The Paint Thread

[Greg Mrozinski]

Re: The Paint Thread

Yes you can patch perfection..Tape off the area you want to patch..lay the tape at a 45 degree angle........../bad area/......... Now use 3m fine line tape and paint....remove the tape....now tape up the line you made >/< make that small as you can..Take 600 grit and sand the line off gently...take a buffer and buff.

It wont be dead perfect but it will be extremely hard to notice...Do this within 24-36 hours..The paint is still soft and will be eaiser to sand and polish..Remeber that tape line you created is a hair line imperfection and it doesnt take much to remove it...Now After perfection drys hard..Yes it can be buffed but its not to my liking.

Gunner,

Thanks for the helpful info. I will try what you recommend.

 

[ajgraz]

Re: The Paint Thread

Polls like this are always tough. I mean come on, I prefer Cadillacs but I can only afford Chevys. I would prefer to live closer to the beach, but I can only afford 15 miles from the coast.

For my current project, I chose Rustoleum Marine and foam rollers, because:
a) That's what this boat is worth.
b) I'm planning to sell it in two or three years.

 

[drewpster]

Re: The Paint Thread

I absolutely agree that for DIY paint jobs the cost of the project is a major concern. I have noted throughout my tri-hull project that my objective was to learn as much as I can about doing marine finishing work using paint. To meet that end I wanted to use a high end process that I determined to be as close to a professional paint system as I can possibly afford.
I found in my research that there is basically one paint system that the majority marine finishers use to paint high end yachts for jet set pleasure boaters....Awlgrip. There are several topside paint systems offered under the Awlgrip name. While it is certain that Awlgrip offers a superior finish, it also requires specialized equipment and the experience to use it. I knew from the very beginning that doing this would require an investment. In the end, I could not justify the expense of the spray equipment needed to get it done.
I also realize that having the tools to do the job does not mean I will know how to use them to get the best result.
Interlux products are designed for DIY painters. While the components are expensive, the process to apply them is simple and cheap. I found that even with simple tools there is definitely a technique to applying the paint. Imagine how difficult it would be to learn to apply a paint system using more complicated equipment with very little experience. While you cannot apply Perfection or Brightside as easily as latex house paint, at very least, I have the experience of using a roller and a brush. The system appealed to me because Interlux offers a professional-like finish without the need for a $1000 compressor. Both Perfection and Brightside yield great result. I am very happy with what I have been able to achieve with them using common tools. However I respect that the ability to get even better, show quality, results lies in a professional painter's experience. And I bet all of them use spray equipment and paint booths to get it.
I wrote before that I have no experience using Rustoleum marine paints. I do however have experience using other paints made by Rustoleum. I have used them to paint trailers and equipment in the past and I found them to be very good. My decision to go with Interlux is very simple. Awlgrip makes Interlux. Being that Awlgrip is widely accepted as the industry standard in marine finishes it seems logical to go with the industry standard in DIY marine finishes. The mechanic I am dictates using the right tool for the job. I feel confident that I did that. Rustoleum is a good product. Many restorers here have used it with great results. Its lower cost is very appealing, and I am sure to give it a try in the future.
The bottom line in my opinion is that you need to select a marine paint system that suits your needs. If you are a backyard bodyman with a good gun and some experience using it, Awlgrip is a good choice. If you are a master at making momma happy after the third color choice in the den, Interlux may be the way to go. If you are more interested in sending your kids to college than spending the savings on a 30 year old boat, Rustoleum is certainly a responsible choice. And don?t forget there are many other choices from companies offering marine paints. Anyone of them can make your tub in to a show boat. The hardest part is getting started.

enjoy
drewp

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: The Paint Thread

I've only used Interlux Brightsides paint so I can't say it's the best or not. The first time I painted my boat I first used Prekote which I found to go on quite thick. I rolled and tipped the paint, both the white and the ocean blue. This time around I thinned the Prekote before applying and found it to roll on quite smooth. I did however had to lay down three coats of primer with the white. Now, I also had and issue with the primer. The first quart had a little sludge on the bottom. I stirred it in the best I could. The second quart had a little skim on the top which stirred in okay but had a lot of sludge on the bottom. Probably close to 2 inches. I was not happy at all. However, I have a minimum of a 1 hour drive to the nearest marine store. I did write a nasty letter. Anyway, I used it anyway. I sanded between coats as well.

I used the Interlux Brightsides white on the cowl of my motor. I did thin the first two coats and wet sanded between coats. The third coat was not thinned and after I rolled and tipped it , I found that brush marks remained. I sanded it back down after drying and rolled and tipped using a foam brush. It still left brush looking marks. The last coat, after sanding I rolled on the white but did not tip it. It layed down perfectly and has a great shine and reflection.

I did the same with the boat. I rolled it on and did not tip and the paint layed down very nice. However, the blue was different. I also figured out why the bottom came out shinier and smoother than the sides. On the bottom I went with a 50/50 mix of paint and primer and thinned to around 10 percent. After applying the final paint coat I rolled and tipped and it turned out very nice. On the sides I did not mix the primer/paint. Just primer ,then paint but no tipping. I now regret that. Next spring I'll address, but for now, I will live with it.

I'm not sure why the white rolled on better than the blue, but it did.

For my roller I used only a professional grade 4" roller. I did try the dollar store brand and almost crapped when I saw the gazillion bubbles left behind. So spend a couple of dollars more for a good foam roller.

 

[Greg Mrozinski]

Re: The Paint Thread

I absolutely agree that for DIY paint jobs the cost of the project is a major concern. I have noted throughout my tri-hull project that my objective was to learn as much as I can about doing marine finishing work using paint. To meet that end I wanted to use a high end process that I determined to be as close to a professional paint system as I can possibly afford.
I found in my research that there is basically one paint system that the majority marine finishers use to paint high end yachts for jet set pleasure boaters....Awlgrip. There are several topside paint systems offered under the Awlgrip name. While it is certain that Awlgrip offers a superior finish, it also requires specialized equipment and the experience to use it. I knew from the very beginning that doing this would require an investment. In the end, I could not justify the expense of the spray equipment needed to get it done.
I also realize that having the tools to do the job does not mean I will know how to use them to get the best result.
Interlux products are designed for DIY painters. While the components are expensive, the process to apply them is simple and cheap. I found that even with simple tools there is definitely a technique to applying the paint. Imagine how difficult it would be to learn to apply a paint system using more complicated equipment with very little experience. While you cannot apply Perfection or Brightside as easily as latex house paint, at very least, I have the experience of using a roller and a brush. The system appealed to me because Interlux offers a professional-like finish without the need for a $1000 compressor. Both Perfection and Brightside yield great result. I am very happy with what I have been able to achieve with them using common tools. However I respect that the ability to get even better, show quality, results lies in a professional painter's experience. And I bet all of them use spray equipment and paint booths to get it.
I wrote before that I have no experience using Rustoleum marine paints. I do however have experience using other paints made by Rustoleum. I have used them to paint trailers and equipment in the past and I found them to be very good. My decision to go with Interlux is very simple. Awlgrip makes Interlux. Being that Awlgrip is widely accepted as the industry standard in marine finishes it seems logical to go with the industry standard in DIY marine finishes. The mechanic I am dictates using the right tool for the job. I feel confident that I did that. Rustoleum is a good product. Many restorers here have used it with great results. Its lower cost is very appealing, and I am sure to give it a try in the future.
The bottom line in my opinion is that you need to select a marine paint system that suits your needs. If you are a backyard bodyman with a good gun and some experience using it, Awlgrip is a good choice. If you are a master at making momma happy after the third color choice in the den, Interlux may be the way to go. If you are more interested in sending your kids to college than spending the savings on a 30 year old boat, Rustoleum is certainly a responsible choice. And don?t forget there are many other choices from companies offering marine paints. Anyone of them can make your tub in to a show boat. The hardest part is getting started.

enjoy
drewp

Well put drew!

 

[sschefer]

Re: The Paint Thread

I used Interlux products on my tinny. Perfection on the interior and sides and VC on the bottom. The prep work is no greater job than you would do if you used cheap paint.

The exception is the longevity of the Interlux products. Buy cheap and do it every other year or so or buy good and not worry about it for a long time. I suspect the cost averages out at some point.

Day 1 -

2 Years later -

Hard to argue with that..

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: The Paint Thread

I used Interlux Brightsides on my tri hull with great results. If you trailer your boat you can use it on the bottom as well. If you leave your boat sitting in water, you will need a good bottom paint...good luck.

 

[rfdfirecaptain]

Re: The Paint Thread

Doc,

I'm going to send you a private message. Please let me know if you do not accept them. I don't want to clog up this thread about "paint preferences" with questions about my boat.

 

[redfury]

Re: The Paint Thread

Imron USED to be a tough as nails paint. I've seen stuff painted with it 20 years ago and it looks no worse for the wear. The problem is, that was 20 years ago....the EPA and OSHA have certainly done their part to alter what was once a superior product and given paint manufacturers a tough time keeping up with the quality that they used to have.

 

[chrisp929]

Re: The Paint Thread

Hello,

I'm restoring a 1977 14' Starcraft Holiday. I have been reading for ever and a day about different paints. I do not want to spend a lot of money on paint. To me hardness and a fast cure are important to me.
I have read a lot about the rustoleum top side marine paint .. its either that or interlux i guess .. but thats for the top of the boat . gunwhales . interior etc ...

How about directing me to a similarly good paint for the bottom of my boat .. can i use the rustoleum and interlux for the aluminum hull also or do i need something else ?

 

[sschefer]

Re: The Paint Thread

Interlux VC is the only paint out there that is trailer rated and will allow you to leave your boat in the water indefinitely. Most paints max out at 72 hours and some are less.

You may be saying to yourself that you only leave your boat in the water for a day at a time but you need to stop and think about wet carpeted bunks laying against the hull.

Marine bunk carpet helps but during the winter, my bunks can stay wet for weeks at a time. I have no problem with the VC on my bottom.

Just something to think about. It's the old story, go cheap and worry or go with the better products and forget about it.

 

[redfury]

Re: The Paint Thread

I'm going to be looking for something like the VC you mention simply because of the blistering problem I have with my hull. I'll want a paint that is as resistant to moisture penetration as I can.

 

[metalwizard]

Re: The Paint Thread

YOu guys have talked about everything in the poll except Gelcoat.

By boat is Gelcoat on the bottom. (at least I am almost sure it is.)
Someone painted the thing, and its coming off. I am trying to decide what to do. at this point it looks like it will peel off pretty easy. But is sanding the old paint off a good Idea? or is there a chemical way to do it that wont destroy the gelcoat.

 

[sschefer]

Re: The Paint Thread

I think if you check closely you'll find that your entire boat is gel coated. It may have been painted over at some time but unless it was one of the very early years of fiberglass boats or possibly a garage built boat it will be entirely gell coated.

 

[metalwizard]

Re: The Paint Thread

Yeah I knew it was gel coated, I was just wonder how to get the old CRAPPY paint off the gelcoat.

Sandpaper? seems like it would remove the gelcoat too (some of it) or is that ok?

remember about 50% of the paint is already gone.

 

[Greg Mrozinski]

Re: The Paint Thread

Metal,

They make marine safe paint strippers that are similar to the ones you use for home projects. Slather on a thick paste of the stuff and let it site for several hours. Than come back and gently scrap it off with a plastic putty knife. It will not harm the gel coat underneath the paint being stripped. This method is probably the slowest when compared to sanding but definitely the best if you want to not harm the gel.

 

[drewpster]

Re: The Paint Thread

A word about strippers.
Be sure to read the labels. Some strippers are harmful to fiberglass and will damage gelcoat. I prefer Citristrip, but there are other strippers that will do the job and wont hurt gel. There are even some marine specific strippers. I have never had a need for marine strip.
A trick to using strippers is to keep the stipper wet and let it work. Some strippers recommend covering the stripper while it works to improve its staying power. I use a spray bottle with water while using citristrip. The idea is to give it a very light spray on the surface of the stripper to keep it from drying out. Avoid using too much water as this will dilute it.
Another trick is to avoid painting the stripper on the surface opposed to dabbing it on. Its seems like a small thing, but painting it on actually reduces the stripper's effect. I remember reading a really complicated chemical reason for this but i dont remember it now. And its probably pretty boring anyway.
Use a brush and dab, dont smear.

 

[sschefer]

Re: The Paint Thread

A word about strippers.
Be sure to read the labels. Some strippers are harmful to fiberglass and will damage gelcoat. I prefer Citristrip, but there are other strippers that will do the job and wont hurt gel. There are even some marine specific strippers. I have never had a need for marine strip.
A trick to using strippers is to keep the stipper wet and let it work. Some strippers recommend covering the stripper while it works to improve its staying power. I use a spray bottle with water while using citristrip. The idea is to give it a very light spray on the surface of the stripper to keep it from drying out. Avoid using too much water as this will dilute it.
Another trick is to avoid painting the stripper on the surface opposed to dabbing it on. Its seems like a small thing, but painting it on actually reduces the stripper's effect. I remember reading a really complicated chemical reason for this but i dont remember it now. And its probably pretty boring anyway.
Use a brush and dab, dont smear.

Very good point. West Marine sells a stripper for fiberglass that says it won't harm the gel coat but it also says to test it on an inconspicous spot first.. Where the heck that spot is I dunno but it tells me they don't trust their own product.

I agree, stick with the citrus strippers I use them also. I also use some of the Eastwood stripper products that are much more environmentally friendly. Of course there was that time that I grabbed a can of MEK by mistake and melted down a 1000.00 engine cowling.

 

[Greg Mrozinski]

Re: The Paint Thread

I was referring to marine paint strippers for fiberglass boats.

 

[JSmitty]

Re: The Paint Thread

Keep in mind that I painted my boat in an uncontrolled environment (i.e., outside). A controlled environment may be different.

I used Pettit EasyPoxy.

It sanded well after 24 hours, but was hard as a rock after a week and much harder to sand.

I rolled with a high-density foam roller.

I couldn't make it work with roll & tip. It always left brush marks.

Roll & roll was much better, but still left slight orange peel. It flowed well on vertical surfaces. Even with 15-20% thinner it didn't sag. On horizontal surfaces it occasionally left a roller mark.

I sprayed some small areas with a Preval sprayer. This left heavy orange peel on some spots and not so heavy in others. The difference probably has to do with the amount of thinner.

After wet sanding and buffing the final result is great. Even the pro at my marina was impressed.

But rolling takes a LOT of work (the sanding between coats part anyway).

If I had to do it over again I'd spray with a good gun and compressor, and just let it tack up between coats, but I'd still use EasyPoxy.

In the following picture the part below the rub rail has been compounded and quickly wiped with a rag, but not yet polished. Above the rub rail has been wet sanded with 800 grit. I've since finished wet sanding and compounding the part above the rub rail, and it looks even better than below the rail. Can't wait till I wipe it all down and polish it.