Stringer and deck replacement....

[GSX455]

You are using epoxy to seal your wood, I used that on mine stringers and transom. You may not be able to use 1708, because 1708 has a layer of CSM which has polyester binder, The epoxy may not wet the binder, and vice versa. General rule of thumb is epoxy might stick to polyester, but polyester will NEVER stick to epoxy. If you have epoxy sealed wood, you might need to use vinyl ester resin to stick to the polyester of your boat.

Good luck

 

[Sabin1269]

What would be a good option to wrap it in if I’m using epoxy to seal the wood? I was debating between using poly resin to do it and epoxy, leaning more towards epoxy since it’s tougher and would be subject to moisture and more load being the transom. If I use just 6 oz cloth would that be sufficient for a wrap rather than the 1708 then tab and layer the 1708 once is adhered to the transom?

 

[Sabin1269]

So I am going to put in a change to my last statement. After spending most of last night and this morning searching the internet for the right answer I think I've come up with my game plan. I already have a roll of 1708 and a roll of 6oz cloth and about 3 gallons of poly resin to start. I already glued the transom pieces together last night and am waiting for them to set before I sand the edges flat.

1) Seal the wood with polyester resin.
2) Wrap the transom in 6oz cloth and poly resin to try and waterproof it as much as I possibly can.
3) Once everything is set adhere the transom to the hull with either PL premium or make a batch of PB (IMO I think either would work well but am welcome to more seasoned advice on this)
4) 2 layers of 1708 over the transom after tabbing is complete
5) Possibly a layer of CSM over the 1708 to smooth it out.

I'm not too concerned with the total thickness since it's an outboard, either way it will be within 1/8" from the original.
This is more about what I have on hand to work with and what I think will be more compatable since I'm using 1708 for my stringers as well.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Doesn't look like a bad plan, to me. I would seriously consider using PB rather than PL Premium to attach the transom core to the hull. PL Premium will take some time to offgas as it cures, and during that time, you can tab or do any other fiberglass work around the transom. PB will cure quickly and you can move on and tab/cover the transom with glass right away. (I bet most fiberglass boats have the transoms set with PB from the factory.)

 

[Sabin1269]

I appreciate the advice. I have some 1/4' chop and fumed silica to thicken the resin. I wasn't sure on the strength of the PB made from poly but now that I think about it, it took me quite a bit of effort to get it all out even though the wood was rotten.

 

[Sabin1269]

Is PB made from Polyester Resin strong enough to bond the transom to the hull? I’ve read conflicting things on this with some people saying that it’s fine and other saying that Poly doesn’t have the structural strength for a good bond.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Oh yeah. It will bond. Just try getting a transom - even partially rotted - out of a boat after it's been PB'd in there! It's a job.

PB will do the trick and then some.

 

[Sabin1269]

So what I have now for resin is the Bondo Fiberglass Resin in the gallon can. I know it’s certainly not top tier as far as resins go but do you think it would be ok to move forward with it or should I get some better poly resin?

 

[kcassells]

Bondo really has no place on a boat. JMHO.

 

[Sabin1269]

kcassells that was what i was thinking last night and I'm glad I stopped before going any further. I found a Marine supply place right down the road that has everything I need including the unwaxed poly resin so I am stopping after work and getting 2 gallons to start along with a few other things but it is a much better quality

 

[kcassells]

Lock and load! And what Jas says above.
Regarding PL it takes awhile to cure/gas off. PIA cause you can't glass it till its cured. PB is a yupper. Get some cabosil for thickener. You will be making your own glue all day long.
You will also need chopped fiberglass. Necessary for strength with poly.
"

Aerosil-Cabosil​

[SIZE=-2]

(Fumed Silica) ( Aer-o-sil 200 )​

[/SIZE]
[SIZE=-1]

Thickening agent for epoxies, polyesters, and urethanes. Thicken resins to your own taste by adding varying amounts. Ideal for making adhesives and putties for gluing wood, fiberglass, stone, concrete, etc. However, adding this product will make the cured resin much more difficult to sand."​

[/SIZE]

1/4" Chopped Strand​

[SIZE=-1]

This material consists of 1/4" chopped fiberglass. Used to increase strength especially in tight corners. ​

[/SIZE]

 

[kcassells]

1708 for poly
1700 for epoxxxyyy
Start and finish the job with 1 not both. Epoxy will stick to poly. Poly won't stick to EEppoooxxxyy. :watermelon:

 

[Sabin1269]

kcassells I'm sticking with poly for the whole rebuild. Stopped at the supply store last night and picked up what I needed to get the transom in and start bedding stringers hopefully next week. Everything I already purchased is for poly anyways.

So far I made a resin/acetone mix last night and coated the bare transom with it several times, tonight I will lay some 6oz cloth on it to hopefully help with "waterproofing" then tomorrow is the big day to get the transom mounted and glued on!

 

[kcassells]

No need to thin w/acetone. Always fill voids, seal edges on all wood cuts.

 

[Sabin1269]

So an update on my rebuild. Got 2 pieces of ply and cut them out. Glued together with Titebond III and screwed to hold. Sanded them down, used poly resin to seal the bare wood and covered both sides and capped the edges with 1.5 CSM. Made a mean batch of PB and stuck that sucker to the hull and let it sit for like 3 days. Just got a chance to make some more PB and filleted all the edges. Gonna sand tomorrow and start tabbing with 1708. Thanks everyone for the advice so far it’s been huge. I’ll upload some pics tomorrow of my progress so far.

 

[Sabin1269]

Question about the wood for the stringers. I originally thought that they were made from 3/4" ply but after some investigation on the original ones that i pulled out i found that they are in fact regular 3/4" board. I'm assuming that it was either pine or spruce but I have no real way to tell what they were made from. So the question is, should I stick with the original build and go with solid board or would 3/4" ply be sufficient in its place?

 

[tpenfield]

You might be able to get board lumber in a longer length than plywood. So depends on the length you need. Neither way would be considered wrong.

 

[kcassells]

Nah.......forget the longer board stuff, $$$$. Not worth it.
Just make butt joints or add a bulkhead. It won't hurt anything but go with ply.

 

[kcassells]

You just scab 2 pcs of wood both/either side of the short pc. of ply @8" past center,PB, glass and move on.

 

[Sabin1269]

Here are some of my progress photos up to this point. Transom wrapped and glued and the tabbing done. I just put the first full sheet of 1708 on last night and will be doing a second one tonight, then gearing up for stringers.

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipOFIPICQ0U0hy_9M2Y2XC3bqGoTsoLCk4uRk9SQ