load or do whatever I want and have better control just not as fast and it rides rougher because more of the boat is in the water. I’ll have to get you the pictures.
No one is turning loose of the older style tanks. My other option is to put a fuel demand valve inline in front of the tank. They’re made just for the new tanks only letting fuel pass when the motor (fuel pump) is requiring it. The reason I opted for another solution is Attwood is the only one that has fuel demand valves and I’ve seen a lot of bad reviews. So I put a good brass valve going into the fuel water separator that also avoids another splice in the line. I just have to remember to use it when I stop to fish. It’s holding its prime better than ever after fixing the leak. No telling how long or when those fittings started to leak. I need to start it and see how it idles since I fiddled with everything . I’m excited. I hope it starts first pull. That last trip to the lake wore me out pulling. Lol

 

[Sea Rider]

The Guide to Perfect Boating handles these tech aspects : Motor Health, Motor Decarbon, Motor/Transom Optimization, Prop Maximization with Tach. Decarboning is next to follow. If you need to run the combo way trimed up for the prop not to aerate your boat has an awfull motor/transom match. Being a manual trim system the boat needs to run near parallel to the water surface with trim set at 90 and not play varying trim settings depending on hull load, passengers. That was explained with drawings in previous posts.

OTOH, a boat running with most of the hull out of the water will achieve a slight more top end speed than if runing paralell to the water surface, but a prop mximization generally to a less pitch prop will cure it provided that the motor sits way down on transom for the blades to rev at a much higher water level and better the overall prop thrust.

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

The Guide to Perfect Boating handles these tech aspects : Motor Health, Motor Decarbon, Motor/Transom Optimization, Prop Maximization with Tach. Decarboning is next to follow. If you need to run the combo way trimed up for the prop not to aerate your boat has an awfull motor/transom match. Being a manual trim system the boat needs to run near parallel to the water surface with trim set at 90 and not play varying trim settings depending on hull load, passengers. That was explained with drawings in previous posts.

OTOH, a boat running with most of the hull out of the water will achieve a slight more top end speed than if runing paralell to the water surface, but a prop mximization generally to a less pitch prop will cure it provided that the motor sits way down on transom for the blades to rev at a much higher water level and better the overall prop thrust.

Happy Boating​

I owned and operated several Triton bass boats. All with hydraulic trim. I was spoiled to the big fuel injected motors with 12” jack plates and doing 80-85 mph. 92 was my fastes with gps. This is my first boat with manual trim as well as a Jon boat. And it’s a different world for me. With the motor trimmed all the way up it has only aerated when I added weight and put it at the bow , also more weight will slow the hole shot in this position. Without the weight it’s a great hole shot and runs parallel.
With it trimmed down it’s a better load carrier and gives better hole shot just not as much top end. And a rougher ride in waves. I need to look at it from the dock instead of on the trailer and see if she’s sitting 90 degrees. I haven’t had a chance to get you those pictures yet. I wish they hadn’t cut out the transom and used a jack plate instead and mounted it low on the transom maybe. I do know it was used a lot with a jet drive for the lower unit instead of a prop.
Reproping the boat may be difficult. I can’t find any markings on the prop as par as size or pitch. There was a stainless steel prop in the dry storage that’s definitely been reworked at one point. It has an X stamped over the 21pitch and a 14 stamped under it. That’s a drastic change in pitch. But the hub is spun so I can’t try it. It has the name Lochridge stamped on it as well which I can’t tie in with any prop company.

 

[Sea Rider]

Have newer owned an hydraulic trim motor, all have been manual ones and know what works spot on and what doesn't. Not all boat's transom's borders angles are set flat at 190 deg that's why a motor will never sit at 90 deg if this scenario applies. no issues having tad more or tad less degs. The transom's border angle will vary depending on the boat's manufacturer as well as the swivel's bracket holes distances each motor manufacturer wants to play with. The goal is to make a perfect marriage between both...​

Chopping transoms down and angle them right it's an art. 90 deg trim is usually achieved at 2-3 holes out transom.



Float the combo and adjust the trim for the Yam logo to sit parallel to the water level.

Happy Boating​

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Been busy and had to pull off the boat awhile. Missed a couple of good calm days too when I should have been on the water. But life happens. Here’s a couple of pics of the hack job done on my transom. But it runs good where she sits. I’ll be cleaning it up ,sealing/ painting it soon. Probably replacing it in a year or close to it. You can see how it sits in the back. Like I said at wot I can look back and see the cavitation plate just barely under water. I removed the lock covering the clamps so you could see those as well.

 

[Faztbullet]

Yer good...I would at least put a couple of bolts thru the clamps to mount it to hull

 

[Sea Rider]

Welcome back Doug, thought that were long vacationing at Easter Island LOL!! Was the transom height a XL size to match a L shaft motor ? Who chopped the transom down, the horizontal cut looks very uneven. What do you plan doing as not to move the trim setting when solo boating and boating with the Admiral ?

Happy Boating​