Taurus PLY22 pistol

[WIMUSKY]

It appears way too many have the .223 confused with the .22 lr...which is what the OP was referring to. Yes they are both .22 caliber, but that is the end of any similarities. You want to get into a street fight with multiple shooters armed only with a .22 lr handgun? NOT ME! Not the way things are going in this country! And during three tours in S.E. Asia I never saw an enemy using a .22 LR!

I believe they do mean an actual .22lr. But I'm with you, I'll take a .223......

 

[thumpar]

I do remember a tactical match I once was engaged in. You had to run a course with an "assault rifle" and counter different bad guys AND good guys at varying ranges and positions as well. With the bad guys, you had to place two rounds in them. But not any of the good guys...of course. And this was timed as well.

So my turn comes up, I was using a Ruger Mini14 .223 cal rifle (didn't have any AR15's at that time). And I ran the course and was doing really well, even with the emptying one mag and replacing with another, that everybody has to do at their discretion running the course. And I got to the final stage and there was a bad guy with a hostage. I tapped two round in the bad guy and looked down range for any others. But I couldn't leave it at that. No I had to turn back and tapped two more rounds into the hostage. My only defense was, I thought I seen the hostage going for a gun. Of course that didn't help my score one little bit, even though I tried to explain the hostage was going for a gun. I guess two round in the hostage's head didn't help either! :sorry:

Nice try with that excuse. haha

 

[MTboatguy]

It appears way too many have the .223 confused with the .22 lr...which is what the OP was referring to. Yes they are both .22 caliber, but that is the end of any similarities. You want to get into a street fight with multiple shooters armed only with a .22 lr handgun? NOT ME! Not the way things are going in this country! And during three tours in S.E. Asia I never saw an enemy using a .22 LR!

.
Well I will take the .223 as well, but I will never discount the .22 LR, I have seen to many killed with that round over my almost 30 years in Central America and the Middle East.

 

[thumpar]

The .22LR is a pretty deadly round. With the standard .223 rounds they will just to through a person and unless you hit them right they survive. A .22LR will usually not exit the body and rattle around a little.

 

[gm280]

thumper, I do reload. And nearly everything I reload I use for hunting, target practice, plinking, and the usual basic fun shooting. But I will say that one day I was at the range with my younger son (an adult, just the younger one). And I was shooting .223 at a 12" by 12" by 1/2" solid steel gong at 100 yard range. I knew every time in squeezed the trigger the gong would resonate. So I was on target easily. However, I didn't know that I was literally punching holes through that 1/2" solid steel gong as well. And as we walked down range to examine our results, we both were amazed that we now owned a perforated gong. So never ever under estimate what any type ammo can do.

Another interesting ammo story. One day a friend of mine and I were talking ballistics. We did that many times both being into shooting in those earlier days. Well the subject came up about how far can a 22 long rifle rim fire round travel and what was the energy at long distances. So we devised a plan to buy a 3/4" (yes it was actually 3/4" at that time too) of 4' by 8' plywood, and set it up at a 1/4 mile distance. Then each of us would shoot a box full of 22's at it to see what happens. We used a deep in the woods shooting range that allowed such a setup. At 1/4 mile (1320 feet) we setup the plywood and walked the long way back to the shooting table.

Looking down range at that plywood was like seeing a postage stamp. It was that small. So we started shooting. Problem was we couldn't see if we were hitting that "postage stamp" of a target that far away. So we shot and raised the rifles up and down to hopefully get some rounds on to the plywood. Still not being able to see any hits, we emptied the boxes.

We walked down to the plywood, and to our total amazement, we actually hit the plywood with a lot of rounds. Way more then I would have bet. And even the ricocheted off the ground rounds went completely through that 3/4" plywood with ease. That did amaze me to no end. Even at 1/4 mile away, 22's totally penetrated the wood without any issue. So never ever think you can simply hide behind wood if somebody is shooting at you. Even at 1/4 mile away with a 22 firearm. You will loose. JMHO!

 

[WIMUSKY]

The .22LR is a pretty deadly round. With the standard .223 rounds they will just to through a person and unless you hit them right they survive. A .22LR will usually not exit the body and rattle around a little.

Using a deer as an example. Usually if you hit bone, the round can explode and you have lead going everywhere. Or, at least a few pieces...... I hit brush in front of a deer once and exploded the lead. It entered the deer like a high powered shotgun. I could stick my fist in the entry hole.....

For everyone, why don't we get away from examples on shooting people, please..........

Here's the original ?

"Anyone have a Taurus polymer 22 handgun?"

 

[NYBo]

No Title

The .22LR is a pretty deadly round. With the standard .223 rounds they will just to through a person and unless you hit them right they survive. A .22LR will usually not exit the body and rattle around a little.

Especially hollowpoints. (Do they still make them?)

How do you think would work for self-defense?

 

[gm280]

Especially hollowpoints. (Do they still make them?)

How do you think would work for self-defense?

Years ago I bought a "Hollow Pointer" for 22's. It is a specially made device the you chuck up in a drill (I used a drill press) and take this adapter and slide the 22 into it and push it into the drill section. It automatically stops at a certain depth preset when it was built. And I can tell you, you can easily make a box full of hollow points in mere minutes. And I also tested them on paper. Would you believe they grouped better then originals. I think they are still available if you do a little search for such an item. Why pay more for hollow points when you can make your own with any 22 round? I can also say, they work great on squirrels too! :thumb:

 

[MTboatguy]

Just did a quick search, seems to be quite a few different tools for making hollow points, found this one that will actually reshape .22 as well:

http://www.gunblast.com/Paco.htm

 

[WIMUSKY]

How do you think would work for self-defense?

Now we're talkin'. .45 or .36? Either/or that's a lot of lead.......

 

[gm280]

There are two main theories about how to stop a wild animal. You can translate these to self defense issues if you like.

First theory is from Elmer Keith. He was a huge pistol shooter and he states that very large diameter heavy bullets will stop a wild animal in it's track. If you know anything about reloading, you are probably familiar with Elmer Keith designed bullets and especially the 44 magnum bullets. Most notably the 250 grain Elmer Keith 44 mag bullet. I use that in my own 44 mag Ruger 7 1/2" Super Blackhawk and have taken a few nice deer with such.

Second theory is from Roy E Weatherby. Yes I am sure most have hear of Weatherly rifles. His idea was to use a lighter bullet at very high speeds. And if you know anything about his cartridge designs, you will see he applied a type of venture into the neck section of all his calibers. And if you ever shot a 300 Weatherby rifle, you would be impressed as well.

I actually use both concepts in different rifles and pistols. And of course both seem to support the inventor's ideas. For hunting pistols, I use Elmer Keith's ideas. For rifles, I usually go with Roy E. Weatherby's ideas. Haven't been disappointed yet.

If you are interested, search for their histories and read. Very good reads I have to say! JMHO!

 

[thumpar]

For large animals and for defense in the woods I like the heavy bullet idea on the pistol. Bullet design has a lot to do with it too. In this area we hunt mule deer. A good fast round works great if it opens up enough. My first was taken with a Nosler plastic tip in a .243 (in this state you have to use 6mm/.243 or bigger).

 

[MTboatguy]

My main hunting round for over 30 years now is a hand loaded custom developed Nosler 165 grain partition in the .270 caliber, I have never had to shoot an animal more than once with that round, I love the Nosler bullets and would recommend them to anyone, if you develop a load that works in your rifle, then there is no reason to change. I have 2 different .270 rifles and have developed loads for each one of them and they are spot on, accurate and have knock down power.

The next one I am going to work up is for my old Remington model 600 made in 1964, I will again, use the partition bullet and work into what shoots best in that rifle, which can be a real challenge as it only has a 18 barrel. It shoots great with the Nosler ballistic tip, but I want the partition bullet.

My .270's are a blast to shoot with the 110 grain speer hollow point round that I worked up, no recoil at all, and that sucker moves downrange as long as there is no real wind blowing, but it makes it a great little coyote and prairie dog round.

 

[NYBo]

Now we're talkin'. .45 or .36? Either/or that's a lot of lead.......

It's a peashooter, .31, 5-shot.

 

[thumpar]

My main hunting round for over 30 years now is a hand loaded custom developed Nosler 165 grain partition in the .270 caliber, I have never had to shoot an animal more than once with that round, I love the Nosler bullets and would recommend them to anyone, if you develop a load that works in your rifle, then there is no reason to change. I have 2 different .270 rifles and have developed loads for each one of them and they are spot on, accurate and have knock down power.

The next one I am going to work up is for my old Remington model 600 made in 1964, I will again, use the partition bullet and work into what shoots best in that rifle, which can be a real challenge as it only has a 18 barrel. It shoots great with the Nosler ballistic tip, but I want the partition bullet.

My .270's are a blast to shoot with the 110 grain speer hollow point round that I worked up, no recoil at all, and that sucker moves downrange as long as there is no real wind blowing, but it makes it a great little coyote and prairie dog round.

My dad dropped off all the family guns that included a Mauser action FN built .270 from the early 50s that was my Grandpa's. I have the dies, brass, primers and bullets but haven't reloaded for it. What powders do you use?

 

[MTboatguy]

My dad dropped off all the family guns that included a Mauser action FN built .270 from the early 50s that was my Grandpa's. I have the dies, brass, primers and bullets but haven't reloaded for it. What powders do you use?

My first .270 is a Mauser actioned Interarms Mark 10 rifle, I love that gun, got it at K-mart on a blue light special in 1973 for less than $150.00 and have carried that thing all over the world with me, my 2nd .270 is a pre 64 Winchester Model 70 that my Dad gave me several years ago, when he decided not to hunt any more.

On Powders the ones I have used is IMR 48XX I will have to dig out my reloading logs to see exactly what it was, but it always worked good for me.

 

[bigdee]

For everyone, why don't we get away from examples on shooting people, please..........

Here's the original ?

"Anyone have a Taurus polymer 22 handgun?"

That's ok there have been some interesting comments even if off topic. Update....took pistol (Taurus PLY22) to range and it jammed and FTF a number of times. Tried different ammo with no success. When I got home I examined the gun closely and found some plastic (polymer) flash that was interfering with the slide. I trimmed it off and fired 2 magazines through it without issue. I am going outside right now to fire 100 rounds to make sure that was the culprit.

 

[gm280]

thumper, in that size caliber, a lot of powders are useable. Anything from IMR 4320, or IMR 4064 to an all time favorite of IMR 4350 are some good choices. Even IMR 4831 if you are going to the heavier side of the bullet weight range. But buy or research the proper powders AND weights needed for it. And start in the low end of the ranges and work up for both accuracy and pressure signs. Never go straight to the max loads listed in any reloading manual. You have no idea if the chosen components are all compatible with what they used and therefore could get extremely high internal pressures that could damage the gun and you. So work up the loads a little at a time and enjoy.

 

[dwco5051]

That's ok there have been some interesting comments even if off topic. Update....took pistol (Taurus PLY22) to range and it jammed and FTF a number of times. Tried different ammo with no success. When I got home I examined the gun closely and found some plastic (polymer) flash that was interfering with the slide. I trimmed it off and fired 2 magazines through it without issue. I am going outside right now to fire 100 rounds to make sure that was the culprit.

Some years back I got a good deal on a couple of bricks of Remington 22 target ammo. I was shooting one night a week in competition at he club and had several misfires with it. Found out from the other shooters that my S&W along with the High Standards seem to have a lighter pin strike and that is common with Remington ammo. The guys shooting Rugers and Colts said I could give it to them as they seem to run well on any ammo. Needless to say I did not give it away and still have a couple of boxes left. It shoots well in rifles and my 22 revolvers I carry to dispatch trapped critters. Went back to CCI in my target gun and have never had a problem after that.

 

[thumpar]

thumper, in that size caliber, a lot of powders are useable. Anything from IMR 4320, or IMR 4064 to an all time favorite of IMR 4350 are some good choices. Even IMR 4831 if you are going to the heavier side of the bullet weight range. But buy or research the proper powders AND weights needed for it. And start in the low end of the ranges and work up for both accuracy and pressure signs. Never go straight to the max loads listed in any reloading manual. You have no idea if the chosen components are all compatible with what they used and therefore could get extremely high internal pressures that could damage the gun and you. So work up the loads a little at a time and enjoy.

Yea, I understand working up a load. I reload for .223, 9mm and .40. I am setup to reload 30-30 and .270 also I just haven't yet because I don't shoot it enough. The lee book has the recommended loads I was just looking for what seems to work best.