Stuck Transom Wood

[matt167]

I think going forward with this boat with the transom already cut off. The safest way would be to cut it the rest of the way off and just build back with new. Leave a tab of what is left for the plywood to ‘catch’. The inner transom skin is what is usually removed vs the outer skin. Removing the inner skin will get the transom outa the way. There is no real good way right now as it was cut wrong. The entire rear should have been cut out if that was the chosen way Not just a hole. That way the original skin could have been re bonded and glassed in from the outside ( not ideal but it’s done that way sometimes)

 

[cyclops222]

I keep forgetting there is only 1 way to anything. Your way.
I redesigned old production machines to compete competitively with new cheap short lived ones. Always had more than 2 ways to get the job done correctly. Also did it so any failure could always be returned to original productivity.

 

[matt167]

I keep forgetting there is only 1 way to anything. Your way.
I redesigned old production machines to compete competitively with new cheap short lived ones. Always had more than 2 ways to get the job done correctly. Also did it so any failure could always be returned to original productivity.

Actually. I did suggest that removing the transom skin, as he did, while not generally regarded as the best way to do it, it is done enough to know that it does work.

The biggest failure in the way you suggest is not prepping the old fiberglass for adhesion. And probable issues with moisture. It doesn’t matter whose way you do it. If you skip steps on prep or have moisture, it won’t adhere correctly causing a failed repair

 

[cyclops222]

What does prepping fiberglass have to do with building a cradle to prevent distorting the hull ? While replacing each floor stringer ? Or even the whole transom ? Cross braces are required if removing the transom completely.

 

[matt167]

What does prepping fiberglass have to do with building a cradle to prevent distorting the hull ? While replacing each floor stringer ? Or even the whole transom ? Cross braces are required if removing the transom completely.

DO NOT !!!!!!! grind any of the fiberglass surface !!!! That is ALL needed for support . Some hairy wood fibers are O K

You MUST MUST put wood braces across the hull top to keep the hull shape CORRECT !! No excuses are correct. To keep the bottom in correct shape. ONLY cut open and remove 1 floor beam at a time. COMPLETELY replace that beam & the glass cover of it.
Before starting another one. 1 at a time is best. WE have found wood center keel first or last made no difference.

I’m actually referring to where you specifically said not to grind ( prep ) the fiberglass, which will cause a failed repair.

If you do manage to do one stringer at a time. Let’s not forget that, you need to prep the entire area, and the surrounding wood and foam could/ would cause moisture issues with resin and bonding.. resin and fiberglass is not cheap. Wouldn’t make sense to half do it and chance the waste


I’m done arguing. Hopefully the OP gets some solid advice and continues forward

 

[Drivewayboater2]

The original poster hasn’t been back…. I think you scared him

 

[Chris1956]

I replaced the transom in my speedboat from the outside, as I did not want to separate the cap. The cap on that boat is real small and not real strong. Removing it would have meant some sort of lifting cradle and more hands to pull it off.

I did keep some of the transom near the gunwales to connect the new stuff to, and I did glass in some 2X2's on the deck, a 2X4 under the splashwell on the inside and 5/4X6s across the side seams so I could screw the new transom plywood to them until the glass cured. I clamped the top of the new plywood to the transom part of the cap. I used some staples to hold the exterior cloth to the new plywood, and gravity made it slip. The staples came out after the cure.

The only tricky part is trying to figure out how many layers of cloth you need to give on the outside, so it has the required strength. I have Merc V6 on it, and it has a large amount of power + torque.

You want to get all the old wood off any glass skin you want to keep. The glass needs to be sanded as well. The exterior glass layers need to be bonded to the old glass, so the old stuff needs to be ground at an angle to extend the adhesion zone to the new glass I also put a piece of saturated mat between the new plywood and the old skin, as well as a layer between the two plywood panels.